ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Virus needs a living organism to multiply. Unless those are some sort of bacteriophage and your product is poorly preserved there’s no risk of having viruses in cosmetic product.
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Toners don’t do any of what you listed. Anti-aging is a serious claim and there are just handful of ingredients with anti-aging properties all of them being over the counter drug. Soothing.. I don’t even know if it’s properly defined. Overall those are pretty useless products but if you want one you need water, preservatives and a bunch of humectants of your choice. Everything else is unnecessary, including alcohol.
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What do you expect this toner to do?
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You don’t have enough waxes for stick product. You want to have 13-20% depending on the desired hardness.
What kind of silica is that? A gel-forming one? They are very different and all have the same INCI.
Also for a good concealer, you really need some sort of film former. -
It’s from another formulation group and I hope the author won’t mind me quoting this. He is a PhD and an author of Cosmetic Microbiology. Since I am absolutely not an expert in microbiology, I have to rely on what a professional says. Although there are bacteria that tolerate high temperatures and most spores obviously tolerate high temperatures, those are not typical in skincare.
I have an opinion on materials and which rheology modifier would work better with electrolytes, but with this, I am blind and don’t even have means of checking whether I am right until I grow colonies of mould. So I use distilled water, I boil it before formulating, I use both phenonip and germall powder at a max amount (and EDTA), I bath all my equipment in 80% ethanol, try to avoid bug food and hope for the best. -
Ok, since I have been struggling with it for years here is what I know:
When the system is somewhere around neutral introducing 1% of lactic acid and 3% of sodium lactate will bring the pH to 4. Tested it many times for different pHs with Hanna pocket pH meter that is accurate to 1 decimal point (sorry I somehow thought it was 2 but I checked and it’s 1).Here is what I don’t know: when you use, say, glycolic acid at 5% the pH goes below 2. I want to bring it to it’s pka value 3.8. I add all ingredients but lactic acid and sodium lactate, adjust the pH to 3.8, then calculate lactic acid buffer values for ph 3.8, which is equal to 2% of lactic acid and 3% of sodium lactate as per my calculator, and add those two. The pH doesn’t change. Checked it after a month, still the same. I am not sure if it’s the correct way to do it and would really appreciate if @Pharma can shed some light here. Maybe I just was lucky.
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By the way, PEG-150 Distearate is very hard to work with. Try to find crothix liquid if you want this type of thickener in general. But again, all of those thickeners are for sulfate-free hard to thicken preparations. Do the salt curve.
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The most important question is why do you need PEG-150 Disparate for SLES+CAPB? It would get thickened with plain table salt.
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Well most home crafters can’t send it to be tested for CFU. I read microbial plates sold by repackagers aren’t particularly accurate either. Is there any other option? I boil water but I just thought of it as a logical thing to do. I don’t know if it’s true and if someone can confirm this is a correct approach I would be grateful.
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Ok, but demineralized water isn’t sterile. And although I understand cosmetics isn’t required to be sterile DIY materials are compromised from day 1. Aristoflex AVC we can buy from lotioncrafter isn’t the same one Chanel uses. It was bought in a large drum and then opened and closed million times so that I can get my 50g which will last me a year. Bacteria in, dust in, random particles in. Even parabens might not be enough when all your materials are compromised and I think it must be taken into consideration. I buy distilled ultra pure with 0 ppm and I still boil right before I formulate. Once the bottle is open spores are in.
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Buffer predicts the pH. For example, 1% of 88% lactic acid + 3% of 60% sodium lactate should lock the pH at 4.076 (my pH meter has only 2 decimal points though). Other ingredients might shift the pH and I wouldn’t expect it to stay the same but at least in theory with a buffer that should shift less.
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@Melcas, be very careful with buying ingredients on Amazon. You can only do this if you know the supplier. I found that ingredient out of curiosity but I don’t even know what that is. Bisabolol is a constituent of chamomile essential oil but it’s not an essential oil on its own. You will get chamomile essential oil of a questionable quality if you are lucky. If you need bisabolol, buy it from lotioncrafter. I assume you are in the US.
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To add to the above, unfortunately, you can’t always be honest with consumers. They want a dream in a bottle not a list of functional ingredients. I don’t suggest making false claims. I have a friend to whom I said million times I don’t do “natural”, she told to another person that the hair oil I made for her is better than the ones on the market because it’s “homemade and natural”. I stepped in right away and clarified it wasn’t natural. The answer was “yeah but it’s homemade, so it’s better”. The “natural” homemade hair oil was made of dimethiconol dispersed in Cyclopentasiloxane with an artisanal pinch of phenyl trimethicone
Look what Lush do for example. They say “freshly made” and let people assume it’s natural. They use old fashioned formulation method as if they took them from Harry’s 8th edition issued in 2000. Not very natural, and they don’t say it. It’s “just freshly” made -
@helenhelen I wish you to create many cool formulas with it. If you haven’t made w/o before, now you don’t have reasons not to try
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@DLR94, that’s not a right conclusion. You just need to forget to about making a skincare brand that is more sustainable than what is currently on the market.
You still can create something good. Just don’t buy into toxic chemicals/nasty sulfates/suffocating silicones agenda. Also, it’s a fantastic hobby. Just imagine a feeling of being in Bloomingdales/Saks/John Lewis/Harrods/any other fancy shopping mall in the skincare department with all those outrageously overpriced jars and think “I can make it”. -
It’s impossible to read. Translate it into percentages and check the pH. There might be multiple reasons: not enough carbopol, the concentration of alcohol is higher than what carbopol can thicken, not enough TEA, so pH is still too low etc..
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First of all, sulfates are not used for this purpose anyway (at least I have never seen such a product). Fragrance-free is a good idea as many people are sensitive to fragrances.
But what makes you think that “natural” is good? You need to do more research on the “natural” concept. And when I say research I don’t mean reading EWG, but at least type word “natural” in the search function of this forum and spend 1-2 hours reading what people with a tag “professional chemist” or “pharmacist” say about the concept of natural. Archive on this forum is a treasure and many don’t realise it. It’s free storage of knowledge and expertise.
Natural is not even a defined term. Even Ecocert certified ingredients are not natural. They don’t grow on trees. Synthetics are safer and perform better.
You don’t need to be a chemist to notice that oils do actually dissolve make-up better than surfactant based (read lathery and bubbly) cleansers. If you are interested in the reasons, when we say make-up we mostly mean foundation. I am generalising here but most foundations are made as w/o emulsions which are water-resistant. It’s much easier to break it with an oil cleanser. Like dissolves like. Similar is true about lipsticks that are mostly made of oils and waxes. It’s slightly more complex when it mascaras.
Anyway, the short answer to your question is Cithrol 10 GTIS by Croda which is sold here https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb/gc-glytris and they have international delivery.
There are other materials that would work (polysorbate 80 being one of them) but Cithrol 10 GTIS is the most bulletproof, others might perform better or worse depending on the type of oil.
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The Ordinary sell acid peels for less than $10 btw.
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Whoooa! That’s the worst idea ever to start formulating from acids. The cheapest pH meter stats at £60, and the professional ones are measured in hundreds and without it you will burn your skin. There’s a reason why you can’t find a ‘recipe’.
I confirm @alan123 ‘s message. It’s thousands of dollars and thousands of hours. It’s still worth it for me, not because it’s cheaper though.
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I understand it’s gross but this is to give an idea what kind of peeling one should expect after using 1% retinol o/w cream for 4 days. No other actives. Imagine what would happen if you add AHAs and BHAs to the equation? -
@Pharma, I didn’t notice much difference with propylene glycol either
the manufacturer’s materials promised it dissolves salicylic acid better than PG. Same thing but costs more.. I will obviously give it another go. -
@klangridge I try to be sceptical of the papers written by manufacturers. Let’s start from the fact that 5% of IPD and 5% Sorbitol make a rather sticky solution. Nevertheless, sometimes I fall for “shiny objects” such as this paper and give it a go (that’s why I know it’s sticky)
Your explanation about moisture in the hair makes a lot of sense and is very useful, thank you for it. -
@klangridge I read this white paper, which is most likely biased as it’s produced by a manufacturer https://www.kuraray.eu/fileadmin/product_ranges/isopentyldio/downloads/IPD_in_Hair_care_final_end.pdf
They had this catchy picture of hair soaked in 5% isopentyldiol and sorbitol
I wonder if it’s a temporary effect.. -
they perform differently at various humidities. I have no idea whether I consumer would notice a difference, but I can tell the difference between glycerin and sodium lactate in lotions.
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@Perry, re:why using several, in theory because of this:
