ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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I would say iselux and CAPB is sufficient. Try polyquat 10. It’s a game changer.
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I am making an assumption that hair is hair, and what works for regular shampoo must work for beard shampoo.
Glycerin and B5 (panthenol) don’t do anything so you can get rid of them.
Peg-7 - is it peg-7 glyceryl cocoate?
Cationic guar might cause problems in anionic shampoo (iselux is still anionic). Consider replacing.
The main advice, replace polyquat 7 to polyquat 10 . It’s much more conditioning and it adds viscosity, so you will kill two birds with one stone. If it’s still not enough, add amodimethicone as well. -
@Will, I prefer acids in the form of a toner (although I made a couple of emulsions).
This is my take on Lotion P50. I made it as AHA/BHA/PHA toner. Glycolic acid is a new ingredient for me. I started adding it recently. The formula was with 10% of 88% lactic acid before. PH is 3.2 (adjusted with NaOH which I forgot to include here). My skin is not sensitive so it’s good for me for everyday use.
INCI % Aqua 70.50% Betaine 3.00% Gluconolactone 3.00% Glycolic Acid 6.00% Lactic Acid 7.00% Salicylic Acid 1.00% PG 4.00% Sodium Lactate 4.00% Sodium
Benzoate/Potassum Sorbate1.50% If you formulate an emulsion with acid, you want to make sure that the pH is >
.5 because otherwise it might be a pain to thicken and it tends to separate.I think lactic acid is quite moisturising unlike glycolic.
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I am not suggesting that everyone should apply a thick layer of dimethicone 1000 all over their hair (although it works for some people). There are weightless phenyl trimethicone and dimethiconol and watersoluble versions of amodimethicone. Combined with volatile silicones they improve combing and make hair look very healthy. The keyword “look healthy”, because as Perry said, hair is as alive as a shoelace. “Healthy” hair is a matter of combination of mild shampoo (not necessarily sulfate-free) cationic polymers and silicones that are suitable for a particular hair type. There is a huge variety of silicones for a reason.
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Thank you @gmliii!
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Yes, I meant L-Ascorbic Acid. Lactic acid is my best friend and based on my anecdotal evidence it actually evens out skin tone. I also find freckles cute on others especially on very light skin people. I am closer to type III on Fitzpatrick scale and yet surprisingly prone to developing freckles which on me looks slightly out of place:) By the way @Will, age spots and freckles are both result of sun damage. The difference is the extent of the damage.
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I know hyaluronidase is used to fix result of not very tastefully injected lip/face fillers.
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My hair are chemically straightened many times, colored countless number of times, and treated with a straightener at the max temperature. And after all of it they look like in that silly pantene commercial from 90’s. The secret? Silicones. Just use enough silicones.
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Decyl Glucoside is anything but gentle and glucosides make terrible shampoo. There is no such thing as “clean” cosmetics. There is a weird “natural” movement on the internet nowadays that claims that some ingredients are better than others. This is nothing but fear-mongering. Silicones are hypoallergenic unlike vegetable and “natural” oils. Synthetic fragrances are less sensitising than essential oils. Mineral oil so much hated by this “natural” crowd is used as baby oil because it is gentle and hypoallergenic. And the less irritating preservatives are parabens.
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Oh wow! The prices dropped significantly. 1kg of HA on DIY (repackers) market is about $550 now, it was closer to $1000 two years ago.
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Vitamin e at such concentration will act as pro-oxidant.
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That’s a perfect comparison. People buy Mazeratti not because of it’s unique properties/speed/whatever but due to what I call competitive consumerism. “Look, I have money for an expensive toy! I am better than average Joe”. It’s a fancy moisturiser with hyaluronic acid, it’s fashionable, it’s expensive. It’s buying a dream, not the product.
I don’t say that glycerin is the way to go, but I think the point Perry is trying to make is that you can achieve the same result with cheaper materials. And I would actually say it’s not glycerin on its own but a mix of butylene glycol, sodium lactate, betaine and maybe a drop of glycerin too. Regarding TEWL reduction, I don’t think you should rely on HAs film-forming properties for this. There is good old petrolatum and dimethicone for that. -
I wonder what is the smallest MW? I searched again but can’t find anything smaller than 4,000.
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The prices of glycerin and HA are determined by the cost of manufacturing not marketing. Glycerin is made by the means of a rather simple chemical reaction. HA is made by the means of bacterial fermentation in most cases, which is obviously more expensive.
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Whooooa! That’s overkill! You don’t need alpha arbutin if hydroquinone is already there. Alpha arbutin is a weak derivative of hydroquinone and it has the same mechanism of blocking tyrosinase as HQ, so why do you need both? Vitamin e has nothing to do with skin lightening.
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I thought none of them penetrates the epidermis. The smallest HA molecule is around 5,000 Dalton, or I am missing something?
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Although it’s expensive to use it like that, high molecular weight HA is a great gel maker. It tolerates high amounts of electrolytes, broad pH range and ingredients that will destroy any acrylic acid based rheology modifier. It’s also much more elegant than, say, clear grades of xanthan. I use 0.5% oh high molecular weight HA in most of my serums. For emulsions, I don’t see a reason to use it. I am not very fond of glycerin due to its tackiness, but a blend of glycols will do the job for less.
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Up! I also want to know the answer.
@Gunther, I am using sodium metabisulfite for my hydroquinone cream. I wonder if it’s useful for other products since I have more than I need for that formula.
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I would say polyquats (especially polyquat 10 at a higher concentration) and amodimethicone for shampoos, silicones and cationic emulsifiers for rinse-off conditioners and silicones only for leave-in hair serums (dimethiconol in cyclopentasiloxane is great).
I didn’t notice any effect from panthenol. -
@Perry, I know about your signature, as you mentioned .44% in one of your podcasts, which I listen to every week
The beauty brains podcasts motivated me to start making my own skincare. Specifically the one on Vitamin C derivatives (an old one with Randy). I got disappointed on the Vitamin C since then (after trying everything from freshly made stored in fridge 20% LLA to 10% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) but I discovered many other amazing ingredients and stopped buying all personal care products except for toothpaste and deodorant (because I am just not interested in making them). Thank you for being a real influencer and a populariser of formulating. -
If you want to follow ECOCERT it’s your choice but EWG is pseudoscience. They spread harmful misinformation and confuse consumers.
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If you want to have two obvious phases, I would suggest polysorbate 80 with some type of hydrocarbon, say mineral oil. What you suggesting might end up being very cloudy plus partially separated. The layers won’t be obvious enough to make it a marketing thing.
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Thank you Perry
I feel less silly now. -
Yep, a guinea pig here who tried: low pH 20% LAA (freshly made stored in the fridge), 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, 5% MAP in combination with 2% Alpha Arbutin, no forms of vitamin C above do anything to reduce freckles even when applied religiously for more than 2 months. If it actually reduces pigmentation it’s not because of vitamin C.
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I try to be as scientific and skeptical as it is possible but I cannot help it when it comes to ceramides. It’s the only ingredient that I use based on the anecdotal evidence