OldPerry
Forum Replies Created
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If you add an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant then get rid of the Oils and KOH, you’ll produce better foam & a better product.
But sure, you can try adding those in small amounts to improve the performance of your product. (Betaine, SLES, Glucosides) It’s not going to be much improvement because you are starting with ancient technology.
It’s a decision you have to make then adjust your expectations of performance. You can give your clients an inferior product based on tradition, or a superior product based on science. Trying to turn a saponified oil product into a standard cleanser is like trying to turn a rotary, landline phone into an iPhone.
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@Gunther - I suppose the cationic polymers and surfactants might be attracted to skin in a way similar to the way they are attracted to hair.
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I’m sure Hyaluronic acid will give some humectant effect. But extracts pretty much don’t do anything noticeable in most cosmetics.
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@ngarayeva001 - I guess it depends on how you use the product and how effectively you remove the product from your face.
If you put this product on your face then wiped it completely off, I don’t think you’ll get any moisturizing effect. If you aren’t efficient and some of the product is still left behind, then you might get some but you also won’t be cleaning your face as well.
It’s a bit like putting on a moisturizer on your dirty face then wiping it off.
One other point, emulsifiers are surfactants and they will have some “cleansing” effect. Essentially, they emulsify the oils on your face and remove them when you wipe (or rinse) it away. Emulsifiers may not be good cleansers but they can be cleansers.
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Cyclodextrins are used in some systems to reduce odor.
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I don’t know where you’re located but https://carrubba.com/ might be a good choice.
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Use Chamomile essential oil if you want your product to smell like chamomile.
Use chamomile extract if you are selling to consumers who believe chamomile on their face does something.
But there is no functional reason to include chamomile. Any benefit you get from it can be gotten more efficiently & effectively by other ingredients.
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Generally, EOs should be added at the end of your processing. As far as jojoba oil, that may or may not work. You have to experiment. Personally, I’d use a solubilizer like Polysorbate but maybe jojoba oil will work.
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This is actually an interesting question.
In my view, the only way to get moisturizing from a product is if something is left behind. As @MarkBroussard suggests, the short amount of time that a rinse-off product is on skin will make little difference in moisturizing whether the ingredients have this effect or not. To get noticeable moisturizing, you need to leave something behind.
There are two ways to leave something behind. First, you make it a leave on product. But if you are leaving the product on, you’re not doing a good job of cleansing so the vast majority of cleansers are rinse off.
The other way to leave something behind from a rinse off product is using a dilution deposition method. This is you use ingredients in your formula that will plate out on the skin during use (some polymers will do this).
Finally, there is one other strategy to “moisturize” or at least support the claim of moisturizing. This is a bit of a trick, but essentially you take a measurement of moisturization prior to using the product on two sites on the skin. Then you wash one side with a standard cleanser (maybe soap) which you know will reduce moisturization. You wash the other side with your “moisturizing” formula which has less harsh detergents. When you compare those numbers, you’ll be able to say that it is more moisturizing than a standard cleanser because it’s less stripping of moisture.
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That’s a lot of money for an extract!
Couldn’t you just get the same impact by buying a standard, cheaper rosemary extract and adding an additional, much cheaper antioxidant?
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A couple of questions before I can answer.
Why do you want to replace Carbomer? Why not just add an additional ingredient to get whatever benefit you’re looking to get?
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First, the question of cosmetic chemistry vs product development. Cosmetic chemistry will generally apply to all jobs you might get in R&D. This would include Formulating, QA/QC, Analytical lab jobs, Process Engineering, Regulatory, etc. Product development refers primarily to Formulating. But for most medium sized and smaller companies, all the R&D people work on product development to some extent.
As far as your background goes, this is going to depend on the company who’s doing the hiring. For most medium sized and smaller companies, the fact that you have a PHD and science background would be enough to get you an interview for a product development / cosmetic chemist job. Larger companies are more interested in people with degrees that are more specified to the job they want done. So, Chemical Engineering students are hired more frequently for formulation jobs.
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Yeah, just increase the fatty alcohols or the thickening agent. No need to change anything else.
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Phenoxyethanol or Propylparaben
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@DrCatherinePratt - This seems like a significant challenge to me when working with essential oils. The fact that you don’t know the chemical composition of the ingredient you are adding could make for unknown stability results and also opens up the possibility that your supplier is giving you an ingredient that might not be of the same quality.
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It might taste weird but it’s unlikely to grow any microbes unless it gets moisture in the formula.
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It sounds like you need a better fragrance.
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I don’t know as I’ve never done a comparison experiment.
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@Chemist77 - how are the ethics completely missing? If companies are using formaldehyde to cross-link the keratin protein to hair for straightening and they aren’t exceeding allowed limits, what’s the problem with that?
I agree there are companies that have used way more formaldehyde than is allowed but this doesn’t mean products with only the allowable amount are unethical.
I’m curious about your perspective.
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@Bios - it works great when it is spiked with parabens and formaldehyde donors. https://personalcaretruth.com/2010/07/honeysuckle-plant-extract/
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You can do that by making a micro emulsion. But do you have an ingredient list?
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What % of alcohol are you using? Over 20% and you probably don’t need an additional preservative.
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Do you have an example of a product already on the market?
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@ssdc - If you want a clear shampoo you use a cationic polymer as the conditioning agent. It won’t work as well for conditioning as a silicone containing shampoo but it could be clear. Guar Hydroxypropyltriminoum chloride for example.
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The emulsifier you use depends on the HLB value of the oils that you’re using.