Ruben
Forum Replies Created
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I tried to edit, but it was too late. What I meant about emulsifying wax NF was other brands of e-wax
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@Bobzchemist. What is Polawax used for in cosmetic emulsions? Skin feel? texture? What about emulsifying wax NF?
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Did you use a hand mixer or a stick blender?
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For lotions, I let them cool to room temperature before bottling.
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If you plan to use it as an antioxidant I’d think you need the reduced form
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@Belassi. Good one
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I know this joke is getting old, but maybe it’s time for camel urine
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@Belassi Urea is a natural moisturizing factor that is part of the stratum corneum . Moisturizing factors are water soluble compounds, including amino acids, peptides, some organic acids, ions, urea, lactate, citrate, and sodium PCA (I may have forgotten some).
From the strictly moisturizing effect, if I would have to replace urea with something, I would go with either sodium PCA or sodium lactate. If I remember correctly lactate can make skin sensitive to sunlight so you want to limit to no more than 2 or 3%
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I think I answered my question to a large extent. I did a little bit of
digging and found that D5 has a boiling point of around 215oC. So it is
even less volatile than water. Still some evaporation at 80oC can be
expected if heated for a long time.Then I asked myself if the boiling point is so high, why it is claimed that the dry feel of cyclomethicone (D5) comes from its high volatility. I did a little bit more digging and found this interesting article.
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@laskedbetter
Is adding the volatile ingredients to the heated phase before heating and then replacing what has been lost a common practice in the industry? I assume that to do this you need to heat in closed vessels, don’t you?@CosChemFan
The evaporation problem is only with low molecular weight silicones, such as cyclomethicone and low MW dimethicone. Other silicones, for instance dimethicone 350, can be added directly to the heated phase. -
Interestingly, C&T published an article this month about preservatives that mentions something related to the initial concern I had when I stated this thread.
If you scroll down, under the title “Safe Preservation” the author talks about a “balancing act” between “preventing microbial growth” and avoiding problems to human skin.
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I just realized I didn’t say thank you. So, thank you for your comments. They will definitely help
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@Belassi. I don’t understand why you think that adding minerals to bottled water is wrong. Most bottled water is just municipal water that has been purified by R.O. and then some minerals are added back to make it taste like water again. I never seen a brand that claims R.O. water on the label. On the other hand, here in the US, there is a brand that bottles distilled water and I personally think it is undrinkable. Mineral and spring water are a different animal. They normally contain quite a bit of calcium and magnesium carbonates, but in general they are low in sodium.
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What is the source of placenta? Bovines?
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Thank you! Your answers really help
Since we are discussing preservatives, I have another question.
Liquid Germall Plus seems to be a very robust preservative and broadly used by hobbyist. However, I haven’t seen it in many commercial products. Actually I just saw one commercial gel preserved with Liquid Germall Plus.
I wonder if there is a reason for cosmetic companies not to use this preservative. -
I use mainly Optiphen Plus for creams, lotions, and gels.
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My point of minimizing the level of preservative is to reduce the risk of adverse skin reactions.
Especially when using airless bottles-which it seems to help to prevent product contamination- I though there was no need to go full blast with the preservative. But it seems the consensus is to use the maximum level suggested by the manufacturer -
http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Microbial-Test-Kit-Mikrocount-Combi-p/fss101.htm
Also Lotioncrafter offers one with their brand
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/microbial-test-kit-lotioncrafter.html
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How reliable are these test strips? Doesn’t the preservative inhibit the growth of microorganisms on the strips?
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Olive Oil Unsaponifiables contain between 15% and 25% squalene. Besides it is relatively cheap. It goes with the name “Planell Oil” also and is offered by Lonza.You can get small amounts from Lotioncrafter.Recently I started using Planell oil instead of “squalane”
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Also, Health Canada has a very detailed list of cosmetic claims. I don’t know how well these would apply to the US though.
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Thank you Perry.
It is unfortunate that it would be hard to sell anything without using “weasel words.” Maybe you could offer an online workshop a some point about how to write clever claims without getting in trouble. -
I am getting more and more confused about what can be said and what cannot.
There are some claims on well know companies’ websites that I would think are drug claims but apparently they are fine to be used in cosmetics. Here are some examples:“Vitamin C: Supports natural collagen production and contains antioxidant properties.”
“Stimulates collagen production without irritation“
“Strengthened by vitamin C, it calms, heals, brightens, and boosts collagen…“
“…this formula provides intense moisture and supports natural collagen production.“I’ll appreciate any comments.
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A cheap one http://handyfiller.com/
I don’t have any experience with this machine. I just saw it in other forum