Forum Replies Created

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  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 6, 2019 at 9:08 pm in reply to: Source for Ceteareth-30 in Canada or North America?

    You can buy 1 kg in Australia:

    https://trulux.com.au/eumulgin-b-3-ceteareth-30

    They have many interesting ingredients that I cannot find anywhere else.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 5, 2019 at 9:05 pm in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    Thank you @Pharma. I will try to add glyceryl stearate SE for the anionic. Regarding your questions, I think it should be w/si because I use w/si emulsifier but I know chemistry doest always work this way.
     I can add up to 10% of the custom blend before it breaks. The blend is iron oxides and TiO2 in octyldodecanol. The below 40 homogenisation is a stick blender (I process the emulsion on the overhead stirrer). Without pigments the emulsion is liquid and gets the viscosity ones I apply stick blender.
     I continue working on it and ordered more ingredients for making foundations recently. Hopefully I will get there at some point 🙂
    I wonder if there are any more or less simplified materials about making w/si emulsions except for ulprospector.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 5, 2019 at 7:12 pm in reply to: Less slippery handwash

    Your formula is fine, what is not fine is the expectation. If they want the drying alkaline soap effect, you should make KOH liquid soap. The product made with synthetic detergents will not feel like soap, and this is actually great.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 5, 2019 at 8:35 am in reply to: Natural/Organic gel eyeliner not drying

    It’s a balm not a gel. I don’t see any reason why it doesn’t smudge (no film formers). Have you tested the benchmark? I am quite sure it smudges too.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 4, 2019 at 8:22 am in reply to: Developing a toner

    A toner is a marketing term. First toners contained alcohol. Later (mid 90’s) they started including surfactants and became additional step after cleansing milk (to remove residue left by the cleansing milk). Nowadays toner is nothing more but a liquid serum (water, some extract for claims and glycerin). It is a moisturising product. So you should decide what your product is supposed to do, cleaning or moisturising. Adding oil and surfactant will make it a cleansing product.

    What is aloe vera extract? Is it something like aloe vera x 200 or it’s aloe vera juice?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 2, 2019 at 3:37 pm in reply to: Natural Nappy Balm?

    @Microformulation, you would then enjoy this article about cancirogens in skincare that would be allowed in the UK right after Brexit written by a freelance journalist and feminist campaigner:

    https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2019/jan/08/carcinogens-cosmetics-brexit-britain-eu-makeup

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 2, 2019 at 11:49 am in reply to: Natural Nappy Balm?

    Look how simple: https://www.aveeno.co.uk/products/baby-daily-care-barrier-cream#ingredients

    Just 5 ingredients!

    Paraffinum Liquidum, Zinc Oxide, Polyethylene, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Sorbitan Isostearate

    Paraffinum Liquidum - because it is safe, doesn’t cause allergies, and you don’t need to think about anti-oxidants.
    Polyethylene - because it’s simple, safe, effective thickener for non-polar oils. Doesn’t cause allergies.
    Avena Sativa Kernel Flour - doesn’t do much. It’s a claim ingredient. You can do exactly the same thing. Make a stable, clean and cost efficient product and add whatever claim ingredint you want.
    Safety for consumer must be your first priority.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 2, 2019 at 11:39 am in reply to: Natural Nappy Balm?

    @PetalPoppet2309, if they are selling products containing water withouht preservatives they are either 1) haven’t disclosed the full LOI and thus breached the regulations or 2) their products are not safe.
    Please check mothercare and aveeno baby products. Large brands are much better as a benchmark.

    I saw small brands listing Emulsifying Wax NF in the LOI. They are just using the fact they are too small and regulators won’t bother.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 2, 2019 at 9:23 am in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    @Pharma, you got me thinking… I can only see three emulsifiers in the formula (at least that was my intention): PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate, what are the other two? Are you referring to the cera bellina because it’s a PEG?

    Regarding electrolytes, the supplier recommends adding electrolytes to stabilise PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate. I don’t like magnesium sulfate, so replaced it with bunch of others. I will try to reduce them. Regarding a microscope, may I ask you to advice what do I need? If something small and not too pricey is suffient for seing droplets shape I will get it. Apologies for my ignorance but I don’t even know what zoom do I need..

    By the way thank you very much for your input in my threads as well as in others. It’s great to have a pharmacist who is willing to share their knowledge. You motivated me to dive deeper into a couple of important topics (pH buffers) which clearly made me a little less of a dilettante.

  • https://trulux.com.au/eumulgin-b-3-ceteareth-30/

    Ceteareth 30 in DIY quantities.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 1, 2019 at 9:32 am in reply to: Beauty cream’s color changes problem

    Or maybe you didn’t use enough preservatives. Again impossible to tell withouht the  formula.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 1, 2019 at 9:32 am in reply to: Beauty cream’s color changes problem

    It is impossible to help until you provide the formula. Parabens usually don’t cause color change. It’s something else.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 1, 2019 at 9:26 am in reply to: Problem with btms-50 need HELP

    The only way to hide the smell is up your fragrance. As Doreen said cationics do smell. Cetrimonium Chloride is not better. I usually add 0.7% of lavender EO to my conditioners to get rid of the smell.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 1, 2019 at 9:15 am in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    @Pharma, the concentration of my pigment blend is 10% (50% pigments, 50% octyldodecanol). The same formula (all other inputs are the same) where I added 10% octyldodecanol to the oilphase and 10% of dry pigments didn’t break. But those dry pigments were for soap making (uncoated and poor quality). I did that as an experiment to see what happens. 
    I didn’t calculate HLB as I was hoping that since I use a blend of 3 emulsifiers I should be covered.

    I made another batch on Friday and added pigments in octyldodecanol to the oil phase. Didn’t separate so far, but it’s water thin.

    To summarise my problem: I want to achieve a high viscosity foundation. The base has high viscosity without pigments. When pigments added after emulsification, the viscosity stays high but the product separates (within an hour!) when pigments are added to the oil phase, it stays together but it’s water thin.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 30, 2019 at 7:02 pm in reply to: Retinol

     I use 3% of retinol in liposomes with a concentration of 3 million IU per gram. It causes moderate peeling which is normal.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 30, 2019 at 12:17 pm in reply to: Add Polyquaternium-10 at the beginning or at the end?

    Yes, you can add it in the end. You can slurry it in glycerin like xanthan. Regarding how much water, don’t worry if you have clumps. Leave the shampoo overnight and PQ10 will hydrate.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 30, 2019 at 9:17 am in reply to: Problem with btms-50 need HELP

     All conditioners smell if you don’t add fragrance.

  • Unfortunately all these test show different results. Zein protein chart is different from HET-CAM chart and I don’t know which one is more accurate.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 28, 2019 at 5:14 pm in reply to: Am using hec as a thickiner for shower gel

    Probably because you have too much in your formula already and adding more brings the salt curve down. Some surfactants have salts in them already but it’s impossible to say anything without seeing what’s in your formula.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 28, 2019 at 5:09 pm in reply to: Retinol

    It makes the skin peel badly. That’s the reason why I start using it and give up very quickly. I understand it’s not tretinoin but it has some effect.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 28, 2019 at 5:04 pm in reply to: Glucono-δ-lactone as chelating agent

    @Pharma, I bought it as a PHA and can’t find information about its chelating properties. Do you know the average usage (Disodium EDTA is 0.1-0.2%) by any chance?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 28, 2019 at 1:31 pm in reply to: Glucono-δ-lactone as chelating agent

    I also would like to know the answer. I use it as PHA in a toner but it would be great if I could use it as a chelator, as I have to get EDTA from the US.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 28, 2019 at 11:10 am in reply to: CHEMIST FOR A STARTUP COMPANY

    Responding to this question, cosmetic chemists usually specialise. You can find a chemist here:

    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/137/need-formulating-services-here-are-some-contacts#latest

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 28, 2019 at 9:30 am in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    An update: I tried to emulsify pigment blend separately with Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate and 5% of water and added to the main batch after emulsification (So I basically made one concentrated W/O emulsion with pigments and one W/Si emulsion without pigments). Separated again….

    What is really annoying is that the same formula works perfectly with 20% of mineral pigment blend. I am referring to untreated TiO2 and iron oxides, that are not good for a foundation for obvious reasons. My first prototype that I made in late March is still stable..
    Regarding the stick blender, although I undertand that it’s not very professional to use it, I don’t think it’s the cause of the separation. I made several W/O and W/Si using it and they don’t separate (at least at the room temperature). Everthing is ok until I add those pigments wetted in octyldodecanol…

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 27, 2019 at 1:13 pm in reply to: Looking for some advice on my first lotion formula.

    When you have bug food in your formula and make it in your kitchen you should use very strong preservation system: Germaben II, Germall Plus, or Phenonip + EDTA.
    When you use vegetable oil you need an antioxidant: BHA, BHT or at least tocopherol (not the acetate form).

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