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Home Cosmetic Science Talk General Recommendations for Medium & Heavy Emolliency Esters or Hydrocarbons

  • Recommendations for Medium & Heavy Emolliency Esters or Hydrocarbons

    Posted by jemolian on December 17, 2020 at 2:16 am

    Does anyone has any recommendation for medium or heavy skin feel / emolliency esters or hydrocarbons? 

    I’m assuming they can be considered medium emolliency, so i’m currently testing with Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride & Triethylhexanoin. 

    For heavy emolliency, i’m testing with Olive Squalane. Still waiting for the sugar cane one to arrive. 

    jemolian replied 2 years, 1 month ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • ozgirl

    December 17, 2020 at 2:37 am
    I tried Supermol L (from Croda) (heavy emolliency) a while back and loved the skin feel in a cream. I’m not sure if it is available from resellers or in small quantities.
  • chemicalmatt

    December 17, 2020 at 7:26 pm

    Octyl Palmitate for heavy longer playtime, Isononyl Isononanoate or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate for anything else.

  • jemolian

    December 18, 2020 at 12:40 am

    Thanks for the recommendations. I’ll look into them. 

    For the Supermol L, i’ve looked into it yesterday but it seems that it’s not available to purchase though i’m not sure if Crodamol PTIS (Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate) would be a reasonable sub? 

    For the Isononyl Isononanoate, i’ve been using it as the light skin feel part of my ester mix already :) I’ve ordered some C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate as well, so i’ll have to compare it against the Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride & Triethylhexanoin when it arrives. Though looking at some charts comparing esters, they don’t mention C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate having any cushion to it?

  • Pattsi

    December 18, 2020 at 12:04 pm

    For me, I think Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is more of a texturizer than emollience, but it gives a heavy and rich skin feel.

    Triethylhexanoin, Octyl Palmitate - skin feel pretty similar with Octyl Palmitate a lot cheaper.

    Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate - balmy heavy.

    Isostearyl Isostearate - creamy heavy.

    Olive Squalane - too heavy on the cost.

  • jemolian

    December 18, 2020 at 12:17 pm

    Is Octyl Palmitate the same as Ethylhexyl Palmitate? Some places seem to mention that. 

    Indeed Squalane, both olive and sugar cane, seems to be much more expensive compared to other esters on 1688, can be double the price or higher. 

  • Pattsi

    December 19, 2020 at 1:32 pm

    Is Octyl Palmitate the same as Ethylhexyl Palmitate? - Yes, but I’m not a chemist so I’m not 100% sure, at least on our LOI it is Ethylhexyl Palmitate.

  • chemicalmatt

    December 21, 2020 at 7:03 pm


  • Belassi

    December 22, 2020 at 12:02 am

    If you really want to know properly, the thing is to try different esters. I’ve forgotten the name of the manufacturer for the moment… German sounding name… they supply a whole range of esters from one that is much lighter than water, to ones that are basically a grease. Obviously you don’t want to be asking for samples from all of them, but I got samples for about four of interest that I chose from their chart. They’re listed in order of viscosity. The lightest one is like water or lighter, certainly a lot lighter than eg capric/caprilic tri. The heaviest is like vaseline. As I hoped, it’s possible to craft a cream with the properties you desire, simply by choosing the correct combo.

  • jemolian

    December 22, 2020 at 1:25 am

    @Pattsi @chemicalmatt thanks for the confirmation

    @Belassi i’ll look into that and see if i can find the manufacturer. I do have some charts on hand that i’ve been comparing at the moment. Mainly from Alzo, BASF, Croda, Phoenix Chem (Pelemol series). Any example INCI that you have requested from them so perhaps i can pinpoint them more accurately?