ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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0.3% of xantham is enough. Do you have access to glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate emulsifiers blend? It works like a charm.
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Cetearyl alcohol is a thickener and it will form a lotion even at 2%. I can share my successful detangling spray formula:
INCI % Aqua 77.2% Amodimethicone 8.0% PEG-8 Dimethicone 7.0% Polyquat 7 1.5% Cetrimonium Chloride 2.0% Propanediol 2.0% Lavender EO 0.3% PEG-40 HCO 1.0% Germaben II 1.0% Either polyquat 7 or quat 80. Both work well. You can also replace polyquat 7 to polyquat 10 (which I personally like more) but it will be more viscous and you will need a pump bottle, not a sprayer bottle. This spray is water-soluble and all ingredients can be found on either lotioncrafter or makingcosmetics. It is quite strong, you don’t need too much of it.
Cetrimonium is 30%, and amodimethicone is watersoluble (it’s mixed with an emulsifier).
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Example of a simple makeup removing balm:
INCIPercentage to be used Mineral oil 61.65% Cetearyl alcohol and PEG-20 Stearate 10.00% PEG-40 HCO 12.00% Stearic acid 10.00% Cetyl Alcohol 5.00% Mix of essential oils 0.50% Preservative 0.75% You can replace steric acid and cetyl alcohol to 15%-20% of polyethene and it will be hard enough to form a stick
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you can add all of that fairy dust (keratin, milk, panthenol) for claims, but keep it below 1% all together (not 1% each).
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Too many ingredients. Water, cetrimonium chloride, polyq 7 or quat 80, preservative, fragrance and solubilizer will do what you want. I would say polyquat 10 but that won’t spray. If you want to make it even better add amodimethicone. Keep crodazoquat for a creamy consistency product.
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You don’t need to wash face again with a property formulated balm. Cithrol is an emulsifier. I said mineral oil as an example, use any liquid oil. Butylene glycol is a humectant. It’s not required.
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And you definitely don’t need soap in it. You need an oil to dissolve make up and an emulsifier that will allow to rinse the oil off.
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Is it your formula or you have a benchmark? You can make a generic make up removing balm of mineral oil Cithrol GTIS and polyethylene. Add more polyethylene and it will be hard enough for form a stick. You don’t need any water at all.
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I wonder if the same logic (pH balanced mild surfactants and water) would work for cats?
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@Gunther exactly! I add a tiny amount of decyl glucoside to boost the foam but I didn’t know its used as a primary surfactant. It’s however considered quite mild based on zein test.
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I like a combination of coco caprylate, isopropyl myristate and ethylhexyl palmitate.
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What product is it? Doesn’t look like a moisturizer. You will find esters in the most of luxury moisturizers in the market. The application changes drastically. I can see isopropyl mirystate in the LOI you posted. It’s as thin as water and has a fantastic spreadability. Coco caprylate should be volatile. If you want to see the difference: isopropyl myristate, coco caprylate, propanediol dicaprylate, caprylic/capric triglycerides. You can still add oils for claims.
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@Perry snails are put on a mesh net. They leave the slime as they move and then slime is collected from that net. I was a fan of K-beauty before I started formulating (thus I investigated the topic), but the idea of putting slime on my face never sat well with me.
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If you are looking for a small amount:
http://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb/bava-di-lumaca
They have international shipping.
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Polyquat 10 is made of HEC, so keep in mind that it will thicken your formula. Looking at the ingredients I assume it’s thick enough. My suggestion is: up polyquat 7 to 2% and add 0.5% of polyquat 10. Conditioners are great but you don’t really want to add more than 2.5-3%. You can also add some watersoluble silicone (PEG-8 Dimethicone), watersoluble oils (PEG-50 shea butter) and if you still don’t like it, increase CAPB and decrease other surfactants (but keep total active ingredients at 15%).
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Why decyl glucoside? It has high pH. Isn’t CAPB a better and milder option? CAPB and Olefin Sulfonate are available on the DIY market.
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I can’t find easinov but I have Sepiplus 400. It’s a good cold process emulsifier. I wouldn’t say that it can tolerate high amount of electrolytes as the manufacturer claims, but it’s easy to use and give a very nice silicony afterfeel.
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Also, don’t want to disappoint you but veg oils don’t provide any real benefits. So esters, synthetic oils and petrolatum is a way to go. You can add a tiny amount of veg oil as a claim ingredient. Check what luxury skincare brands do: esters, petrolatum and butirospermum parkii butter somewhere near 1% line (shiseido, guerlain, SK-II, etc)
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Esters are a whole new world. There are many of them and they have different properties. Benefits: they are not prone to oxidation, they don’t vary in properties as much as vegetable oils (c12-15 alkyl benzoate will be the same while, say, rosehip oil from different suppliers can have different color and viscosity), and they have MUCH better spreadability. I don’t think you can replace silicones by anything else. What they mean by alternative is probably that some esters are volatile like some silicones and you can use a volatile ester in place of a volatile silicone. I am not aware of the existence of volatile veg oil.
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Sorry it showed as 3.1% on my phone. But I think any amount of hydroquinone is not safe for a beginner. Start from simple products and then move to actives.
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Depends on the material. For example Empilan DPHS requires both magnesium sulfate and magnesium stearate. If you skip magnesium stearate it will still emulsify but viscosity changes dramatically.
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@Doreen because
-some of the materials have to be processed in a particular way (adding water by drops),
-not a lot of information can be found online,
-not too many good materials are available on DIY market (#wouldkillforeasinov :smiley: )
- not too many oil compatible thickeners
- some formulations are sensitive to processing (visocity changes depending on the temperature when phases were combined).This is my experience. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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@Gunther, I bought some magnesium stearate as it is required to stabilise a formulation (W/O material as per the supplier). But I have way too much, so trying to figure out what other application it has. I suspect it will decrease viscosity of polymers as it reads like salt to me. Would be great if you can share your experiece.
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If your goal
is to make your face falling off then it will work. Are you making a nuclear
bomb or what? Your formula isn’t equal 100% and you are trying to make a
concoction with 3% of hydroquinone and tretinoin (how much?). These are not
toys. Learn how to make simple o/w lotions first then move to actives. I am not
even sure you can buy tretinoin and hydroquinone. -
@em88, agree. I was thinking about high internal phase W/O emulsions.