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  • Pharma

    Member
    January 17, 2020 at 8:38 pm in reply to: Shampoo separating with hydroxyethl cellulose
    pH 5.5 ain’t bad. I thought that maybe you’ve got something around 7 and hence the many preservatives (though some of which only work at <5.5).
    Personally, I wouldn’t feel comfortable with that many preservatives. The weakest but also most prone to irritation IMHO is the benzoate/sorbate mix. In addition to that, it’s the one which starts acting below your pH and hence, I would at least ditch that. If you should further decrease your preservatives, I honestly do not know. Keep phenoxyethanol and probably keep benzyl alcohol too but combine it with salicylic acid instead of dehydroacetic acid (but you’re using a blend, I suppose)?
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 17, 2020 at 8:09 pm in reply to: Butyl glycol isomers
    Uppps, I just realised that I wrote 1,3-botanediol instead of 1,3-butanediol ;( .
    I wouldn’t use either of the two.
    1,3-butanediol might work as nutrient supplement and sure, it does what similar compounds do but I’d rather go with one which also boosts preservation such as 1,2-penatanediol or similar real glycols.
    2-Butoxyethanol is not the most safe substance, has detergent properties but mostly serves as solvent or co-solvent and isn’t used for any skin care effects.
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 16, 2020 at 8:31 pm in reply to: Formulation types
    I’d go with the triethyl citrate version. I’m currently trying one instead of aluminium and so far, it’s the first one that works more or less. Before, I used 5 days aluminium and on week ends did detox (= nothing or “natural”), now with that triethyl citrate deo I go 5 days “natural” and 2 with aluminium and it’s about the same.
    Had only disappointing experiences with oil, absorbent, nothing of anything except perfume (“French washing” as we call it), and high pH deodorants, they usually worked for just 1-2 days (remember, after a few days on aluminium, I can go without any deo for 1-2 days :smiley: ).
    Worth mentioning is that triethyl citrate is low pH and maintaining a low, bacteria hostile environment (the product I’m currently using is somewhat irritating my skin similar to higher % aluminium chlorohydrate but not as bad as aluminium chloride). Alone, it doesn’t stop sweating but bacteria from producing *stink* and *reek*; that’s where sage extract comes into play.
    It’s not the only modern ingredient used to replace aluminium though I don’t know how well the others work nor if it’s as reliable as aluminium-based products…
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 16, 2020 at 8:10 pm in reply to: Can you tell the price of these ingredients?
    If I compare a 10 g package from a reseller or buying 10 kg directly, the price for those 1’000 times heavier package may be less than 100 times the price.
    There’s often a considerable drop in price per gram when going from 10 to 100 to 1’000 grams too.
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 16, 2020 at 8:05 pm in reply to: Cleaning/disinfecting labware
    I usually go overkill and use 30% in a spray bottle (and regularly have to evacuate the bathroom because air gets unbreathable). Not to recommend for the average (= non-suicidal) user.
    When there’s also limescale involved, I mix pure formic acid with 30% H2O2 which results in performic acid (cool name!), a very aggressive oxidating acid. Might actually remove old joint sealer too if you’re not careful. BTW, do that only with open windows and be prepared to RUN THE HELL OUTA THERE ;) .
    A more reasonable attempt would be 10% (3% won’t do much in time) on a piece of cloth or a sponge, rub it on and just leave it till dry. Ammonia 10% also works great for that black stuff but it stinks and I use it only on (ex-)white walls with acrylate based paint.
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 15, 2020 at 7:39 pm in reply to: Shampoo separating with hydroxyethl cellulose
    - Allantoin won’t do anything in a shampoo. If you want a product against dandruff and dry scalp, use it in a leaf-in product (0.1-0.5% is common).
    - If you use Dissolvine GL as a preservative booster & sequestrant, then 0.1% is all you need. More may help with better lather when dealing with hard water or when you use tap water instead of demineralised water in your product.
    - Fermented rice water… okay, I see why you go for that better safe than sorry option. What’s the pH of your shampoo?
    You’d have to challenge test your product to know if it’s good, too much or not enough ;) .
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 15, 2020 at 7:27 pm in reply to: Cleaning/disinfecting labware

    I use 70% iso at home and at work. Hydrogen peroxide is only for cleaning really nasty stuff like the black algae which form in the edges around the bathtub.

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 15, 2020 at 7:25 pm in reply to: My vanishing cream leaves sticky feeling 🙁 Please help!!

    If memory serves me right: Didn’t traditional vanishing creams use sodium stearate which forms special platelet-like crystals giving them the optical illusion of “vanishing” on the skin. Other stearate salts usually don’t do that and mixtures may or may not form such opaquefying (is that even a word?) crystals.

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 15, 2020 at 7:17 pm in reply to: Instruments for claim substantiation
    Maybe something like THAT? Sorry, can’t find the English version…
    If I had some money to spend on “cosmetics instruments”, I’d go with one of these. Alternatively, an FT-IR for quality control of bought ingredients especially if you’re buying from China or the like.
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 13, 2020 at 8:02 pm in reply to: Instruments for claim substantiation

    Fancy instrument to substantiate claims and be good for marketing? Seriously? Does that impress anyone except us geeks?

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 13, 2020 at 8:00 pm in reply to: Bitterness when scaling up
    With a quick ditch, mix, cheers I wouldn’t be astonished if it were
    particle size although a V blender is fairly gentle on particle size.
    On the other hand, did you check that the product was really homogeneously mixed in the V blender? They don’t seem super accurate to me… I may be completely wrong here, I admit (never worked with a V blender)!
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 13, 2020 at 7:54 pm in reply to: Cleaning/disinfecting labware
    Formaline is obsolete in many countries because, well, it’s formaline.
    For thorough disinfection, go with hydrogen peroxide which leaves no traces and won’t harm neither your health nor the environment.
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 13, 2020 at 7:52 pm in reply to: Shampoo separating with hydroxyethl cellulose
    Can’t tell you why ;( . But I have some questions, if you don’t mind me asking:
    Why allantoin and why so much? It won’t do anything in a shampoo (much like panthenol and glycerine, the herbals at least give the product some claim).
    Why so much Dissolvine GL?
    What is potassium airbags?
    Your product seems nearly over-preserved… do you really need that much?
    Why citric acid? Is it for pH adjustments (it’s probably not added as sequestrant since you already use Dissolvine)? What pH does your shampoo have?
    Why do you decided to go with HEC as a gelling agent?
    Did you try salt as thickener? From what I’ve heard, it sometimes works with SCI (and sometimes not). Or switch to sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate (or any other acyl methyl isethionate) which is said to thicken very well with salt or betaine and ditch HEC.
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 12, 2020 at 9:33 am in reply to: “Natural” chelating for moisturisers
    At lower pH, phytic acid works better than gluconic acid (the active form of gluconolactone). Citric acid can also be used but may not suffice if used alone.
    GLDA or MGDA would be very good, semi-synthetic, and easily biodegradable chelates.
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 11, 2020 at 6:19 pm in reply to: What’s wrong with our shampoo formulation?
    It seems to me that it contains an awful lot of polyquats and fragrance… really a lot of fragrance!
    Maybe add a silicone or fatty alcohol? But that’s just a wild guess, Perry and alike have way more experience and knowledge regarding shampoo than I will ever have ;) .
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 9, 2020 at 8:37 pm in reply to: Butyl glycol isomers
    These are two different chemicals, one is also known as ethylene glycol monobutyl ether (the correct chemical name would be 2-butoxyethan-1-ol but because it’s isomer 2-butoxyethan-2-ol isn’t stable, nobody uses the “-1-“) and the other ones correct name is 1,3-botanediol (it’s by definition not a glycol).
    The former is produced by treating butanol with ethylene oxide, a straight forward synthesis without isomer formation. The latter may be produced by different synthetic routes which may or may not result in by-product/isomer formation.
    BTW “pathway” is a term preferably used in biology/biosynthesis, not chemical synthesis i.e. metabolic pathways which most often don’t result in mixtures of structural isomers ;) .
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 9, 2020 at 8:17 pm in reply to: Bitterness when scaling up
    It’s probably particle size since caffeine and more so theacrine have a bitter taste and also creatine does taste slightly bitter. Especially caffeine and theacrine are not easily soluble in cold water and therefore, smaller particle size greatly increases speed of dissolution. A finer ground powder hence dissolves faster and therefore tastes more because only dissolved substance can be tasted.
    How is your blend prepared and consumed? I mean, does it have to be dissolved in water or fruit juice right before use?
    As challenge test: Dissolve each a hand made sample and a machine made one in hot water, stir until everything has dissolved, let cool to drinkable temps, and only then try both. Is there still a difference?
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 8, 2020 at 8:01 pm in reply to: Bitterness when scaling up

    And what are the ingredients?

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 7, 2020 at 8:18 pm in reply to: How to reduce viscosity of this detergent liquid?

    Ethanol or isopropanol might help…

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 7, 2020 at 8:11 pm in reply to: PH

    Okay. Suppose it’s in there as chelate in which case 0.1% is already more than you need and you are free to adjust pH since chelation with citrate works even better at higher pH.

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 6, 2020 at 8:37 pm in reply to: Cosmos-approved preservative for clay mask
    Dermosoft 1388 requires you to lower the pH. Since there is as good as no water present whilst your clay may have strong pH buffering capacity, doing so will be tricky. If you want to use levulinic and anisic acid, you shouldn’t add them in their water soluble salt form (i.e. Dermosoft 1388) but as free acids. Still, you’d need a low pH.
    Heat treating your clay might also help.
    The bacteriocins in leucidal (I don’t know which one but that doesn’t really matter) are likely to adhere to clay and the aspen bark extract is something which troubles me somewhat: Aspen contain an elevated level of salicylates but mostly as glucosides, not free and active salicylic acid. Unless Activemicrotechnologies hydrolyses that, their extract won’t be as good as pure salicylic acid. And BTW that one also requires a low pH in order to work properly.
    Which organisms did grow in the challenge test?
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 6, 2020 at 8:19 pm in reply to: PH
    Again, why (= for which purpose, what is citric acid supposed to do in your formula) do you add citric acid?
    See, adding NaOH or the like will solve the problem of a low pH but it may not be the solution you’re looking for. There might be better options such as adding less citric acid in the first place. But to answer that, you’d have to be more specific on the ‘why’.
  • Concentrated lactic acid has a faint smell but easily covered. Never noticed anything once diluted (haven’t the bes nose, though).

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 6, 2020 at 5:23 pm in reply to: PH
    Why did you add citric acid?
    (Weird, I already replied to that post but somehow my answer isn’t there anymore…)
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 5, 2020 at 8:51 pm in reply to: Sterification with HCL
    At least, chromic acid does not dissolve glass and it doesn’t kill you (that is, if they find a cure once cancer kickes in). Sorry for the black humour :) . Chromic acid mixed with sulfuric acid was widely used to clean glass ware until someone found out that chromium VI not only is carcinogenic but also penetrates skin and is somewhat volatile… now we use piranha solution.
    I’m not saying HF is illegal but here around it’s hard to get and a 50% aqueous solution costs about $1 per 1 ml. The only lab accidents I can remember which happened during my time at the university (the whole uni, not just my lab) and seriously injured people was with HF.
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