Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 17, 2016 at 3:02 pm in reply to: cosmetic bases

    “Is it possible?”

    That depends on what you mean. Sure, you can add 35% oil to this cream. That doesn’t mean it will be stable (it probably won’t be) and doesn’t mean it will be safe (the preservative will certainly be compromised).

    “(what) is the maximum %…?”  

    I don’t know. Unless you know the percentages of the other ingredients you can’t say.

    In my opinion, these cream bases are a waste of your money if you plan on doing anything with them other than making products to use on yourself right away.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 17, 2016 at 12:56 pm in reply to: Hair Spray, Two-Layer

    That really depends on batch size and space available.  See this discussion of equipment.
    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/1041/

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 16, 2016 at 11:08 pm in reply to: Hydrosol shelf life for selling

    I wouldn’t recommend selling unpreserved products. It is unsafe. You would be legally liable for any harm caused to consumers.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 16, 2016 at 1:56 pm in reply to: Frequent Reprocessing of Bulk

    I think it depends on the company. Where I worked this would have been a Product Development issue & not an QC issue.  QC only ran tests on incoming and outgoing raw materials and batches.

    I agree with the advice to make multiple batches in the lab to determine whether it is a formulation issue or a manufacturing issue.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 16, 2016 at 1:43 pm in reply to: Welcome to the forum

    Welcome to all our new members!  Feel free to start a discussion and participate in any of the ones that are already going on.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 16, 2016 at 1:36 pm in reply to: Discolouration of Cream

    Here are a few errors in the list.

    ZnO - This should be spelled out (Zinc Oxide)
    Alluminium hydroxide - spelled wrong. Aluminium 
    TiO2 - This should be spelled out (Titanium Dioxide)
    ODA - What is this?
    Xanthane gum - Xanthan Gum
    Allontoin - spelled wrong. It’s Allantoin
    Aristoflex velvet - Trade name. INCI name is Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11 
    Phenonip - This is a trade name not a proper INCI name
    Silicone Oil - This isn’t a proper INCI name
    Distilled water - It’s supposed to be listed as Water (Aqua), not distilled water.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 15, 2016 at 6:19 pm in reply to: Stop loss conditioner design

    You’re asking about a product to stop hair loss? Minoxidil is the only proven topically applied ingredient that has any benefit.

    But as unproven and likely not working ingredients go, caffeine is popular these days. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 11, 2016 at 9:43 pm in reply to: cationic and anionic surfactant

    Yes, cationic polymers are usually compatible with anionic surfactants.  Cationic surfactants on the other hand are not.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 11, 2016 at 1:55 am in reply to: Hair Spray, Two-Layer

    What is your formula?  Please include all ingredients and percents.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 11, 2016 at 1:52 am in reply to: Compatibility of SLES, SLS & Polyquart-10

    I added Cocamide MEA in the middle when the formula was heated up.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 9, 2016 at 9:44 pm in reply to: Stearic-palmitic acid

    Chalk it up to the vagaries of ingredient nomenclature.  Here’s my opinion of what is going on. 

    The PCPC is responsible for approving INCI names.  When picking names they have to balance two things, scientific accuracy and length of the name.

    If scientific accuracy was all that matter they would have just used the IUPAC system and not created a new one. But those names are so long and complicated that they wouldn’t fit on the labels and no one would read them anyway so it defeats the purpose of labeling.  

    Also, nearly all ingredients are blends of different kinds of molecules. Naturally derived compounds have hundreds of component materials while synthetic ingredients might have the main reactant plus residual reagents and secondary reactions.

    Now, the PCPC could have said that the INCI name of a material will list all it’s component materials. But you could imagine that this would make the ingredient lists rather long too. So, the PCPC decided they would ignore most residual ingredients and go for the most straightforward naming. This reduces accuracy but it maintains readability.

    The other issue is that listing all the ingredients could be misleading.  Take Stearic Acid for example.  There is no pure stearic acid so it will be a blend of different acids and your INCI name would be:

    INCI Name: Stearic Acid & Palmitic Acid & Lauric Acid & Myristic Acid

    If this were the case, how would you differentiate a material that has 90% stearic acid (10% residuals) from one that has 20% stearic acid (80% residuals)?  There would be no way to differentiate between Stearic Acid and Palmitic Acid.

    All of the acid derived materials would have exactly the same name and formulators (and consumers) would have no way of knowing the difference.

    So, it’s more clear for the INCI naming committee to just say that if something has >50% of an ingredient then it will be called that ingredient and the others will be ignored.  This is further complicated by the fact that there are materials with source derived ingredient names (e.g. Cocamide DEA) and ones that are purposefully blended (Cetearyl Alcohol). 

    This ingredient naming is complicated.  That’s my opinion anyway.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 9, 2016 at 9:24 pm in reply to: review my formula for a mild shampoo for dry hair

    Well, in the industry it is not used as a primary thickener. There are just other ingredients that work better and cost less. 

    Xanthan gum may be less expensive and you may be able to use less to get adequate thickening. But it might also make your product feel a bit slimy. It depends on the level. But Xanthan Gum would be more in line with a “natural” positioning.  It wouldn’t be my generally recommended thickener, but neither would Polyquat 10.  Better would be Hydroxyethylcellulose or Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 9, 2016 at 5:56 pm in reply to: Stearic-palmitic acid

    Most raw materials are actually blends of ingredients even though they are list as single ingredients. This has to do with the way they are synthesized. If you want to make Stearic Acid you start with a blend of fatty acids. Most of that blend is C18 (stearic) but some percent will be C16 (palm), C14, C12, C20.  For cosmetic ingredients it doesn’t make economical sense to separate the fatty acids more than they do.  You’ll almost always get a blend in your final product even though most of it is Stearic Acid.

    Here is a list of common oils they might use to make cosmetic raw materials. You can see they are a blend of lots of fatty acids. http://www.chempro.in/fattyacid.htm

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 9, 2016 at 5:19 pm in reply to: Formulator-led ingredient sourcing

    You would just write it in the specification as to where the source must come from.  If there is some kind of measureable difference, you would write that in the specifications.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 9, 2016 at 1:43 pm in reply to: review my formula for a mild shampoo for dry hair

    Polyquaternium 10 is not really a thickener. It is a conditioning ingredient. If you want thickening you would use something like Xanthan Gum or Hydroxymethyl Cellulose.  Cationic guar is also a conditioning ingredient, not a thickener.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 8, 2016 at 4:45 pm in reply to: review my formula for a mild shampoo for dry hair

    The Aloe isn’t doing anything so you can get rid of that.  You don’t need both Polyquat 44 and Polyquat 7.  Get rid of the 44.  The Hydrolyzed protein is probably not doing anything either.   Glycerin isn’t doing anything in the formula either.

    In sum - get rid of
    aloe
    glycerin
    polyquat 44
    polyquat 10
    hydrolyzed protein
    Quaternium 31

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 5, 2016 at 12:20 am in reply to: Simple Facial Mist/Toner (preservative question)

    I would add a preservative.  Percentage depends on your manufacturing conditions.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 4, 2016 at 4:54 pm in reply to: Are professional products covered by FDA regulations?

    This is what the FDA says…

    “Since the FP&L Act applies only to consumer commodities and their packages as defined in the Act, cosmetic ingredient declarations are required only on the label of the outer container of cosmetics customarily sold at retail or used in the performance of services conducted within the households. It does not apply, for example, to products used at professional establishments or samples distributed free of charge, unless such products are customarily also sold at retail, even if they were labeled “For professional use only.”

    I don’t know how they define “consumer commodities”

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 3, 2016 at 11:16 pm in reply to: Adding 2%sunflower oil to foam bath with SLES and Cocamide DEA made the foam bath thicken. Why?

    That’s probably what is happening.  What do you want help with?

    Also, why do you want to add sunflower oil to a cleansing formula?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 3, 2016 at 11:08 pm in reply to: Are professional products covered by FDA regulations?

    I think if the products are being sold to consumers, they are covered by FDA labeling regulations.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 1, 2016 at 2:04 pm in reply to: Why do small brands usually start with bottles/jars and not Tubes?

    I agree with what’s been said.  

    Another downside of tubes is that they don’t stand up when put on shelf. You lose a ton of visibility, especially compared to competitors who are using bottles. Then if you solve that problem by putting the tube in a box, your costs increase and the consumer has no easy way to store their tubes either.

    When I worked for a corporation, tubes were good for specialty products or some promotion but not much else.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 29, 2016 at 10:02 pm in reply to: qualification

    Just click on my username and send me a message.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 29, 2016 at 1:40 pm in reply to: Advice for Internships
  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 29, 2016 at 1:40 pm in reply to: qualification

    There really is no officially recognized national professional training in the cosmetic industry. Really, if you have a college degree in chemistry you can get a job in the cosmetic industry.

    But here is a list of all the programs around the world that I could find. https://chemistscorner.com/cosmetic-science-programs-around-the-world/

    Certainly if you get a Masters degree from a university then that will look better on a resume than any of the online courses you can take. That doesn’t mean you’ll learn more and in fact, the online courses are probably better if you are looking for practical information.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 28, 2016 at 8:51 pm in reply to: the death of parabens?

    Rumors of the demise of parabens are greatly exaggerated. 

    They didn’t ban the most frequently used paraben Methylparaben. 

    I just think there will be more methylparaben sold.

    Triclosan isn’t used much either (at least as a preservative). http://media.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/documents/CT1601_02_Steinberg_Table_web.pdf

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