[Pharma]

That cream should hold fragrance well if mixed in well. With many (but not quite all) creams it’s advantageous to homogenise again once cooled down, the perfect moment to incorporate fragrances.

Tween 20 & Tween 80: Adjust ratio to match HLB of product .

[Pharma]

@tracingrobots Next time you order something, check out the space in the cardboard box around the order and look for a gazillion packaging insulation flakes made out of styrofoam. Finally a use for this annoying filling material! Form and size don’t really matter as long as they float on top of the water. Sure, your beakers will still be dripping water all over the place… only metal beads help with that or use a thermostat regulated heating/magnetic stirrer instead of a water bath (though it’s not quite the same).

BTW polystyrene melts at about 240°C, no worries there. Just don’t use the starch/eco version, they’re water soluble.

[Pharma]

Pattsi said:

…there also in Cross-linked form (BASF’s i think) i got a sample from retailer.  
i saw lancôme use it with pineapple but on low i guess…

• Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract / Pineapple Fruit Extract

…And can i write the name of the brand?  or i have to do it like Lancxxe this.

Cross-linked? Got a name by any chance? (Me being curious 🙂 )

The Lancôme ingredient could be anything (and with that, I just answered your next question); water, sugar, wax, secondary metabolites, active or inactive enzymes (bromelaine), just to name a few.

Me, I like transglutaminase. It has an INCI name and so could (maybe?) be an allowed cosmetic ingredient. Although, I don’t know if it has any real usefulness as such unless… *thinking of John Travolta and Nicolas Cage* …no, that’s just gross! :smiley:

[Pharma]

Worked with metal beads and floating plastic balls in water baths. Don’t really appreciate both. The plastic balls (like ping pong balls) reduce splashing somewhat but you need to clean everything way more often or add a preservative. The metal beads are kinda cool but for proper heating it takes more time and you can’t use it for quickly dipping a small tube inside or quickly do this or that… and it’s heavy.

You could simply put some styrofoam insulation chips in your water bath. Doesn’t cost anything and easily disposed of after work.

[Pharma]

Why do you need to shake?

[Pharma]

Why do you want to add PEG-20? You’ve got already glycerol as humectant, why add a PEG too?

[Pharma]

Using a PEG derivative to solubilise a preservative sounds like a bad choice. It will be locked in micelles leaving your water phase basically unpreserved.

Try adding Optiphen plus very slowly and under constant good mixing (for DIY batches, add it dropwise). Only add more once everything has fully dissolved. At recommended usage levels, it is soluble in water but not the easiest to incorporate. Once it starts clumping, you’ve lost the game.

[Pharma]

Mesenchyme is not present in plants and hence, you can not isolate MSC exosomes from plant stem cell cultures .

Using human stem cells isn’t cosmetics either. Whether certain types of human stem cell derivatives/products would be allowed depends on ethical regulations in the country of sales and, given that it is a human product containing human proteins, it’s also not evident that these would pass as off the shelf cosmetics.

[Pharma]

Honestly, I’d melt the butter and waxy substances (glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol) in the oils first. Let cool down below 50°C or so and process as proposed. I think it would take forever to dissolve at room temp…

[Pharma]

Silver (nitrate or colloidal) will oxidise immediately with H2O2 and become inactive silver oxide. BTW many colloidal silver products aren’t what they’re supposed to be. Colloidal silver, although bacteria can’t stand silver, is mostly an internet hype and used for things like curing every known disease or living forever, just to mention a few…

If you really use silver, go with silver nitrate in an light-impermeable airless dispenser bottle. And don’t be disappointed when your hands turn blueish-grey to black because that’s what silver nitrate does on skin when exposed to light.

[Pharma]

esthetician922 said:

oh wow, ok, thank you. Yes, I am using 90% lactic acid. So then if I am only using 4.960 of lactic acid then would that change my formula to a 5% lactic acid serum? (I rounded up)

Only if you didn’t add sodium lactate and it have a higher pH than you already have. It only works if you add sodium lactate!

Given that cosmetics is great at marketing but sucks at telling the truth, the whole truth, and only the truth, a mix of 5% lactic acid with 5% sodium lactate would probably be considered a buffered 5% lactic acid serum whereas a 10% lactic acid with 5% relative amount of sodium hydroxide would most likely be considered a buffered 10% lactic acid serum. Both will be 100% identical and, chemically speaking, be 5% lactic acid. What’s sold out there is usually buffered to some extent and nobody cares that this turns the acid into a salt. Hence, call it whatever you like as long as it contains 10% lacti-something.

[Pharma]

@ngarayeva001 Okay.

And sure you’re right. Nice feeling w/o are finicky. What we do in pharmacy is quite often to gel the oil phase to the point where it gets an apparent melting point above maybe 30°C. This kind of ‘solid’ product remains fairly stable even if, on a theoretical level, it’s not. Best example is traditional cold cream.

Isolan GPS sound like something worth trying, gotta give that a shot one day myself.

[Pharma]

ngarayeva001 said:

I thought it’s high internal phase W/O as there is salt as a stabiliser there. W/Os are extremely challenging and process sensitive. I haven’t worked with Olivem 900 but in any case you need at least two emulsifiers. You need stabilisers for both oil and waterphase..

It’s not a HIPE, just a w/o emulsion with an amount of oil which is said to be suitable for Olivem 900.

Olivem 900 & cetyl alcohol would be regarded as two emulsifiers in this system. There is no inherent necessity to always use two emulsifiers. Using chemically pure single molecules tends to result in less stable emulsions and there, two or three emulsifiers are usually superior. Olivem 900 on the other hand is an olive oil derived emulsifier which therefore contains a mix of different fatty acids (mostly palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acid). This already counts as emulsifier combo.

Cocoa butter serves as oil gelling agent.

[Pharma]

100% sodium lactate and 90% lactic acid for a pH which equals pka.

And shush, I mixed stuff up and posted an error: 5.528 pure sodium lactate and 4.472 lactic acid 100% or 4.960 lactic acid 90%.

Good observation!

[Pharma]

Quote from their site:

Extraction Method: … A mixed trimester of glycerine, caproic acids.

Obtained from: Seeds of Cocos nucifera, Palmae

So, they use trimester and caproic acid to get capric/caprylic triglycerides and, very interesting, ‘palmae’ (hidden message that they also use palm oil or just thoughtless copy-paste?). Not quite what I expect from a reliable source… 🙂

Are they reliable?

[Pharma]

As an example: to achieve a pH of 3.86 (equals pka of lactic acid), you’d need 1 mol-equivalent pure lactic acid and 1 mol-equivalent of pure sodium lactate. Converting molecular weight into gram gives you 1.112 g sodium lactate for every gram of lactic acid 90%.

To calculate a different pH, use the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation and don’t forget to calculate in mol, not grams, and consider dilutions if working for example with 90% lactic acid. Also, don’t just add sodium lactate to your 10% lactic acid but calculate the required ratio which would equal 10% lactic acid plus sodium hydroxide. In above case, you’d have to use 5.265 g lactic acid 90% and 4.735 sodium lactate to obtain a buffered ‘10% lactic acid’ at pH 3.86.

[Pharma]

20% v/v is usually enough to stop microbes from growing. However, it will not kill them.

[Pharma]

Unlike in Mexico, using street bikes as kitchen tools is a no-no here around.

BTW ‘normal’ stick blenders have something around 7’000 RPM.

[Pharma]

A mixture of the right proportions of lactic acid with sodium lactate gives a higher pH than pure lactic acid.

[Pharma]

Thanks for the explanation!

Wow… your system is weird, not just on TV.

[Pharma]

‘Merica: The country of class-action lawsuits for bogus claims and people getting rich for spilling obviously hot coffee on obviously not heat-resistant thighs.

Europe: Big pharma always wins.

Seriously, I honestly haven’t heard that such a big corp is even bending the knee unless people died. Settling a lawsuit is being guilty but walk free. Not being guilty and staying that way is why they have layers on retainer, good layers, and they have insurances for the harder cases too. Now why would they settle if they didn’t do sell poison or could get a marketing benefit out of it? Or do I understand something wrong here?

[Pharma]

No! You like C ester, so go with more of that (2% C ester, 1% C alcohol) .

For my creams, depending on overall feel and requirements, I frequently substitute 0.5% cetyl stearate with 1% cetyl alcohol or 1% cetyl alcohol with 0.5% cetyl stearate. But I don’t do it to improve the lamellar phase but changing melting point of a lamellar phase I already have (because it contains some of both ingredients). That’s a luxury I often have but you don’t. Gosh, I shouldn’t have mentioned it… I can be confusing, sorry!

Watch the pendulum, watch the pendulum… you fall asleep & do what I say: Try 2% C ester with 1% C alcohol. Try 2% C ester with 1% C alcohol. :smiley:

[Pharma]

Yes. The reason why is hidden in the long post on May 20… I know, I write too long interlocking phrases, adding too many parentheses (you can simply skip them if you like it simple), and touching too many subjects within those phrases (not to mention that English is not my mothers tongue and my phrasing might be somewhat off). So, re-read first paragraph in said post. It says: small chance to win with the other options without turning your lotion less white.

BTW test gums or synthetic gelling agent in plain water to get a rough approximation of the required % and ratio.

[Pharma]

Okay, why didn’t you say before!

So you’re making a deodorant… that puts it into a different light.

Try a different emulsifier (yours isn’t made for alcoholic solutions). Better yet, remove alcohol and try a different emulsifier (obviously one for silicones, yours isn’t made for silicones either… but you know that already) or simply don’t add silicone oil (BTW, dimethicone isn’t volatile). Why exactly do you add silicone oil anyway?

And yes, don’t use more solubiliser/emulsifier, you’ve got enough of both already in there (it’s basically just that with alcohol and enough aluminium chlorohydrate to etch holes into my armpits).

Just as an example CLICK ME.

[Pharma]

So they DID sell asbestos. Here in Europe, we got pamphlets from J&J stating that they could prove that no asbestos was present in their products and consumers are safe to use their powders.

Guess I did miss something…