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  • Pharma

    Member
    July 28, 2019 at 3:21 pm in reply to: Was there something wrong with the preservative? Should I sue?

    Mortar and pestle are sufficient when mixing cream A with active B or when making old-school ointments which are usually of lamellar structure/high viscosity oil phase with fairly high amounts of wax, cetyl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, and/or hydrogenated peanut oil or contain solids such as zinc oxide. They’re useless for more up to date emulsions which require high shear or are of lower viscosity.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 28, 2019 at 9:08 am in reply to: Can I add royal jelly to a cosmetic formula

    Standard hydrolysed silk protein is made from what’s left after the cocoons have been used for harvesting silk. Notably, the cocoons are collected before the butterflies hatch so that one can obtain one single long fibre instead of chewed-through fragments. Hence, silk protein is often just the innermost layer of “filthy” silk plus the dried larvae which make up most of the weight. It should be called hydrolysed silk worm protein instead.

  • An IR spectrometer could also work ;) .
    But melting point is a reliable and comparatively inexpensive, simple and robust method. Optical rotation only works with few ingredients so does refractory index and both may not work regarding purity testing.
    TLC can be an option if you have the know how; it’s highly prone to handling errors and, though cheap and in theory simple, not to recommend for someone how has no or only basic TLC skills. A semi-automated HPTLC could be an alternative for these users but $$$.
  • Pharma

    Member
    July 28, 2019 at 6:49 am in reply to: Can I add royal jelly to a cosmetic formula

    @ngarayeva001 Very vegan? Should I now ask you whether or not you know how (or from what) exactly hydrolysed silk proteins are made? Sure, some producers do use silk as raw material…

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 27, 2019 at 8:00 pm in reply to: oil base Shampoo

    Interesting!

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 27, 2019 at 7:14 pm in reply to: Can I add royal jelly to a cosmetic formula
    Actually two things…
    it’s good for business too.
  • Pharma

    Member
    July 27, 2019 at 7:13 pm in reply to: oil base Shampoo

    That sounds more like an emulsion/cream than a shampoo.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 27, 2019 at 4:45 pm in reply to: shampoo has layer seperation in bottom in 2 days
    Isn’t AOS incompatible with polyquats?
    What’s DG?
  • Pharma

    Member
    July 27, 2019 at 4:42 pm in reply to: Vegetable Based Polymeer

    Is Lexfeel naturally derived?

    The LexFeel series is naturally derived ;) though not all LexFeels are polymers but rather (volatile) silicone oil replacements. I have no idea whether they work or not.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 27, 2019 at 4:33 pm in reply to: Was there something wrong with the preservative? Should I sue?

    Doreen said:

    …+ steel spatula and mortar cards?…

    Sure, those too =) . In many pharmacies, imagine that, jass cards cut into shape with scissors are still used like it’s been done 50 years ago.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 26, 2019 at 7:04 pm in reply to: Developing a toner

    …Can we use lactic acid instead of citric acid?

    Yes, you can.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 25, 2019 at 9:12 pm in reply to: Best stick mixer for making emulsions?

    @ngarayeva001 Could you elaborate on that “high viscosity” or do you have the link. IIRC I’m part of that group but I’m scarcely on FB and although I can take my laptop apart, reinstall hard- and software and probably do more than the ordinary user I’m astonishingly clumsy when it comes to properly using FB.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 25, 2019 at 6:54 pm in reply to: Best stick mixer for making emulsions?

    Sibech said:

    …DYNAMIX® DMX 160 blender / homogenizer

    I LOVE YOU!!! THAT’S WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!! <3 <3

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 25, 2019 at 6:53 pm in reply to: Best stick mixer for making emulsions?

    …It doesn’t have a monitor, but who needs it..

    You mean like THIS????

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 25, 2019 at 6:48 pm in reply to: What Ingredient is this?

    Sibech said:

    …Docosahexaenoic/Oleic Triglyceride for a fully substituted glycerol moiety or alternatively glyceryl docosahexaenoate/oleate for mixed monoesters rather than glyceryl tridocohexaenoate/oleate.

    There’s a clear difference between chemical and INCI nomenclature; I’m more comfortable with the former since there’s logic and rules behind it. The term triglyceride is usually used for unaltered oils whereas the latter is used in (semi-)synthetic glycerides e.g. ester oils wherein the alcohol moiety is glycerol. In case of triesters, the “tri” can but doesn’t need to be omitted for everyday purposes but not mentioning it would be inadequate from a hardcore chemical point of view. According to INCI, I don’t really know, I think the “tri” is not mentioned but on the other hand, cosmetic glyceryl monostearate is usually a mix of ~55% glyceryl distearate with only ~40% monostearate and the remaining % is tristearate and “stuff”. Sometimes (too often for my taste) INCI nomenclature is as bad as colloquial names.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 24, 2019 at 7:12 pm in reply to: What Ingredient is this?

    Docosahexanoic acid aka DHA is a trendy and healthy omega-3 fatty acid. Your ominous compound might be glyceryl tridocosahexanoate/oleate i.e. a triglyceride containing DHA and oleic acid at mixed ratios…

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 24, 2019 at 7:06 pm in reply to: Unpreserved aqueous solution

    pH 3.8 in the fridge: 3 days for use on healthy skin should be okay but it might depend on that mystery ingredient of yours ;) .

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 24, 2019 at 5:47 am in reply to: Fruit Puree Preservative

    THAT was my thought too! Alas, jam requires >40% sugar to be preserved. Some benzoic and sorbic acid might suffice to push it down to 20%?

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 23, 2019 at 8:59 pm in reply to: Was there something wrong with the preservative? Should I sue?

    Having a science background certainly helps understanding why things happen or don’t work out but cosmetic chemistry is most of all an empirical science, not an exact one. Having a degree in chemistry, pharmacy or whatever doesn’t make you a good formulator, let alone a good business man/woman (and, I speak from experience, it’s more likely to drive someone socially incompetent). There is no official degree or qualification for cosmetic chemists, it’s “just” a job/skill people have and that’s very hard to judge at a distance. These days, it’s often the ones with the most prominent internet presence  who get the most attention but that tells you only one thing and one thing only: They’re hanging out too much on the internet and might not have the time for formulating (reminds me that I should spend more time with my mortar and pestle :) ).

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 23, 2019 at 8:48 pm in reply to: Flavor & Fragrance in Liquid Lipstick

    What weird kind of arrangement do you have with your cosmetic chemist that he’s got a problem he can’t solve and when you try to help him out (he should pay YOU instead LoL), he tells you shit…

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 23, 2019 at 7:36 pm in reply to: Flavor & Fragrance in Liquid Lipstick
    An oil soluble natural sweetener? You sure? Cause AFAIK all natural sweeteners are highly water soluble. Probably you consider enoxolone (aka glycyrrhetic acid) a sweetener although it’s no longer sweet as compared to glycyrrhizin…
    But since you write in riddles I’m aouta here, sorry pal.
  • Pharma

    Member
    July 23, 2019 at 7:25 pm in reply to: Cetrimonium Bromide

    With cetrimonium it’s not mainly about the anionic counterpart but the QUAT itself. Sure, bromide (not bromine!) is less healthy than chloride but since you’re hopefully not going to eat it… besides, bromide QUATs are “softer” much like potassium soap is softer than sodium soap.

  • Pharma

    Member
    July 23, 2019 at 7:15 pm in reply to: Advice on my Lotion Formula
    @Belassi Jar already has phytate in it ;) .
    Why add silk amino acids to phase A and hydrolised rice protein to phase C? They’re both similar, aren’t they?
  • Pharma

    Member
    July 23, 2019 at 11:13 am in reply to: Fruit Puree Preservative
    Should it be edible or what’s the purpose of that puree?
  • Pharma

    Member
    July 23, 2019 at 6:29 am in reply to: Hair Styling Formulation - HELP

    Which quality of kaolin and bentonite did you use? Some grades are fairly coarse/grainy.

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