ozgirl
Forum Replies Created
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Not sure where you are located but this is an option
https://trulux.com/products/cetiol-rlf-caprylyl-caprylate-caprate/
trulux.com
CETIOL RLF (CAPRYLYL-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE) - Trulux
Acts as an emollient. It is a fast-spreading product that gives products a pleasant and light skin feel. It is made from natural renewable feedstock and is
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What is your preservative? Is it active at the pH of your carbomer?
Is there any change in pH or odor?
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Zinc oxide is an allowed mineral ingredient in COSMOS Organic and Natural Standard but it cannot be counted towards the organic content (because it is not organic).
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This is not a correct INCI ingredient listing. Words like powder, liquid and crystals are not used in ingredient list.
What is cucumber? Did they just add an entire cucumber 😮
Does it smell like nail polish remover? If the ethyl acetate was that high in the ingredients it would have a very strong odor.
I would not use this product. It is not a “professional” product.
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I wouldn’t trust this ingredients list.
They use Leucidal as a preservative which is at best a poor preservative. The recommended usage of this “preservative” is 2 to 4 % so it should not be last in the ingredients list.
I think you can safely assume that this list is inaccurate.
They have likely left out some preservatives and chelating agents along with water to make it sound more “natural”.
If you tried to make this product based on this ingredients list it would likely be a big jar of mould and bacteria in a very short amount of time.
I have also seen people claim they used aloe vera “juice” but in reality it was just a small amount of aloe vera extract dissolved in water (a reconstituted juice?).
Happy learning! 🙂
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Have you tried it without HEC? Is the HEC added for “cling” on the dashboard surface or for another reason?
You could also try different spray heads on your bottle.
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The amount of fragrance and essential oil is very high. Usually the combined total of fragrance and essential oil would be around 0.5% but maybe up to 1% depending on the fragrance/essential oil combination used.
Unless it is a particularly difficult to solubilise fragrance(or essential oil) you usually don’t need an additional solubiliser (i.e. Polysorbate 20) because the other surfactants solubilise the fragrance.
Try reducing the fragrance/essential oil and remove or lower the polysorbate 20. Remove or significantly reduce the glycerin. Doing the above will help to thicken the product and you should be able to reduce or remove the xanthan gum. Sodium coco sulfate should thicken with salt and this would give better sensorials than high amounts of xanthan gum.
Hope this helps 🙂
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What is the other ~80% of the formula?
You could try changing LABSA to the sodium salt (Sodium docdecylbenzene sulfonate powder).
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There are lots of laundry formulations (and other household formulations) on UL Prospector.
You can also get formulations from supplier websites (e.g. Stepan).
Zinador 22 from Croda is suggested as a possible additive for odor removal in laundry detergents.
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Not sure if it is the cause of your problem but why are you using 11% glycerin? That is way too much. It is not necessary. Try it without the glycerin.
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Would a heavy duty rotary tumbler (similar to a rock tumbler) be suitable for your needs?
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I haven’t tried it in this application but maybe something like ColaQuat SME from Colonial Chemical might be of use.
https://colonialchem.com/products/colaquat-sme/
It is cationic so may not work with anionics but worth a look.
colonialchem.com
Cola®Quat SME - Colonial Chemical Inc. | US-Made Chemicals
Cola®Quat SME - Colonial Chemical Inc. | US-Made Chemicals
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You should talk to your fragrance manufacturer. At the very least they will be able to guide you on the types of fragrances that are suitable for these products. There is a reason that the fragrances in these types of products are limited because only certain fragrances have the qualities you are looking for.
I haven’t made anything like this but I assume you would also probably need some sort of slow evaporating solvent. Maybe look to formulas for reed diffusers. They might give you some suggestions on solvents.
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It could also be your SCI. It is usually recommended for opaque formulations.
SLMI (Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate) is recommended for clear formulations.
Agree about needing a preservative.
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It depends on if you are making it 50% w/w or w/v?
If it is w/w (weight per weight) then you need 50 g of citric acid and 50 g water (total 100g)
If it is w/v (weight per volume) then you need 50 g of citric acid and make it up to 100 mL (in a volumetric flask).
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Biguanides are cationic and are not compatible with anionic systems.
Why do you have so much fragrance (1% should be more than enough) and why are you trying to add extra fragrance components? Just choose a fragrance you like and add it as supplied or work with your fragrance supplier to come up with something that better meets your needs.
Why did you reduce your surfactants so much in the revised version?
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As I said above it is more difficult not impossible to get good foaming without sulfate.
FYI - Dr Bronner uses sulfate surfactants in their multipurpose cleaning product. It is recommended for washing dishes among other things.
https://www.drbronner.com/collections/all/products/sal-suds-biodegradable-cleaner
drbronner.com
Sal Suds Biodegradable Cleaner
For floor, laundry or dishes, this concentrated, all-purpose, non-toxic cleaner, cuts dirt, grease & powerful yet gentle. Plant-based ingredients & cruelty-free.
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Search websites like UL Prospector for starting formulations. Also look at suppliers websites (e.g. Stepan, Colonial Chem etc). This will give you a good idea of what percentage of surfactants etc you will need and some basic manufacturing instructions.
Without sulfates it will be much more difficult to get good foaming (not impossible just more difficult). Are sulfonates acceptable?
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This sounds like there could be contamination in you filling machine. Has it been thoroughly cleaned between products.
If this is happening in less than 12 hours it is probably not microbial contamination.
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No sorry.
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Thanks for replying. I will put both lots of information together and see how we go. 🤞
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That is my understanding. Zinc oxide is not organic. It might be “natural” but not organic.
On page 15 of the standard it gives the following information.
6.2.2 Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin
Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin cannot be calculated as organic.Hope this helps. 🙂
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This review of preservatives from Making Skin care is a good start for looking at preservatives.
For lotions and creams I would probably start with PE9010 with sodium benzoate. If you have the ability to properly test your products (preservative efficacy testing) then you can try some of the other preservatives but pay careful attention to pH and use the hurdle approach for best results.
https://makingskincare.com/preservatives/
makingskincare.com
PreservativesAll you need to know!Learn how to preserve effectivelyCommon strategies chemists use to pass preservative testsPreservative free?True or false? Previous Next Free, online skincare formulation course from Chemists Corner, Swiftcraftymonkey and Making Skincare.As a first step to making your own … Continue reading
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I have seen bath salts made in something similar using a drum with baffles. It is my understanding that the baffles help with mixing.
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It was a number of years ago but I think the pH was between 6.5 and 7.0. It was the Phenostat preservative in a surfactant blend (possibly a body wash) in PET bottle with a pump.
Hopefully the Piroctone Olamine in your system will eliminate whatever the shortfall was in the CHA system when we tried it.