remakeanddump
Forum Replies Created
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your stick structure is not good. Candelilla wax at 8% by itself will not form a hard enough stick. Cetearyl alcohol is not a good anhydrous stick structurant. with all the powders you have, you would need even more waxes. the harder you product, less product you will get on your face and less sticky it will be. remove cetearyl alcohol and olivem 900. add carnauba wax - forms pretty rigid structure, and beeswax or kester wax k-60P for plasticizing so the stick is not brittle.
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6% nonpolar oil without any other polar material will be hard to stabilize. I would mix it with some polar esters like caprylic/capric triglyceride. Can you use ethoxylated materials? If so, use glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate as an emulsifier with some thickeners like carbomer.
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If you aren’t sure of the safety level, google the ingredient + CIR safety to find out the safe use level determined by Cosmetic Ingredient Review. When I read through one of the reports deemed it safe for leave on’s at 0.0051-4%.
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You can try synthetic fluorphlogopite. Not too big of a particle size (glittery), not too small (too opaque).
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Have you tried solgaum gm?
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I would make the emulsion without sepigel 305 first. If the viscosity is thinner than benchmark, start adding sepigel 305 0.1% at a time. If it’s already too thick, reduce your oil phase and try again.
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Unless you have a good method that can be duplicated, I would suggest sending it out to an analytical testing lab to get the results. It’s less than $100 last time I checked.
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Have you tried volatile dimethicones like 1.5 cst or 2.0 cst?
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Euxyl PE 9010
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add more fragrance lol. what’s your current % of fragrance. based on lip smacker’s IL, i would guess they have fragrance in 3-5%, which is a lot.
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beeswax is not enough for hot temperature in transport. it’s probably melting in transport and resolidifying and changing the texture.
you need a higher melting point wax. what’s the melting point of your lip balm? you should also be testing the lip balm in final component in 50C.
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one of the big challenges you face as a formulator is scale up. you’ll run into issues you didn’t see in lab or smaller scale. for this formula, i suggest you change the wax structure of your lip balm. it’s good to have 3 waxes with different properties that you can tweak to get the desired result. for example, if you want something natural, i would do 3 waxes: carnauba wax or rice bran wax, candelilla wax, beeswax (if you don’t have to be vegan). you need a plasticizing wax like beeswax so it’s not too brittle. since you’re making a vegan lip balm, i would try the kester wax k-60p. fine tune the ratio to get the desired texture.
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octyldodecanol. you have to heat to 80-85C, sprinkle in ethyl cellulose and mix until it’s fully dispersed and forms a gel. then, add the rest of your oil phase as needed.
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25% carnauba wax is way too much - your stick will be too brittle and brick. you should start trying to build the structure from 5-6% carnauba, 5-6% candelila. can you not try kester wax k-60P/polyhydroxystearic acid? it’s naturally derived. you need something to help with flexibility. sunflower wax is more flexible than carnauba wax but it’s not as good in my experience in reducing brittleness. if you can’t do kester wax k-60p, try just candelilla and carnauba wax first. berry wax from kahlwax is also flexible.
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that explains it. the natural flavor oils aren’t as potent. they’re for the flavor, not really the odor. you have to use fragrance.