[olga]

Hi there! Are you talking about DIY project? 
Try this simple way first: mica (60-120 mkm)+8%zinc stearate (you do not need 2 dry binders) + some oildimethicone micture (about 15% for the consistency of wet sand). Thats all. Than press it with the hands or some hand press (or a vise). You also need a pressing tile or press form (You coud by some even from amazonaliexpresstkb store). 
Than You could experiment with % of oil phase and other. 
Basically mica is great ingredient and performs good on skin by itself. But it could depend on pigment itself - size, color, producer. More the size of particles - the more binder you need (zink stearate, oil phase).
And no alcohol!

[olga]

Bobzchemist said:

Baking process is just hot enough to evaporate water efficiently. Must be determined by trial and error experimentation.

If you use the process above, you could use any water soluble ingredient, come to think of it, even parabens.

The typical commercial pressed powder process produces thousands of pieces an hour, or more. The original slurry processes all tried to match that speed, so that the water in the slurry was essentially vacuumed away - and with it went all the parabens and other water soluble ingredients. The costs involved with the slurry process killed this technology for about 20-30 years - until the “baked makeup” process came along. That disk they are putting in below the slurry is the key to solving all the slurry problems we used to have, by the way. Very high tech stuff.

Hi, I know that it’s 5 years since the topic started, but there is not much on the pressed powders. 
Is it ok for example (for DIY just for yuorfelf) to use cyclomethicone to make the process of mixing pigment and oils (with dimethicone) more easy, and than to heat the pressed powder up in order to evaporate cyclomethicone quickly (or just wait)?

[olga]

chickenskin said:

@Chemistrygirl I am referring to ‘Baked cosmetics’.  Where do I research this?  Google is coming up dry.  Thank you

have you found something since 2019? I am also interested)

[olga]

ngarayeva001 said:

By the way, you can often see isododecane in cream eyeshadows and there is no way you can use the whole pot because they dry out and become unusable as isododecane evaporates (it is also volatile). Example: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/makeup/p/eyes/eyeshadows/ombre-premiere-longwear-cream-eyeshadow-p176802.html#skuid-0176804

So, I would think that volatile substances should be avoided in eyeshadows and powders. 

Regarding Trimethylsiloxysilicate it’s a must-have for makeup. It is a very nice film former that makes makeup long-lasting. I haven’t seen it in powders but it’s used a lot in foundations, concealers, lipsticks and similar. It comes in powder form as well as diluted in Cyclopentasiloxane to isododecane.

Thank you for a useful comment!

[olga]

Sponge said:

Cyclomethicones do in fact evaporate so they’d likely be of little use to pressed powder.

You’d definitely need to be more specific with your needs to find additives that may help you formulation. Ideally with formulation ingredients and percentages. 

Lowering the oil/liquid binder content may improve creasing. 

I have different formulas, so question is more general) thank you for suggestion and answer!!)). I have seen in some commercial products (powder foundation, eyeshadows) that I like cyclomethicones, but in the end of ingredient list. Is that possible that they use them just to make manufacturing easier?
“Lowering the oil/liquid binder content may improve creasing. ” - yes, I guess there should be some balance betweet creamy and nice texture and crease resistance. But for the other hand - there are liquid eyeshadows and primers, that are silicone-based, they form thin film on skin and improme crease resistanse and make product last longer) 

[olga]

ketchito said:

@olga You definitely need to try elastomeric silicones. I used this one in the past, but there are many others from different suppliers (Dow, Grant, Wacker, etc.): https://www.essence-plus.com/essence-plus689/program_download/good/20161011160929872.pdf

In fact, I have this one (silicone powder), becouse it’s easy to obtain in some local inthernet shops) Will try this one) I think that will be good for powder foundation)

[olga]

seaberry said:

I’m not sure if this would work for your intentions, but you might want to explore Pentsia powder (INCI: Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer), which looks like it has some very useful properties for powders and eyeshadow. 

Thank you very much=)

[olga]

ketchito said:

@olga You definitely need to try elastomeric silicones. I used this one in the past, but there are many others from different suppliers (Dow, Grant, Wacker, etc.): https://www.essence-plus.com/essence-plus689/program_download/good/20161011160929872.pdf

Thank you!