OliviaLeigh
Forum Replies Created
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Thank you so much 🙏😊
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Thank you! I was a little unsure about the silica and whether I was using it properly … high shear may be the key … I want to use it in an O/W and already use rice starch which I do like … I reverted after being unsure of silica to using 1-2% arrowroot in the oil phase and 1-2% rice starch in the water phase… this was actually in a W/O formula I’ve been tirelessly working on, I have a lengthy discussion here on it… I will carry on but in no means will I be releasing it soon.. if at all! Maybe using silica in W/O was a problem too?? I do love it’s texture so far though … so, I divert! Yes, O/W I just want a high yet light oil/butter formula, nice and silky on application, hydrating with quick skin penetration (oils and butters have been carefully chosen) I use Coco-Caprylate-Caprate already, are there any other esters you’d recommend? Anything else I can add for the silky after feel?
Thanks 😊 -
@ngarayeva001 Omg I think you’re great! I’m becoming obsessed over this too, and in a way it’s been good because it’s helping me learn so much! so far it’s the texture I’ve loved and feel once it’s sunk in the skin … as was mentioned above maybe I’ve created another type of emulsion all together? Lasagna emulsion:D I’m going to take on board all you and everyone else has advised especially this amazing info you’ve just sent me now 🙏 and give it a last attempt and then turn it into a classic o/w … I’m sure I’ll be in touch again soon! 😁 Thank you 😊
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Ill have to make up the water phase and get back
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Thats when I was being a plonka1 I tried to check it like a normal O/W
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Hang on scrap that!
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last I checked I think it comes in at 5.3 …havent adjusted
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I usually use Preservative 12 ( Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin ) Just seen its called preservative E now! or Preservative Eco ( Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid ) I dont know if its just me but I prefer Pres E to Eco as I think Eco is a little irritating, nothing major - may have to move back to eco for cosmos certificate.
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Oh what to do? so Im going to add magnesium sulfate to the water stage, do i add the preservative too? Would packaging the balm in a tube help?
Thanks
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@ngarayeva001- Hi!
Hmmm I’m a stubborn experimenter but I fear you may be right! I wanted a balm like consistency, a luxurious type feel but using oils and balms with quick absorption rates and then adding the extra benefit of hyaluronic acid and glycerites - Ive just source a smaller molecule HA too, but as I design Ive also just started working my way though an advance cosmetic science formulating course im doing and Im finding more and more problems to overcome. What would you suggest? Thanks so much for you help. Olivia -
@Bill_Toge Thanks, just bought both…
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@Bill_Toge Hi Bill, I found this on Research Gate - Formulation and Analgesic Effect of Sodium Hyaluronate and Magnesium Sulfate Combination in Rats Following Intra-articular Injection: Hyaluronate Combined with Magnesium Sulfate for Rapid Analgesic Effect
Would this be okay to use in my formulation then?
I am getting better at understanding these papers but not 💯 confidant yet 😬
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@Bill_Toge Thank you! I’ve never used castor wax but sounds like something I’m going to like and need! I’ll update here once I’ve tried out the new formula, let everyone know how I got on. Thanks so much for your help
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@Bill_Toge I’m looking for castor wax now…
Hydrogenated Castor Oil are there any other hydrogenated oils I could use? Which would be the lightest on the skin? Also what percentage should I be working around? Thanks again -
@Bill_Toge Thank you, yes I’d also heard this and have bought some magnesium sulphate but was unsure agsin if it would be okay with the sodium hyaluronate acid jel?
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Hi Paprik Thanks for helping
So I was thinking (and hoping!) the butters, the fatty alcohol the candelilla wax and pg4-o would all work well together to create a good thick oil base.
I’ve added rice starch to the water phase which turns into a gel once hydrated as well as adding a nice consistency to the finished product - its not high enough in this formulation which doesn’t seem to be a problem.. yet 😃 but I think after discussions here i may up it to 4% and the arrow root in the oil phase to 2% - something like that.The candelilla wax goes on quite thick on application but I chose it because of its absorption rate which I find to be quite fast…This formula was created to be a hydrating anti-aging balm so I want it to feel rich hydrating but with a quick absorption and non comedogenic and no greasy after feel once massaged in well… a little goes a long way!
I forgot to say I add 0.1% Rosemary co2 as my antioxidant which goes in with the EOs -
Okay so here goes :#
Heated Oil phase 75
Cetearyl alcohol 5%
Candellia wax 5%
Rose wax 1.5%
Murumuru Butter 8%
Mango Butter 5%
Shea Butter 3%
Grapeseed Oil 16%
Camellia Oil 4%
Coco-caprylate-caprate 5%
Arrow Root 1%
Lecithin (sunflower) 2%
PG4-O 8%
Heated Water Phase 65
Hydrosol 20%
Distilled water 10%
Rice starch 1%
Glycerite 1.5%
Cool Down Phase 40
Preservative 12 1%
Sea Buckthorn CO2 0.5
Sodium Hyaluronate Gel 2.5 (1% HA)
Eo blend will be added later under 1%
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Hi ngarayeva001 Thank you so much, sending it over in a second:)
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Like the lasagna analogy, thanks
I’m working towards eventually setting up my own brand of products so how many months shelf life if I were to release this to market should I leave it? Maybe sticking to more conventional formulas would be wiser for the time being 🤔Still not sure if the HA is getting delivered properly in this Formula? So yes I could find cheaper options … Thanks! Have a good day, I’m having a big lab clear out and organise before the new ingredients arrive -
Thank you! It’s so interesting… sorry to ask yet another question but why would the cetearyl alcohol possibly change it to an O/W, if that’s what you mean …
I’ll try and lower the candelilla wax too, and gel more water with more HA powder, CW does have a high absorption rate so not too heavy, sticky or waxy, but could go down ..
How do I test my formulas conductivity? It’s turning into my little Frankenstein 🧟♂️😂
I have however bought some vegetal (not used before) and more olivem 1000, I’ve made decent moisturisers with it but hate the soaping/stickiness ( I use 5%) - I like my oils and butters! I have recently read you should combine it with GMS SE or similar and much lower % so I’ll try that …
Well thank you, you have answered more than what I asked which is so appreciated, these are all the things I need to know..
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The formulation has been stable at room temp now for nearly 2 months 🙂 I think I’m right in saying I need to add magnesium chloride if it is W/O to stabilise the water phase or still do this anyway as I’ve not done this yet… I was wondering if the sodium hyaluronic acid is helping to stabilise the water phase in any way?
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… I mean I just want to make the best moisturiser in the world… it’s not much to ask is it ? 😏 Thank you both for your help it can be quite lonely doing this alone and hard! But I love it
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Thanks!! Googling! 😁 I use the pg4-o with cetearyl alcohol 5% candelilla wax 5% Coco-Caprylate-Caprate 5% lecithin 2% rice and arrow starch, various fast absorption rate oils and butters … 30% hydrosol (not 40%) a glycerate at 1.5% HA at 2.5% eo blend and a preservative
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Thank you, I’m learning every day and this is my absolute passion, your advice is really appreciated 😊 I do like the texture and feel I worked hard on my ingredient profile and it feels rich but absorbs quickly and doesn’t sit heavy …I am so two minds about it, maybe less expensive water phase ingredients if they are compromised but more for texture and function … If I was to stick to this W/o how could I optimise it’s skin hydrating benefits? Thank you again
