[ngarayeva001]

@Gunther, I checked my formula, 70% of CAPB not 80%, which is 7% of the formula. It is not sticky at all. It’s tear-free gentle facewash with total concentration of surfactants of 10%. I think you might have too much of decyl glucoside.

INCI	%	%WW of surfactants	Actual concentration
Aqua	62.9%
Tetrasodium EDTA	0.1%
Glycerin	10.0%
Cocamidopropyl Betaine	20.0%	35.0%	7.0%
Decyl Glucoside	2.0%	63.0%	1.3%
Coco Glucoside	4.0%	50.0%	2.0%
Paraben DU	1.0%
Citric Acid	QS

[ngarayeva001]

I really dislike smell of phenoxyethanol. @Jdawgswife76, it’s very difficult to preserve clay based product. It deactivates phenoxyethanol and some other preservatives. I recently bought phenonip, it’s phenoxyethanol and a mix of several parabens. Should be a very strong preservative, but haven’t tested yet.

[ngarayeva001]

If you want it to be an emulsion use the same logic but you need oil phase. Say 1% of shea butter, 3% of jojoba oil (or squalane) and non thickening emulsifier. For example glyceryl stearate/peg100 stearate and something to decrease hlb, for example sorbitan oleate (because shea is 6, jojoba is 7 if I remember correctly, and emulsifiyers mix above is 11). Don’t use polysorbate 60, or glyceryl oleate.

[ngarayeva001]

Out of these 3, silk powder (proteins, amino acids) doesn’t do much and smells terribly. You will need tons of perfume to suppress this smell. Pathenol - doesn’t really do anything though you can use  a little (0.5%). Niacinamide- great ingredient that is proven to have skin benefits  by many studies. Good amount is 5%. My advice is add 5% of Niacinamide and 0.5% of panthenol in your waterphase (don’t forget your chelator, use tetrasodium EDTA to keep it transparent and watersolubld preservative), add something around 0.3% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and leave it in peace for 3 hours. Then mix it well (with a spatula, you don’t need special instruments) and call it vitamin b serum. If it’s too thin for you, just add more HA and mix again.

[ngarayeva001]

Stick blender is the worst way to mix your product. Either buy a cheap Chinese overhead stirrer (they can be as cheap as 80 usd) or make tiny batches and mix them with a paint mini mixer. If you are serious about this hobby get an overhead stirrer.

[ngarayeva001]

@Gunther, I dont think so. I am making a similar product. Total active surfactants 10%, out of which 80% is CAPB. Remaining is coco glucoside and decyl glucoside. Also in a foaming bottle, and preserved with parabens. Maybe you are using too much of decyl glucoside?

[ngarayeva001]

This list isn’t long. It’s pretty typical for a commercial product. There’s nothing particularly beneficial for skin under eyes in this formula. The reason why it’s ‘well regarded’ is presence of silicones and polymers that give it a nice slip and pleasant application. There’s also alcohol, that assured fast absorbtion (and makes skin under eyes dry). This product doesn’t do much.

[ngarayeva001]

Thank you @Perry. I searched for GMS in ulprospector and the first thing in the list was some lipophilic mica. Maybe GMS isn’t performing well with high HLB fatty alcohols and that causes changes in viscosity?

[ngarayeva001]

LAA oxideses in water in just several weeks. This formula would be good if it had more Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and no LAA.

[ngarayeva001]

 What is ‘croda’? What type of carbopol? What is GMS? Where’s your emulsifier? I see fatty acids but no oils, is it intentional? Not enough information but the most probable cause is wrong/not enough of emulsifier or absence of one. Also I assume you just didn’t list your preservatives right?

[ngarayeva001]

I agree it does decrease viscosity significantly  but it makes the product better. I am still experimenting with it. The texture is nice if you add enough oils, but performance is worse.

[ngarayeva001]

I suspect it’s just easier to pronounce parabens, sulfates, or silicones than isothiazolinones.

[ngarayeva001]

All these anti-cellulite products come with a recommendation
to massage them into skin for X number of minutes. If they do anything it’s a temporary
lymphatic drainage effect. Cellulite is genetic, as well as under eye dark circles
and pores. And no cosmetics is going to help with it.

[ngarayeva001]

This article says “In accordance with the above, Cu-GHK, a peptide found in human serum and cerebrospinal fluid that strongly binds copper, increases protein synthesis of collagen and elastin”

So, it is referring to copper peptide.

[ngarayeva001]

I don’t have much experience with babassu oil but shea butter is commonly used in commercial products for under eye area. By the way a little of petrolatum would not hurt either if you don’t mind it. Regarding rosehip oil, I like it a lot but it is too prone to oxidation. Jojoba, squalane and shea butter is a good combination.

[ngarayeva001]

@Dtdang I didn’t notice any effect at all, but I suspect that the material I have is very diluted.

[ngarayeva001]

I have one from makingcosmetics mixed with glycerin and I suspect it’s as diluted as their resveratrol..

[ngarayeva001]

Isn’t it better to have both BTMS and centrimonium chloride is together?

[ngarayeva001]

Go to makingcosmetics and select polymer emulsifiers. They are used alone to form a gel or together with conventional emulsifiyers and fatty acids as rheology modifiyers. Sepinov EMT is my favorite (but it’s lotioncrafter). Aristoflex AVC - great texture but doesn’t tolerate electrolytes. Sepiplus 400 and Emulthix are more ‘silicony’. GelMaker EMU is super easy to use and relatively electrolyte resistant. I ordered GelMaker Rheo but it will be delivered next week. I will let you know if it’s good or not. In general polymer emulsifiers are great. No soaping, no need for silicones, much better texture.

[ngarayeva001]

I said to close it from sanitary point of view.

[ngarayeva001]

Depends on the amount and a method. Add it to the vortex, leave for a couple of hours and mix again. Just make sure you added a preservative and don’t leave your lotion opened before second mixing.

[ngarayeva001]

@Jdawgswife76 chelating agents are used to bind electrolytes in your water, which is crucial if you are working with electrolytes sensitive ingredients. Chelating agents are not conditioners. I gave several examples of conditioning ingredients above.

[ngarayeva001]

@Dtdang I am not saying to stay away from it. It’s pretty useful if you are making a hair mask or hair conditioner, all I am saying you need to be careful when adding other ingredients because if you mix it with something anionic or amphoteric where pH is higher than 7 you will destabilize your emulsion. 

[ngarayeva001]

@Dtdang, I guess you have access to makincosmetics (CremMaker green coffee is their product). I have many emulsifiers that I like. If you don’t want to deal with soaping effects and silicones use polymer emulsifiers. Makingcosmetics has GelMaker EMU. It’s super easy to use and it tolerates electrolytes better than many of emulsifiers (even sepiplus 400). I also love Sepinov EMT sold by lotioncrafter but it’s less ‘easygoing’ you need to watch what are you adding to your formula. They both can be used as the only emulsifiers or you can add them to a conventional formula as rheology modifiers. If you want to add silicony slip without silicones it’s sepiplus 400. There’s also emulthix but it’s based on dimethicone polymers.

[ngarayeva001]

@Gunther, unfortunately for me dark circles are genetic. I had them since I remember myself and now my young daughter (who looks very much like me) has them. So dark circles are very much like pores.  The only thing that can be done is preventing them from getting worse, which is using sunscreen. Regarding whiteners, you will not find them in comercial products marketed for eyes, for a very simple reason, they often irritate thin skin around eyes.