Home Cosmetic Science Talk Cosmetic Industry Starting a cosmetic line what to use as a thickner in serum which also provide some add on values to serum. something like sk

  • what to use as a thickner in serum which also provide some add on values to serum. something like sk

    Posted by dharmaraj on October 19, 2018 at 5:39 am

    i want to replace carbomer( edt2020 of lubrizol) with another thickner in my water based skin serum. i am serching for some ingredient which provide thickness along with some benifits to the formulation. i know about xanthan gum, ecogel by lucams myers. kindly sudgest me the ingredient and what add on benifit it can provide to formulation. along with dosage.

    ngarayeva001 replied 5 years, 3 months ago 6 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • dharmaraj

    Member
    October 21, 2018 at 2:43 pm

    any reply will be greatly appriciated.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 21, 2018 at 3:04 pm

    The best option is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It’s natural, acts like a humectant and performs well in presence of high concentration of active ingredients. Downside-price. If you don’t care about ‘natural’ label try seppuplus 400, great sensory, electrolite resistant. You won’t need more than 0.5% for a serum.

  • dharmaraj

    Member
    October 21, 2018 at 5:30 pm

    does hyaluronic acid be claimed as natural??

  • microformulation

    Member
    October 21, 2018 at 5:46 pm
    Define “natural.” (There is no legal definition in the US or EU).
    Using the term blithely as if it has objective meaning is an obstacle to the R&D process.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 22, 2018 at 9:24 am

    Disclaimer, when I said it’s “natural” I was referring a common perception of the consumer, rather than any legal or scientific definition.HA is mainly produced via bacterial fermentation (or could be animal origin). It is occured in human bodies, and as such, often marketed as “natural” whatever meaning it has for the end user. Xantham gum and hyaluronic acid are made by bacteria, sepiplus 400 (which I absolutely love) is synthesised in the lab. That is why I said, “if you don’t care about it being labeled as natural”. You can claim hyaluronic is “natural”, but I can’t imagine there is a way to justify that label for a polymer like sepiplus 400. The main reason why I like HA in serums, is it’s resistnace to a high concentration of active ingredients. It will gel anything at 0.3-0.5. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 22, 2018 at 9:37 am

    By the way I noticed that The Ordinary recently replaced Sepimax Zen to Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer in several formulations. One of examples is low pH 30% AHA peel. It is very diffucult to gel something with a low pH and so, they were using Sepimax Zen, which is rather sticky (and they were getting complaints). When I looked at their LOI last time, I noticed they replaced it to Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer. I have not worked with this form of HA, but I believe that it must be acting as a gel maker, because they don’t have any other ingredients that can form a gel in the formula. Which is bringing me back to the point that HA, is pretty nice gel maker.

  • oldperry

    Member
    October 22, 2018 at 12:43 pm

    A couple of questions before I can answer.

    Why do you want to replace Carbomer?  Why not just add an additional ingredient to get whatever benefit you’re looking to get?

  • dharmaraj

    Member
    October 27, 2018 at 2:33 am

    @Perry want to replace carbomer because it gives bit sticky feeling. abd due to it when somebody with bit oily skin applies serum on face than due to stikyness of the product they get pimples on face. thats why want some ingredient which doesnot provide stickyness or provide least stickyness. 

  • belassi

    Member
    October 27, 2018 at 4:00 am

    If I could deduce what was in your formula I might be able to be more use.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 27, 2018 at 6:14 am

    Carbomer isn’t sticky if you use the right amount Consider adding PEG-8 Dimethicone.  It will improve the sensory.

  • fekher

    Member
    October 27, 2018 at 11:05 am

    @dharmaraj take a look for cellulose gum like HEC , HMEC , HPC i think that they are suitable for your needs.

  • dharmaraj

    Member
    October 28, 2018 at 4:41 am

    @Belassi actives i am useing is kakadu plum extract and tyrostat and limepearl of lucas myer 1.5%, 1%, and 1% respectively and useing 5% pg and 1% sodium pca and verstatil sl as a presevetive.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 28, 2018 at 6:14 pm

    Sodium PCA can cause lose of viscocity for some polymers.

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