

ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 7, 2019 at 10:52 am in reply to: stearyl alcohol be a substitute for cetyl alcohol?It will work, but stearic acid, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (30:70) are rather draggy on hair. Cetyl would be a better option.
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 7, 2019 at 6:01 am in reply to: What is your favourite conventional emulsifier?@Sponge, yes, it’s very unpopular opinion nowadays:) if you haven’t tried Arlacel 165, I highly recommend it. It’s used in huge number of commercial products. It’s a great material.
I just would like to explore and not be one emulsifier formulator. -
ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 6, 2019 at 10:20 pm in reply to: What is your favourite conventional emulsifier?Thank you @Pharma. It’s quite interesting. I noticed that polymeric emulsifiers, that I always add for the texture, improve stability. I thought it has to do with viscosity. Now I understand why. They all are anionic.
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 6, 2019 at 8:27 pm in reply to: Which ingredient in this lotion causes tingling under eyes?I must admit, I use phenoxyethanol, particularly Euxyl PE 9010 a lot (this formula isn’t representative of that though). I prefer parabens and germall plus but for me those are expensive and not easily available (I have to order these from the US). I buy from repackers and they only hold popular materials. As you can guess parabens are not popular on that market especially in Europe.
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 6, 2019 at 8:18 pm in reply to: What is your favourite conventional emulsifier?Interesting approach. I can’t put my head around SLES (Coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, any other lathery surfactant) in leave in products. I know that all emulsifiers are surfactants, and I probably have no scientific point here.
I mixed tween 20 with sorbitan oleate. I looked like it performed in room temperature ok but I don’t have an incubator to run stability test. -
ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 6, 2019 at 8:09 pm in reply to: stearyl alcohol be a substitute for cetyl alcohol?Stearyl alcohol is much more draggy than cetyl alcohol. They have similar functions but product will be different upon application. Same is true about behenyl alcohol (more draggy and dryer than cetyl).
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 6, 2019 at 1:59 pm in reply to: Which ingredient in this lotion causes tingling under eyes?NaOH and Citric Acid are parts of my formula template. I don’t use any of them if the pH is within 6. But I totally agree that pH strips are not accurate. My observation, they actually work fine within neutral pHs but once it goes low (acids) they don’t detect that. pH meter was showing 3.4 while the strip was very very red (below 2). I guess all strips are different but all are not accurate.
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@EVchem, interesting! I used exactly the same combination in an oil cleanser as well! I actually found it a milder and better (rinse off) than PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate (Cithrol 10GTIS by Croda) that is intended for oil cleansers.
INCI % Mineral Oil 57.80% IPM 20.00% Polysorbate 80 14.00% Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate 8.00% EO 0.20% HLBs are close enough. I haven’t tried it as a bath oil (now I will) though but it works as a makeup remover.
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 6, 2019 at 8:37 am in reply to: Which ingredient in this lotion causes tingling under eyes?No, just a tiny amount of yellow oxide. I use so little that my scale (0.00) doesn’t even register it. I used that yellow oxide in a foundation before and it didn’t cause any issues.
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 5, 2019 at 9:25 pm in reply to: Which ingredient in this lotion causes tingling under eyes?I will run it without fragrance and post the result. I really hope it’s not aristoflex.
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If I may add, skin is not benefiting from those in general. Unless you eat a healthy diet full of fruits and vegetables.
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It is much easier to work with carbomer when you add it to the oil phase.
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 5, 2019 at 5:30 pm in reply to: Tocopherol acetate in skincare: useful or useless?Funny enough, for many products that include tocopheryl acetate, it isn’t even mentioned in the marketing story. It’s in so many products!
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If you are willing to use 1.5%!!! of TEA, then why wouldn’t you add it to the watephase instead of cool down and add 3% of stearic acid to your oil phase? I don’t like TEA-stearate personally but that would be a cheap additional emulsifier that will improve stability. The pH should still be high enough to neutralise carbomer. If you are using TEA for neutralising carbomer it’s too much.
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The questions you should ask yourself:
1) Is there a proof that the above-mentioned foods have any beneficial effect for human skin in undiluted form?
2) If so, what compounds are responsible for beneficial effect (proteins, amino acids, minerals present in that food)?
3) What does pH 14 do to those compounds?
4) Unnecessary, however, would those potential beneficial compounds have any effect in a rinse off product? -
ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 5, 2019 at 3:12 pm in reply to: Which ingredient in this lotion causes tingling under eyes?Silly question (I haven’t done it because instruction says to clean it with a special liquid and I am too scared to break this monster) but what if I just soak it in isopropyl alcohol? Will it die? :smiley:
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 5, 2019 at 3:09 pm in reply to: Tocopherol acetate in skincare: useful or useless?Oh how much money wasted…. It was one of those things I just kept buying because it’s included in all chanel/dior/la mer moisturisers and never questioned.
Thank you Doreen for raising this question.
Thank you, Mark for your input. -
ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 5, 2019 at 2:57 pm in reply to: Which ingredient in this lotion causes tingling under eyes?@Doreen thank you for the tip. I use this one https://www.hannainstruments.co.uk/hi-98100-ph-checker-plus.html
It’s ok, but must be calibrated after each use. It’s also not too easy to clean, as you can imagine, so I use it primarily when make acids peels (that I never give to anyone). -
ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 5, 2019 at 2:51 pm in reply to: Which ingredient in this lotion causes tingling under eyes?I am quite sure it’s not microbial contamination related, as I tested it right after it was made. Also, it is preserved with mix of parabens and phenoxyethanol (purchased recently), I used distilled sterile water (yes, I am overdoing it) and added a chelator. Equipment is sterilised with decent amounts of 75% of isopropyl alcohol, hands are sterilised + gloves (and everyone is kicked out from the formulation area).
The tingling is specifically under eyes. I know that feeling with the sunscreen, it’s not that one.
Regarding the pH, I do use strips (because calibrating that pH meter is a nightmare). I don’t see anything in this lotion to assume the pH is at a some extreme. It’s worth testing though, thank you for an idea.
Now, I really wonder if it’s the perfume… I actually thought 0.3% is on the low end. I will need to re-run it without the perfume and see what happens.
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It not about how many emulsifiers but more about which ones. You usually want different types of emulsifiers. Can you source Arlacel 165? It’s quite bulletproof. You can also mix Ceteareth-20 with Glyceryl Stearate SE.
There is also nothing wrong with adding carbomer as it improves stability.
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PEG-6 Caprylic/capric glycerides is a solubilizer that’s usually used for micellar waters and some oil cleansers in combination with other surfactants. It doesn’t have effect on viscosity as far as I am aware based on my experience with this material. I know it’s used in thickeners but I don’t think that it serves as the main thickening material. This is my understanding and I hope that professionals correct this statement if I missed anything.
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ngarayeva001
MemberAugust 3, 2019 at 1:33 pm in reply to: How to properly hydrate and dissolve Polyquaternium-10?By the way you don’t even need to wait for several minutes. Just slurry it and add. And then mix. There were no clumps after 5 minutes. I just posted a next day photo because there were air bubbles there on the first day.
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There’s Tego Pearl sold by a repacker in the UK.
https://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/tego-pearliser-770084I tried it and can confirm it’s quite easy to use. It’s based on glycol distearate. They have international shipping.
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Sorry but there are so many issues with this shampoo that I don’t know where to start. Your problem isn’t that it turns yellow, your problem is that this concoction does do the job. Less than 10% of active surfactants, just one surfactant and no co-surfactants. Plus you reduced its cleaning abilities but adding oil. As mentioned above, your decyl glucoside might not be enough for solubilising that much oil. It doesn’t clean. Among the reasons mentioned above, it probably turns yellow because you added 5% of ascorbic acid to a water based product. LAA is not stable. It oxidizes and turns yellow. Don’t try to save it, just reformulate it completely.