[Nthabi_joy]

ngarayeva001 said:

There are emulsifiers that allow incorporating small amounts of water to oil based formula. The same way as polysorbate 20 is used to incorporate small amounts of oil into a water solution. The only one that comes to my mind is lecitin, but I am sure there’s more.

Thank you. I’ll have to do some searching to try and find them out

[Nthabi_joy]

JonahRay said:

I’ve used polyglycerol esters  such as Polygycerol-10 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides as a way to dissolve small amounts of water soluble actives into oils.

Thank you Jonah I shall try that ingredient.JonahRay said:

I’ve used polyglycerol esters  such as Polygycerol-10 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides as a way to dissolve small amounts of water soluble actives into oils.

[Nthabi_joy]

Fekher said:

@Nthabi_joy i don’t think  it is possible without emulsifier .

Hmmm so you’re thinking I’d have to introduce water to make a lotion?

[Nthabi_joy]

ngarayeva001 said:

Cetearyl alcohol is a thickener and it will form a lotion even at 2%. I can share my successful detangling spray formula:

INCI	%
Aqua	77.2%
Amodimethicone	8.0%
PEG-8 Dimethicone	7.0%
Polyquat 7	1.5%
Cetrimonium Chloride	2.0%
Propanediol	2.0%
Lavender EO	0.3%
PEG-40 HCO	1.0%
Germaben II	1.0%

Either polyquat 7 or quat 80. Both work well. You can also replace polyquat 7 to polyquat 10 (which I personally like more) but it will be more viscous and you will need a pump bottle, not a sprayer bottle. This spray is water-soluble and all ingredients can be found on either lotioncrafter or makingcosmetics. It is quite strong, you don’t need too much of it.

Cetrimonium is 30%, and amodimethicone is watersoluble (it’s mixed with an emulsifier). 

Thank you so much for this ☺️

Once i I have the received the ingredients I will let you know how it went ☺️

[Nthabi_joy]

Nthabi_joy said:

Hi Everyone.
Apologies in advance if this post is too long. I am in need of you help please. I have been toying with a sorayable leave in conditioner for quite a while now and although it feels great in the hair, the stability is the issue as it always separates.

This is my starter formula(which I tweaked this morning and will share results below)

Phase A
Water         80%
glycerine     2%
Cetrimonimum chloride 1%
Phase B
Crodazoquat MCC   4%
isoamyl laureate        1%
Lexfeel N5.                1%
Olive oil water soluble 2%
Phase C
goat milk hydrolysate.  1%
keratin.                         1%
Dpanthenol.                  1%
slippery elm.                 1%
marshmallow root.        1%
bamboo biofermment.   1%
floral fragrance.             1%
versatil BOB.                  1%
citric acid.                       1%

This formula didn’t emulsify. It separated and obviously unstable.
This morning I tweaked the formula a little in the following way:
Added cetearyl alcohol at 2%
Added Cetyl alcohol 1%
Reduced water to 77%

this made a very nice formula that appears stable and it has been 3hours now. However it thickened it considerably and its now like a thin lotion (which is great except I have to use a lotion pump and not a spray pump). This little accident reminds me of a Combing Cream and I shall keep this formula to make a Damage Repair cream or a Moisture cream. But the question still remains how to inmake a spray leave in detangler that is stable.

I’d appreciate any advice, input or thoughts to make my formula more stable…. I’d like a spray that hydrates, softens and detangles

Update on this formula (before I bin it as a bad formula - if theres such a thing)

Because I only have Crodazoquat and Cetearyl Alcohol to work with at the moment, I tried my best to try and fix this product.

I reduced the Crodazoquat MCC to 2%
Cetearyl Alcohol to 2%
Olive oil 1%
Glycerine 1%
Removed all the other ingredients and added the remainder to water.

when i made just one product it cme out fine and is still stable no separation. I then tried a bigger batch and made 3 products, dissapointingly these came out again as a lotion.

[Nthabi_joy]

ngarayeva001 said:

you can add all of that fairy dust (keratin, milk, panthenol) for claims, but keep it below 1% all together (not 1% each).

ngarayeva001 said:

Too many ingredients. Water, cetrimonium chloride, polyq 7 or quat 80, preservative, fragrance and solubilizer will do what you want. I would say polyquat 10 but that won’t spray. If you want to make it even better add amodimethicone. Keep crodazoquat for a creamy consistency product.

Thank you so much for your input. I will be ordering the polyquat 80 soon as I can

 I formulate mainly for myself and my daughters but even so I like to make great “near professional” products. I will consider removing the other ingredients and keep it simpler.

Unfortunately, at present I don’t have access to any Polyquats. I do however have VisCaress HPD but when I add oil it turns to a cream. 

Perhaps the oil is the issue? Would it make any difference to stability if I reduced it to 1% OR removed altogether 

In place of demithecone would Lexfeel N5 be a suitable alternative?

[Nthabi_joy]

Christopher said:

I’ve seen Isoamyl laurate and LexFeel® Natural (Heptyl Undecylenate) touted as “natural” alternatives to silicone, haven’t tried em myself though.

I’ve had my eye on the Lexfeel range as well. Would you say Lexfeel N series might also be alternative to silicone? And is the Lexfeel N series truly natural?

ive also seen reports that bamboo biofermment or bamboo extract is a natural alternative though not too sure.

[Nthabi_joy]

Hello Everyone 

I’ve been dabbling in DIY cosmetics for quite a while now because I find it fun and interesting. I’m mainly self taught without much formal instruction however, I’ve since learned to make some cool stuff and some are colossal flops. Looking forward to sharing, learning and contributing where possible. Excited to be part of the community ?