Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 11, 2018 at 12:19 am in reply to: Please help a dummy understand formulating with ceramides.

    @MJL - If you really want to find out what is true, it’s always helpful to remain skeptical. And it’s helpful to be aware of your own confirmation bias. Hundreds of anecdotes from SkinCareAddiction may feel compelling but they don’t tell you much. People are much more motivated to write positive (or negative) experiences than the vastly more common experience “I don’t know.” 

    @ngarayeva001 has been convinced through personal experiences which may or may not be real. This doesn’t provide you much evidence since an individual experience is almost never predictive of some general rule.

    Ultimately, I think further reading research won’t be of much benefit to you unless you understand the implications of papers like this one

     
    I know a bit about biochemistry and I have a hard time figuring out what a paper like that means as far the benefit to applying ceramides to your skin. This type of research is not easy to do or understand!  Their conclusion is telling of what’s known in this type of research.  “Hence, topical skin lipid supplementation may provide opportunities for controlling ceramide deficiency and improving skin condition.”

    Certainly not a ringing endorsement.

    However, I don’t want to come off as saying that you’re wasting your time trying ceramides or even researching them more. By all means, try them. Read the science. They might work for you or at least might feel like they are working for you which is probably just as good.
  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 5:21 pm in reply to: How does Lush UK get away with it?

    Perhaps they change things up when the inspectors come.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 5:18 pm in reply to: Natural non-aerosol hairspray formula?

    No - Carbomer will not provide hold.

    No - You can’t make (to sell) products using drinkable alcohol

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 2:28 pm in reply to: New Preservative

    @Max - I think the terms you’re looking for are “natural” vs “synthetic”

    Let’s not let marketers and other bullshitters bastardize the word “chemical.”  Chemical should never be used when you mean synthetic.

    As far as natural preservatives go, anything is worth testing.  But plants have evolved anti-microbials to fight off specific microbes. Cosmetics, on the other hand, are attacked by a vast array of microbes. It will be surprising if there is any “natural” compound that will be suitably effective as synthetic preservatives. And if one is found, it will no doubt be made more effective by synthetically modifying it in the lab.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 2:18 pm in reply to: Please help a dummy understand formulating with ceramides.

    @MJL  - 

    Finally, would it be wrong to put this “complex” in a base of pomegranate seed oil? Would that, in effect, completely screw up the “ratio”?
    In my view, the ratio is marketing BS so there is nothing to “screw up.” Put your complex in whatever base that it will go in. Since it’s hardly proven that topical ceramides are going to have any beneficial effect, you’re unlikely to notice. This ratio is only some theoretical thing that marketers of ceramides have put together. It is not based on settled science.

    I am sorry if this is all so stupid. I am really trying hard to understand all of this information as an amateur formulator who is desperate to be able to make my own product due to skin sensitivities that make it seemingly impossible to use the array of professionally formulated products that are already available. I hope you can be patient with me.

    It might surprise you to learn but there is a ton of misinformation, dubious claims, and sketchy science that gets tossed around by cosmetic marketers, raw material sellers, and formulators too. Ceramides are a great example. 

    Sure, ceramides have been identified as important components of the skin and specifically the outer layer, stratum corneum. But there is scant evidence that applying a ceramide containing lotion will have any more beneficial effect than just applying a good, petrolatum-based moisturizer. And there certainly hasn’t been an exhaustive study figuring out exactly what the correct ratio of ceramides to cholesterol to free fatty acids. 

    There is so much eagerness to create the next greatest skin product that often findings from a small, unrepeated, bad study get trumpeted by biased parties to convince consumers and formulators alike that an ingredient will have amazing effects. It’s almost always untrue.  Ceramides are just another in a long line of potentially, but unproven, great ingredients.

    Note:  if someone wants to make a science-based defense of the use of ceramides, I’d love to see it. I scanned through published evidence in Google scholar and saw nothing I would consider convincing.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 2, 2018 at 12:23 pm in reply to: Lotion pH 2.2 why so low?

    Without more info about relative amounts, it would be hard to give an answer. Best guess is you have too much acid, not enough base.  What’s the pH of your water?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 30, 2018 at 6:49 pm in reply to: Biotin plus ascorbic acid

    I’m sure you can put 0.01% of each in there and use them as claims ingredients.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 30, 2018 at 5:49 pm in reply to: Biotin plus ascorbic acid

    What will the ascorbic acid and biotin be doing in the formula?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 30, 2018 at 1:00 pm in reply to: Garlic and hair growth

    Coffee - no

    There is only one ingredient that has been proven to help with hair regrowth, Minoxidil. And even this doesn’t work for everyone.  All other claimed ingredients are supported only by anecdotes and small, unrepeatable studies. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 5:51 pm in reply to: Oat shampoo

    I think he was specifically asking about using the Silk brand oatmeal milk.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 4:56 pm in reply to: Oat shampoo

    It would be difficult to figure out what the INCI name of the ingredient would be called.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 4:37 pm in reply to: why face mask giving a burning sensation to some

    I agree, limonene is probably the most likely cause.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 1:15 pm in reply to: why face mask giving a burning sensation to some

    or Phenoxyethanol can do this too.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 28, 2018 at 9:13 pm in reply to: Garlic and hair growth

    Interesting paper. Perhaps may come to something in the future.

    But as far as garlic oil goes (after reading the study posted) I remain highly skeptical. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 28, 2018 at 7:04 pm in reply to: Garlic and hair growth

    To answer the question…no

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 27, 2018 at 1:36 pm in reply to: How to choose herbal oils

    @Dtdang - The first thing to know when choosing an oil is what exactly are you choosing the oils to do? 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 23, 2018 at 6:00 pm in reply to: What did I do wrong?

    You’ve discovered a few drops is not enough.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2018 at 12:53 pm in reply to: What did I do wrong?

    There are a number of things that could cause this problem, such as…

    1. You didn’t use enough preservative
    2. You didn’t formulate it in a clean enough environment
    3. Your used contaminated raw materials
    4. You used contaminated packaging

    Did you do a preservative efficacy test?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2018 at 10:35 pm in reply to: Grape seed oil & Rose hip oil

    @Dtdang - Formulators who use both “natural” and synthetic ingredients can produce the most effective cosmetic products. People who limit themselves to only natural materials, will be limited in the performance of formulas they can make. Synthetic ingredients are used because they work better than natural ingredients.

    It’s like being a painter who can use only three colors versus one who can use thousands of colors. Sure, both artists can make nice looking pictures but the painter with more colors will have many more possible paintings and styles to create.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2018 at 6:04 pm in reply to: Shopkeeper gets jail for selling illegal skin lightening products

    17% hydroquinone! yikes!!

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2018 at 4:32 pm in reply to: natural coloring in lipstick

    @EVchem - suppliers have a motivation to ensure their ingredients are safe. Mainly because formulators rely on ingredient safety data to prove their formulas are safe. If the raw material supplier hasn’t done appropriate safety testing then no reasonable formulator will use that material.

    And if they have any hope of selling a new raw material outside the US such as in the EU, they have much more defined safety testing requirements. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2018 at 2:41 pm in reply to: Grape seed oil & Rose hip oil

    I agree, these are claims ingredients at best.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 9:47 pm in reply to: Is it time to regulate probiotics in cosmetics?

    Nice review article of cosmetic regulations in the US, but they never answer the question…is it time to regulate them?   

    Probably not since it’s difficult to demonstrate a significant effect.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 9:29 pm in reply to: Some help with spider web hair wax

    What is your specific question?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2018 at 6:57 pm in reply to: natural coloring in lipstick

    The FDA is pretty strict about colorants. It’s actually one of the main reasons cosmetics became regulated in the first place. 

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