Forum Replies Created

Page 2 of 2
  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 15, 2014 at 10:03 am in reply to: cosmetics that heal and improve, a discussion from the side of biology

    I tested the pH to check if it was within the range of activity of the added actives.

  • Marc

    I am a biologist, not a chemist, I tested my own susncreens when I doubted their own claims

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 11:21 pm in reply to: cosmetics that heal and improve, a discussion from the side of biology

    I can’t edit lol

    We never got niacinamide to have any effect on melanocytes on any ph over 6.5.

    And the salicilic acid on the sunscreen was for rosacea if I remember correctly. Which makes sense due to the anti inflammatory properties.

    Not sure how they avoided photosensitivity induced by the SA…

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 11:15 pm in reply to: Green colorants with skin benefits?

    @Marc

    These are mechanical exfoliants that are pretty ubiquitous :
    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/17173597/

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 10:42 pm in reply to: cosmetics that heal and improve, a discussion from the side of biology

    Sodium asxorbyl sulphate doesn’t seem to have enough research so far to support the same functions as other forms ( in our case for example, when we were testing vitamin c for media formulations that were serum free or fbs based this did not perform well so it was discarded)

    Lol I have no access to these sunscreen formulations, I empirically accessed the pH (yes they are all zinc based) when I had them with me. I just didn’t understand why those things were added if effectively did nothing.

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 10:07 pm in reply to: Vitamin C

    Yes.

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 10:06 pm in reply to: Green colorants with skin benefits?

    Mark, I will have to disagree with you

    -Jojoba has one of the lowest comedogenic indexes and it is together with mineral oil, kukui and neem one of the best tolerated by acneic skins

    - Regarding abrasives, I don’t know if you are using that as a tecnical term or the same way I understand it, anything that will help with keratinocite function will help, so, jojoba is both low comedogenic index and acceptable exfoliante given their bead sizes, and so are many of the kaolin and bentonite clays due to their sulphur content.

    Also I would consider abrasives, mandelic acid, glycolic acid, konjac sponges, Lactic Acid and the basic clarisonic and they are the some of the best resources for acneic skin.

  • All the physical sunscreens I got my hands on so far have a pH of 7 to 8 (roche, roc, aptonia, biore, innisfree, Nivea, avene, uriage, lierac, shiseido)

    Some of them had

    -Niacinamide

    -Vitamin c

    -Salicilic acid

    -retinol

    Which all required acid ph to actually work as actives.

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 8:38 pm in reply to: Instant Skin Tightening ingredient

    Depends of what you are looking for.

    If you want something that actually restructures the skin there is amazing research right now with creatine:

    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22151935

    I think beiersdorf is adding it to their creams or will or something of the like.

    Edit: did a mix up, it is ahava and Nivea that use them (Nivea still belongs to beiersdorf I think)

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 7:52 pm in reply to: Green colorants with skin benefits?

    It is exactly because you don’t know that you should not use it as a monetary leverage.

    The study shows that want seems to be a topical emulsion does when used post wash.

    I like my cosmetics to have supporting background, I just wish it wasn’t just a gamble of should or could.

    Would you be willing to sponsor a study showing that your cleanser with green tea has any advantage over non green tea formulated cleansers?

    Also, for the purpose of critical thinking, the study is very poorly designed, they are studying panthenol versus nothing, when it should be panthenol versus other known humectant. They have no positivecontrol which makes the study a bit moot. Not to mention that the test subjects did not apply placebo vs concentration test, they applied concentration test vs other concentration test, which means there was no control for any of the subjects.

    So I don’t quite understand, do you want to add these products to your cleanser because they are a formulation improvement or because they might be?

    It makes a huge difference for those on the consumer side.

    Panthenol needs to be shuttled through the cell membrane, needs to be converted from the alcohol for to the acid and finally needs to be shuttled to the mitochondria where it can act as a cofactor for co-enzymes. In the study they actually use a foam roller during the washes (I suppose to exfoliate the are to improve absorption post application). Some things just need a bit of time/right ph/right concentration. For the case of polyphenols I don’t think there is data for that.

    Jojoba beads would be a great add-on to the formula or even some forms of clay.

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 7:30 pm in reply to: Panthenol in pH 4 cleanser - any point?

    It was applied after the wash given that it is known to strip the skin.

    They strip the skin and then apply the active.

    You can check their methods.

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 6:47 pm in reply to: Green colorants with skin benefits?

    I am not arguing against the cleanser, just the green tea ah ah.

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 6:46 pm in reply to: Panthenol in pH 4 cleanser - any point?
  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 6:20 pm in reply to: Panthenol in pH 4 cleanser - any point?

    The biggest selling point of panthenol is its humectant properties and how over time they are able to draw moisture to the upper layers of the skin.

    A cleanser would not stay on the skin for long enough to have this effect. It would probably be Hard to keep it in the functioning range of 2-5% in a cleanser.

  • otherhalf

    Member
    December 14, 2014 at 6:06 pm in reply to: Green colorants with skin benefits?

    On average cleansers don’t stay on the skin for long enough to actually bring good benefits

    The most famous case in the field showed that you would have to leave the cleanser on for 2 minutes to have active effect.

    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/22777224/?i=8&from=facial%20cleansers

    There is no particular info on the case of green tea:

    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/25424055/?i=1&from=green%20tea%20topical%20skin

    In my opinion they would probably give you the same effect.

Page 2 of 2
Chemists Corner