Forum Replies Created

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  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 3, 2019 at 8:32 am in reply to: HAIR OIL FORMULATION HELP

    @UsmanAli, there’s no enough proof. You can use it for claims, but don’t expect it to work. I know a ‘smart’ guy who just applied mustard (a sauce) on his head. All he got was a severe rash. And all his friends laughing every time they see mustard. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 2, 2019 at 9:51 am in reply to: email re “help me out” seeking donations

    Done. Good luck, Perry.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 2, 2019 at 5:54 am in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    If you absolutely need to have that Vitamin C serum, dissolve LAA in PG and don’t add anything else at all. Alternatively dissolve LAA in dimethicone and also don’t add anything else. It’s not going to be a pleasant product but at least relatively stable and safe. You won’t generally need a preservative if there’s absolutely no water. Check the link I posted above.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 2, 2019 at 5:50 am in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    @amitvedakar, don’t start with vitamin c serum. LAA is utterly unstable. You should understand how to make a simple and stable emulsion  first. Again if you want to create a product the first step is to analyze as many commercial products as possible and understand what they have in common. You are trying to mix water and oil without an emulsifier and add 20% of humectants. I don’t even see a preservative in your formula. Start from the beginning not from the middle. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 1, 2019 at 3:58 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    Glyceryl Oleate? Hm… I thought it’s low HLB W/O emulsifier and only acts as a stabiliser in O/W emulsions. You leave and learn!

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 1, 2019 at 3:49 pm in reply to: BASF and ULprospector registeration

    Hey @UsmanAli, you still can use Ulprospector’s search function. Search INCI and it will tell you the trade name.

    If you are looking for formulas of datasheets, I am registered at Croda and Seppic. Ping me and I will download it.

    Regarding materials, you can find almost everything at the DIY market if you know where to look. You don’t need to be registered at Ulprospector is you are resourceful enough.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 1, 2019 at 12:09 pm in reply to: Conditioning agents in shampoo

    I haven’t worked with esaflor ec4. I am not sure whether cationic guar is compatible with anionic surfactants. PQ10 will add some viscosity but it won’t be sufficient. You need to look up for options how to thicken it.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 1, 2019 at 12:02 pm in reply to: BASF and ULprospector registeration

    I need to add that even presence of a website and business email is not sufficient to get access to ULprospector. 

    You can however get access to most of the suppliers if you have business email.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 1, 2019 at 11:54 am in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    “but Oil returns.”- You are trying to mix water and oil without an emulsifier. It must separate.

    “Top vitamin c serum brands are made of Ascorbic acid..” - Such a vague statement… Doesn’t mean they are good.

    “Well  how to dissolve oil & what base should be?” - Add an emulsifier.

    Is PG 10% enough? ” - Enough for what? What is the function of PG in your formula? Is is a preservative? I am not sure I would rely on 10% of PG as a preservative.

    “Does Serum means Syrupy liquid?” - It’s a marketing term. It can mean whatever you want it to mean. There are silicone based serums, oil based serums, water based serums.

    Want a quick fix? Get inspiration here: https://store.deciem.com/crossbar/cookieconsent?ReturnUrl=https%3A%2F%2Ftheordinary.com%2Fproduct%2Frdn-ascorbic-acid-8pct-alpha-arbutin-2pct-30ml

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 31, 2019 at 8:31 pm in reply to: How to properly hydrate and dissolve Polyquaternium-10?

    This morning
    no bubbles and you can see it dissolved completely.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 31, 2019 at 2:03 pm in reply to: “Creamy Balms”

    Please post the formula, it’s impossible to tell anything without looking at your ingredients and %. Also, can elaborate the meaning of “creamy” look/texture. What is creamy for me might be stiff for you. It would be better if you can provide your benchmark.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 30, 2019 at 7:56 pm in reply to: How to properly hydrate and dissolve Polyquaternium-10?

    Hi @Gunther, I slurried 1.5% of PQ10 in 4% of glycerin and added to water (qs to 100). I didn’t even used an overhead stirrer, just mixed it with a spatula for a couple of minutes.
     There are some air bubbles obviously but no clumps at all. Please let me know whether  this process works for you.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 30, 2019 at 5:13 pm in reply to: How to properly hydrate and dissolve Polyquaternium-10?

    I just mix it and add right away. How much PQ10, glycerin and water did you use? I am quite surprised and want to run an experiment. I will post a picture.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 30, 2019 at 3:37 pm in reply to: Home Made Lipstick issue

    There are special flavors for lip products. Don’t use just any fragrance, it might be not intended for use on lips.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 30, 2019 at 3:33 pm in reply to: shampoo basic ingredients

    The idea is that you want 15% of active surfactant matter in a shampoo intended for everyday use. You can increase to 20% for a clarifying shampoo that is not used too often. You need to figure out active surfactant matter of your surfactants. SLES is usually either 27% or 70% , CAPB is somewhere around 35%. NaCl depends on the amount of CAPB because it has salts already, and if you add enough, you won’t need any NaCl at all. Google salt-curve to understand how to get it right.
    Your shampoo turns white, because you use an opacifier (glycol distearate). If you want it transparent, don’t use glycol distearate. If you want ” to have a pealizing effect and a little transparent” use a very small amount. I can’t advise how much because I use a blend. I know that 1% of the blend makes the product semi-opaque. Which probably means you need to try less than 0.5% of pure glycol distearate.
    You apply too much shear if you have bubbles. Just hand stir it slowly. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 30, 2019 at 3:21 pm in reply to: oil base Shampoo

    I agree, it’s clearly doesn’t foam well. Could it differ depending on oils I wonder..

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 30, 2019 at 3:15 pm in reply to: Water Separating from emulsion

    You have an answer inside your question, it is the time that causes it. Emulsions are not stable by nature. The question is not whether it separates or not it’s “when it separates?”. It’s however not good if it separated too quickly. If it’s not a general question, post your formula with % and maybe I will be able to tell why that particular emulsion separates too quickly.  

  • I’ve seen many things posted as fact by people who are not formally-trained that are just plain wrong.  Someone unskilled in the field would not be able to pick up on those distinctions”

    Impossible. When someone who is not formally-trained post something that is even slightly inaccurate those who are formally-trained shame that person to the point when they say “thank you for your help, I understand” and are afraid to post again. And then, they PM me and I help them to fix their formulas.

  • I will add more it is technically impossible to add details on certificates a person holds to the email signature in the firm where I work. You can be all happy and excited that you got qualified finally, but the only place you can post it is your personal linkedin. Well, maybe consulting firms don’t get it and we should place the name of the school and all certificate on our badges, so that everyone knew who is a respectable person and who is a yokel with a calculator :)

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 30, 2019 at 10:34 am in reply to: ghassoul, green, white clay mask formulating

    I am surprised there is no water. Is this LOI even correct? I highly doubt this clay is dispersed in glycerin and sorbitol only. Also, I see clay and “water” (glycerin is water soluble). I don’t think benzyl alcohol would be sufficient to preserve clay in water.

    @darferiha, if you are trying to make a clay mask something like L’oreal pure clay masks, you probably want about 10% of humectants, 0.5% of xanthan gum to thicken it, 0.5% of fragrance and solubiliser to incorporate it, a very strong preservative, such as phenonip because clay is very hard to preserve, water and clay amounts are subject to desired viscosity (add and see how much you like).

    Here is an example:

    https://incidecoder.com/products/loreal-paris-pure-clay-purity-mask-eucalyptus

  • I am neither discounting importance of scientific degrees nor saying that home crafters are better than cosmetics chemists with years of experience. I am also well aware what kind of nonsense products are sold Etsy. However this failed formula that is being discussed on this thread was put together but a chemist. Bug food preserved with sodium benzoate/potassium sorbate without chelators and even glycols. What could go wrong indeed? There is much more to formulating cosmetics than chemistry degree: knowledge of the market, awareness of existing products, experience of using these products, knowledge of materials and access to these materials, genuine interest and desire to explore, and hours spent in the lab. Putting labels on people is very tempting. Most of members of this forum have an idea who is professional cosmetic chemist, and who is a ‘toxic chemicals’ crowd without signatures. Let’s just all stay a bit more open minded.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 29, 2019 at 10:04 pm in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    Thank you @Pharma

  • I know a couple of huge consulting companies that intentionally got rid of positions in signatures. To eliminate bias. Some homecrafters know  more about formulating than chemists.  

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 29, 2019 at 9:55 am in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    Version with Dowsil 5225 Formulation Aid

    Aqua

    61.00%
    Betaine 3.00%
    Magnesium
    Sulfate
    1.00%
    Sodium lactate 2.00%
    Euxyl PE 9010 1.00%
    PG 3.00%
    Phenyl trimethicone 3.00%
    Caprylic/Capric triglycerides 1.00%
    Magnesium Stearate 0.50%
    Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
    PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (Dow)
    8.00%
    Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1
    Dimethicone (Abil EM 90)
    0.70%
    Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate 0.50%
    Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.30%
    Pigments blend 15.00%

    Very viscous easier applied with a sponge (not a brush). It is so thick that could work for cushion packaging with a net (such as https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/makeup/p/complexion/healthy-glow-makeup/les-beiges-healthy-glow-gel-touch-foundation-spf-25-pa-p184610.html#skuid-0184610)

    I understand it’s a bit early to talk about shelf stability, but the fact they both withstood 38C in London last week is very promising.

    The main difficulty of making a foundation is not making w/si emulsion. It takes some trial and error but doable. The main difficulty is to source good pigments. They must be coated and pre-disperced. Neither mineral makeup pigments, nor uncoated oxides, TiO2 pre-disperced in oil would work. Methicone coated TiO2 kinda works but still, when it’s not pre-disperced it makes a thin and poor quality foundation. I tried it all and I hope my experience is useful.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 29, 2019 at 9:40 am in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    Version with Cithrol DPHS:

    Aqua 47.80%
    Betaine 3.00%
    Magnesium
    Sulfate
    1.00%
    Sodium lactate 2.00%
    Euxyl PE 9010 1.00%
    PG 3.00%
    Dimethicone 5 10.00%
    Caprylic/Capric triglycerides 13.00%
    Magnesium Stearate 0.50%
    PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
    (Croda’s)
    2.00%
    Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1
    Dimethicone (Abil EM 90)
    0.70%
    Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate 0.50%
    Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.50%
    Pigments blend 15%

    Lighter feel. Spiky and bouncy emulsion that is melting and super spreadable on skin.

    The HCO above is not PEG-40 HCO it’s castor wax.

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