Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 25, 2019 at 4:28 pm in reply to: Poly Vinyl Alcohol as a Thickener.

    Most of the chemists here formulate cosmetic products so you may not get any quick replies. You also haven’t provided a list of ingredients in your formula which makes it hard to opine whether the ingredient will work.

    My suggestion is to put it in your formula at 1% then adjust the pH and track the viscosity.  I believe PVA requires an acidic environment to thicken so it probably won’t work with bleach but I’ve not done the experiment so can’t say.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 23, 2019 at 9:43 pm in reply to: How similar are formaldehyde-releasers in terms of irritant contact dermatitis?

    Look up the individual ingredients here.
    https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients

    Polyquaterniums are not similar. They are vastly different polymers who all happen to have an amine group but are otherwise not the same. 

    And when searching for such information go to https://scholar.google.com/

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 23, 2019 at 12:56 pm in reply to: help to make a rolled up scrub

    ,"y":3,"w":564,"h":37,"abs_x":424,"abs_y":693}”>https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/5339/where-to-find-free-formulas-for-cosmetics#latest

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 22, 2019 at 6:19 pm in reply to: Formulate serum

    Serum is a marketing term, it is not a descriptive, scientific term.  
    Anything can be called a serum.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 22, 2019 at 12:29 pm in reply to: Are there effective broad spectrum organic preservatives

    What do you mean by “organic”? 
    Are you talking about certified organic by the USDA? 
    Are you talking about “organic” = “natural”?
    Are you talking about “organic” as in certified by some lesser natural standard?
    Are you talking about “organic” as in organic chemistry?

    Probably the most effective and reliable preservative which has been tested, are organic molecules, and are broadly effective are Methylparaben & DMDM Hydantoin. But I suspect you might mean something else by the term “organic”.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 22, 2019 at 3:31 am in reply to: How to delete a previous post in this forum

    Just send me a message.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 21, 2019 at 6:30 pm in reply to: Rationale for heating

    And to make it easier to form smaller emulsion particles.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 21, 2019 at 6:29 pm in reply to: How much Polyquaternium-7 in shampoo?

    @bahey - In my experience, Dimethicone has a measurable effect.  Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride may work better that PQ7.  Also PQ10 is a good option.

    ,"y":1192,"w":0,"h":18,"abs_x":384,"abs_y":2758}”>But just because I don’t find PQ7 particularly impressive in the formula I was working with doesn’t mean you will have the same experience. It’s used by a lot of formulators. Unfortunately, I think a lot of formulators just put ingredients in because they trust what suppliers are saying.

    ,"y":1306,"w":0,"h":18,"abs_x":384,"abs_y":2872}”>The most important thing is to experiment and take measurements. Test your formulations (on a blinded basis) and see if you can tell a difference with and without an ingredient. Don’t rely on supplier information or even the declarations of formulators on this forum to shape your final opinions. 

    ,"y":1420,"w":0,"h":18,"abs_x":384,"abs_y":2986}”>And when you run experiments, come back here and post your results so we can all advance the science.

    ,"y":1477,"w":0,"h":18,"abs_x":384,"abs_y":3043}”>Cosmetic science suffers from lots of motivated research, anecdotes and secrecy. There is surprisingly little controlled, unbiased published research. A forum like this can change it but only if people are willing to experiment, learn, and share.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 20, 2019 at 9:51 pm in reply to: Are Kitchen Hotplates Any Good?

    @ngarayeva001 - because you don’t get even heating. The part of the container that is in direct contact with the heating element can get hotter than boiling water. Using a water bath is a better, more controlled choice. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 20, 2019 at 9:47 pm in reply to: How much Polyquaternium-7 in shampoo?

    We always used it as supplied. You don’t need a lot of polymer to get an effect.  Of course, I never found PQ-7 particularly conditioning in a shampoo formula.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 20, 2019 at 4:59 pm in reply to: A view that Chemists shouldn’t formulate natural skincare. Only cellular biologists.

    @”Dr Catherine Pratt” - I don’t think the author was the one who posted the article. It was put up by someone who stumbled onto it while doing some Google searching.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 20, 2019 at 2:16 pm in reply to: UK regulations… Do you need a chief chemist?

    Near as I can tell, that is not a requirement in the regulations. 
    https://www.ceway.eu/cosmetics-regulatory-services/cosmetics-responsible-person/

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 18, 2019 at 8:43 pm in reply to: A view that Chemists shouldn’t formulate natural skincare. Only cellular biologists.

    @Dtdang - of course, being misinformed about a subject is usually worse than being uninformed about a subject.

    ,"y":41,"w":0,"h":18,"abs_x":384,"abs_y":3655}”>

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 17, 2019 at 9:55 pm in reply to: Rosemary and Rye Flour Quandary

    It is difficult to answer your question without you explaining what you mean by some of your terms.

    When you ask “why this works?” what exactly do you mean? What are the indications that the product is working? Specifically, how is your hair different when you use this treatment versus a standard shampoo and conditioner treatment? How is it different from doing no treatment or just rinsing your hair with water?

    In truth, there is no simple answer to your question. The most likely answer is that you enjoy the process of creating and using the treatment, which makes you believe your hair is in great condition. A scientific evaluation of your hair after treatment may indicate that your hair is actually not more clean than a standard shampoo/conditioner wash, but that matters less than how you feel about it.

    There is nothing special in rosemary or rye flour that would be beneficial to hair. The chemical composition of rye flour isn’t that much different than that of wheat flour. Also, there is nothing particularly good about rinsing your hair with apple cider vinegar. There is zero scientific evidence that it’s good for hair or that it cleans hair. 

    Cosmetic science is not an exact science. And psychological effects are a big part of the functioning of cosmetics.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 17, 2019 at 1:25 pm in reply to: A view that Chemists shouldn’t formulate natural skincare. Only cellular biologists.

    If someone is trying to sell you something, their opinion about a subject should be viewed suspiciously. This is not to say that the person is lying, but you can be certain you are not getting the full picture of whatever subject they are opining on.

    I was a biology major then switched to chemistry in my final year in college. Every chemistry major had to take biology too and had to learn how to read biology research papers. Her claims about the abilities of different scientists are ridiculous.   

    Also, practically nothing I learned in biology or chemistry was directly helpful in my job as a cosmetic chemist or formulator. College does not teach you about specific ingredients, formulating, what’s best for skin or hair or anything else about making products.

    There are some valid points about essential oils, extracts, etc. but there is a lot of BS too. For example physical scrubs do not cause cell death & foaming has nothing to do with surfactant’s “destruction of skin”

    Overall, I find the author of this paper to be immature and insecure.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 16, 2019 at 5:53 pm in reply to: Disodium cocoyl glutamate vs Sodium cocoyl glutamate

    There may be a pH difference but they can probably be used in the same types of formulas.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 16, 2019 at 5:52 pm in reply to: Proteins in skincare

    I doubt you could find any significant difference between Quinoa hydrolyzed protein and other hydrolyzed proteins. Maybe the amino acid distribution might be a bit varied but nothing that would make a substantial difference.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 15, 2019 at 5:46 pm in reply to: Can Castor oil provide hair shining?

    I don’t know. You have to experiment.  5% is a good place to start.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 14, 2019 at 5:07 pm in reply to: Hair thermal protection

    Yes, you have 0.6% active cetrimonium chloride where the CIR safety recommendation is 0.25% maximum for leave-in products.

    ,"y":2660,"w":0,"h":18,"abs_x":384,"abs_y":5960}”>https://www.dropbox.com/s/36lf0xpi5x9ts33/cetrimonium-chloride%20copy.pdf?dl=0

    ,"y":2717,"w":0,"h":18,"abs_x":384,"abs_y":6017}”>

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 14, 2019 at 2:45 pm in reply to: Hair thermal protection

    Heat protection is marketing speak for conditioning the hair and this looks like it will do that. 

    Is this a leave-in or rinse out?

    If it’s a leave in the Cetrimonium chloride can be a problem as might the behentrimoium chloride.

    If it’s a rinse out, the PVP and VP/VA copolymers will likely just rinse down your drain. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 14, 2019 at 12:28 pm in reply to: Where can i find a formulations
  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 13, 2019 at 11:00 pm in reply to: Hair thermal protection

    I suppose I should recreate my Facebook answer here…

    The challenge in your question is in quantifying damage. To say “reduce damage caused by heat” you’d have to be able to quantify that damage. The studies I’ve seen aren’t able to quantify it. Take this example. https://www.dropbox.com/…/heat-damage-to-hair.pdf… While they had some nice SEM pictures and pointed out damage, they didn’t show a quantitative measure of heat damage. So from a blow dryer standpoint, there isn’t much heat damage.

    This study looked more specifically at heat treatments and the effect of a flat iron. They conclude that some polymer treatments provide protection, https://www.dropbox.com/…/hair-heat-flat-iron.pdf… most notably from hair breakage. But from my reading the reduction in breakage could just have been coming from the polymer coating and the heat wasn’t relevant. Hair could have been damaged by heat but the polymer resisted hair breakage because of the coating. 

    All this is to say, it’s complicated. They may just be conditioners that provide conditioning benefits and have no noticeable protection of the fiber from heat.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 13, 2019 at 7:33 pm in reply to: Testing for specific ingredients

    To answer your question, no there isn’t a simple test to run to say definitively yes or no that a product contains piptoporus betulinus, birch tar, and betulinic acid.

    Piptoporus betulinus and birch tar are extracts which can be made up of a wide variety of different chemicals. You would have no way of telling whether a formula contains those extracts. You can theoretically determine some components of those extracts but you wouldn’t know for sure.

    Betulinic acid is a more simple chemical so you should be able to identify unique peaks in a mass spec or GC/IR or something like that. There isn’t a simple test that I know of.

    But it seems like none of this really matters. If you want to include those ingredients for marketing purposes (which is the only legal reason to include them), just buy an extract like this 
    http://www.greentech.fr/en/protectol-3/#comments

    or this
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/1j17awld7f7v0di/VenusBarkExtractMarketingSheetOct2015.pdf?dl=0

    And put it in at some low level 0.1% and that’s it.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 13, 2019 at 7:21 pm in reply to: Food Grade Ingredients in Cosmetic Products?

    In the US, the regulations say that it is illegal to sell unsafe cosmetics. If you can prove that your products are safe, then you can use food grade ingredients. Proving safety will be challenging.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 13, 2019 at 6:46 pm in reply to: Testing for specific ingredients

    Psoriasis is a medical condition and the FDA has a monograph specifically written for it. If a product is going to claim it treats psoriasis, it must include only actives laid out in the FDA monograph. See this.

    The easier-to-read version is here. 
    https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/psoriasis/topical-treatments-psoriasis#1

    The bottom line is that none of the ingredients you listed are approved for treatment of psoriasis. It’s an unproven folk remedy. 

    And since this is the case, you can put in however much you want.

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