ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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By the way if your market is more influenced by the Asian rather than European (French) trends, a toner can be slightly thickened as well. Example:
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To be honest it all looks fine. The only two things to add, silk amino acids smell absolutely dreadful. See if you are ok with it. Otherwise you might want to add a knock out fragrance to hide that smell.
You have a lot of ingredients that represent significant challenge for preservation system. I am not saying it will happen but don’t get surprised if your preservative fails on the mold side. It’s not a bad preservative, but it can fail sometimes when formula has too much bug food. Good luck in the lab. -
There is a limit. Your salt curve will go down and you lose all viscosity. You need to do the analysis and find the peak
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It’s quite mild and surprisingly cheap (at least in the UK). Have a look at OGX shampoos. Mostly olefin sulfonate, SCI and CAPB
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If you have actives that you want to use but they break carbomer, use them in toner.
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I have 2C hair type (which are also chemically treated and severely damaged) and glucosides make rat nest in my hair. Can’t even imagine applying them to kinky hair. Have you tried Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate or Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate. These work nice as primary surfactants with SCI as a co-surfactant.
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I managed to make relatively stable custom emulsifier blend (calculating HLB):
Phase INCI % A Aqua 74.45% A Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20% A Glycerine 1.00% A Butylene Glycol 2.00% A Ultrez 20 0.30% A Propanediol 1.00% B Jojoba 4.00% B Butyrospermum parkii butter 3.00% B Squalane 1.00% B Tocopherol 0.10% B Tocopheryl Acetate 0.75% B Sorbitan Oleate 1.00% B Glyceryl Oleate 4.00% B Polysorbate 60 2.00% C Retinol 2.00% C Bisabolol 0.20% C PEG-8 Dimethicone 2.00% C Germaben II 1.00% TEA to pH 6.5
But you see, my total oil phase is 11% (with retinol). You have much higher oil phase.
Keep that HCO, it acts as a stabiliser.
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I actually suggest finding Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate (aka Arlacel 165) and your problem will be gone.
Regarding preservatives, I really like Germaben II. But it’s comprised of parabens and formaldehyde releasers if that’s ok with you.You see.. polysorbates, PEG-40 HCO, those all are solubilisers. Their function is to make clear microemulsions with tiny amount of oil, not being emulsifiers. Polysorbate 60 is relatively suitable for this. Again my suggestion is to go with a commercial blend.
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Yes, I need to get rid of that siligel first of all. Then probably ceramides and niacinamide.. maybe bisabolol. Everything else looks less suspicious. Thank you again.
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@Doreen, pump bottle. It’s however transparent PET plastic.
Thank you for an idea Mark. I will try a combination of antioxidants. -
Yes, the presence of a thickener in the first one. These all are marketing terms. Same about essences, elixirs, and other fancy terms.
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Too much oil for a self made emulsification system. You can add 50% (or even more) if you are using commercial blends such as Arlacel 165. I am not sure that Poly 80 will hold 20%+ oil phase. Glyceryl Stearate is a thickener and co-emulsifier if it’s not SE version.
Another question, isn’t it soaping upon application?
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@MarkBroussard, I had high expectations from it but it oxidises and causes loss of viscosity of polymers (I tried it with Aristoflex AVC, Sepinov EMT10 and Pemulen EZ 4U). The product changes color to yellowish in just a month.. I would appreciate if you can share your experience (maybe there is any specific formulation approach). I added BHT, tried tocopherol too. Nothing seems to work..
here is an example of how I use it:
Phase INCI % A Aqua 59.50% A Niacinamide 2.00% A Ceramides Evonik 5.00% A Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10% A Glycerine 3.00% A betaine 3.00% A Siligel 0.30% A Propanediol 2.00% B Coco-caprylate 1.00% B Octyldodecanol 2.00% B Ethylhexyl stearate 2.00% B Dimethicone fluid 2.50% B Cetyl Alcohol 3.00% B Cetearyl 1.00% B Mirystyl Mirystate 2.00% B Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50% B BHT 0.10% B Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate 4.50% C Bisabolol 0.50% C Tetrahexyldecyl
ascorbate5.00% C Germaben II 1.00% -
Polysorbate what? (20, 60, 80?). The reason it separates, is that you add too much of EO to the ready emulsion. Usually fragrance is added at 0.5% or even lower. Have you tried mixing fragrance in Polysorbate 20 or any other solubilizer before adding it to your cool down phase?
Also, you have quite a lot of oil and you made up your own emulsification system. It might not be as reliable as a commercial blend even if you calculated the HLB right.
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They all get rancid too quickly. Oleic slower than linoleic but if you want a stable product use synthetics and mineral oil. Butters are okeish because they are comprised of saturated fats mostly. I tried to find studies proving that veg oils have skin benefits but couldn’t find anything reasonable.
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Ok, the last one, carbomers (except for sodium carbomer) require neutralization to form gel network. Either TEA or NaOH. And make sure the final pH isn’t above 7
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Where’s your emulsifier? Water and oil don’t mix. I think you spend too much time on analyzing it. Go to the lab, touch materials. Rub emollients between your fingers to see how they feel. Run the formula, then go back to your laptop to analyze what went wrong and what can be done better. Formulating is 70% lab work.
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Comedogenic scale assumes ingredient is used in pure form and the tests were performed on rabbits’ ears which are quite different from human skin. Also 1 is low. I don’t think you can find a lot of materials with lower rating.
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Clay isn’t used for this purpose. Use silica microspheres.
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Can you please share the paper that states that dimethicone clogs pores?
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I usually see lakes and oxides as colorants. They are stable throughout life of the product.
yes, mix solubilizer with EO (2:1 should be ok) and add to cool down phase.
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It will be safer to mix EO it with solubilizer before adding but I don’t know a single naturally compliant solubilizer. Try to add as is. Experimenting can answer many questions. This is the only way to develop an intuition in formulating. Regarding q10, yes you can add it to cool down. But it’s quite orange. And it tends to get darker with time. Plus green spirulina.. It might not look good. Also lookup spirulina on this forum. I remember someone discussed using it in shampoo and it was changing color.
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And by the way there are no toxic cosmetic ingredients. They all are safe. Including parabens and petrolatum
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Looks like it’s emulsified with Sepigel 305 and Olivem 1000. If you can find Sepigel 305 you can try to make it.
Dimethicone/vinyl Dimenticone Crosspolymer can be found on lotioncrafter. -
There are some evidence that Niacinamide works. I need to lookup allantoin.
Can you share list of ingredients for the neutrogena product you are referring to?regarding carbomer, I personally like it much better than xanthan but it’s not natural. Regarding 2% it’s too high. Have a look which one you have. They all are different and require different amounts to achieve the same viscosity.