ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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@Chippy, archive of this forum is a treasure that isn’t used enough. Also trial and error, analyzing existing commercial products, cosmetic science books.
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In this case, cut shea butter to 15% max and add 5% of softisan. There’s no advised ratio but it might be a good starting point.
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Sodium Lactate. More hygroscopic than glycerin, probably the least sticky of all I tried. On the negative side, it’s a salt - can’t be used with polymeric thickeners based on acrylic acid (carbomers, aristoflex avc etc). Butylene Glycol for sensitive materials. Less sticky than glycerin, compatible with many ingredients, preservative booster (reduces water activity). What I couldn’t find my way around is isopentyldiol. Had huge expectations (it was told to dissolve SA better than propylene glycol) but it disappointed me. Exploring urea currently.
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In this case, it’s zinc oxide clustering, not even shea butter. What is the purpose of this product?
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Although softisan is a nice material it alone won’t stop a balm from getting grainy. It’s much more complex than adding just one ingredient. You probably have too much of shea butter. And it has nothing to do with summer.
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Also, many people can’t afford to go to a dermatologist for their hyperpigmentation. Buying cream is easier. This “cream” should be both effective and safe. When people would have let’s say 2% hydroquinone that is made by a trustworthy manufacturer they would opt for that. When the 2% hydroquinone isn’t available they would get whatever is there. It’s ok to want to have lighter or darker skin. It’s ok to want to be skinnier or younger. What is not ok is jumping from one extreme to another and I have a feeling that this is what is going on right now.
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We saw people here on this very forum asking how to formulate with mercury and formaldehyde. And although none of them got the answer those are the people who would fill the gap. So I hope large companies just rename their products from brightening to ‘tone refreshing’ or whatever term they come up with and keep their safe products on the market.
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@Belassi, my point is that if large multinational companies like Unilever remove skin lightening creams from those markets they would open pandora’s box, because with demand being still in place black market will pick up rather quickly. It’s much better to have shelves filled with products of a known brand who has reputation to lose. I would have more trust in a large multinational company when it comes to lightening products. It’s like banning alcohol, people would find a way and that way would be more dangerous. These products must be easily available, inexpensive and quality controlled.
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Products should be available for those who wish to use them. Everyone should have a right to make their skin lighter or darker depending on their preferences. The same way as everyone should have a right to get plastic surgery if they wish to get one. The human race has been attempting to modify their bodies one way or another for not hundreds but thousands of years. In early Tudor England only rich people had access to refined sugar and they had bad teeth, so guess what low-class people did? They blacken their teeth to look rich. There is no reason to fight with human nature. It is much more important to focus on safety and make sure that there is no market for skin bleaching products with 20% of hydroquinone or mercury or other nonsense. It is the same way important to inform people that excessive sun exposure is very dangerous. Businesses sell what customers want, not the other way around.
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@Belassi, commercial quantities or they would sell small amounts as well?
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You can buy from Amazon if you know the supplier. You also should be safe to buy BP/USP grade materials like glycerin.
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I wish they focused on more serious problems such as sun damage. People are the same everywhere: in some countries being white is a sign of belonging to upper class, in others being the same colour as grilled chicken in the middle of winter is a sign of belonging to upper class. The industry can remove the word but they cannot (and should not because it’s not a task of the business) remove the desire to change skin color one way or another.
Totally support the comments above. Hyperpigmentation is a big issue.
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Whatever it is, this formula isn’t good. Assuming it’s either a lip product or some kind of cream blush/cream eyeshadows: if it’s an emulsion it needs an emulsifier. With this much dimethicone it needs silicone emulsifier. This amount of clay it too high and very hard to preserve. There are much better materials to make formula matte. Too much of glycerin. There are no materials that help with dispersing pigments. Iron oxides don’t have good color pay-off in lipsticks. They are mostly used for foundations. Iron oxides must be coated.
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Well first of all what it it?
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@helenhelen, if your product doesn’t include any electrolyte sensitive ingredients such as carbomers, sodium lactate is the best. Not tacky at all and more hygroscopic than glycerin.
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Zinc oxide shifts ph up. Why do you need it at all?
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It’s not true at all. I live in Europe and there are products with parabens on shelves. A couple were banned (I hope more experienced members specify which ones) but you can easily buy products and ingredients with the most common parabens. I source my phenonip (Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben) from Italy. Also it’s a wrong perception that cosmetics is safer in EU. I would say FDA is much stricter in some areas.
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Can you source crothix? It solves problems with many of surfactants. PEG-150 distearate would be another option but it needs to be melted. Crothix is easier.
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I use it as a primary surfactant and saw it as a primary surfactant in some commercial products. It’s mild and foams well but hard to thicken.
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I also saw charts (HET-CAM) showing that olefin sulfonate is significantly milder that SLES. It’s used as a primary surf in OGX shampoos which are milder than many on the market. I understand however that it could be due to other ingredients. Surfactants get milder when combined.
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No
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That’s reverse engineering. It’s a paid job.
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It needs a lot of glycols and a surfactant to stop recrystalization. There are studies showing it’s still effective at pH 6. You will have better chance to stabilise it at 6. Or you would have to use unpleasant amount of propylene glycol.
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I tested cetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, behenyl alcohol and myristyl myristate each at 3% in the same base (10% almond oil 3% Arlacel 165, water qs). Actually I found that cetyl palmitate gives the most rich and occlusive feel. Then it’s MM, then cetyl alcohol and behenyl goes in the end (the most dry and powdery. And the viscosity goes in the opposite direction: cetyl palmitate is the less viscous. It’s a matter of personal preference and my friend from the industry pointed out that my scales have only two decimal points so my test is less scientific that I would want it to be (just a disclaimer in case you try to repeat my experiment). I concluded that I won’t use cetyl palmitate as a rheology modifier but to add richness (more occlusive feel) to the product. Probably something like 2-3% of cetyl alcohol + 1.5% of cetyl palmitate.