ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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If you need a surfactant that works with a variety of oils it’s Cithrol 10 GTIS by Croda. Works equally good with mineral oil and veg oils. Although I prefer alkyl benzoate + Polysorbate 80 combo, because the latter is more gentle on eyes.
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Vegetable oils are not polar enough to mix with Polysorbates. I run quite a number of experiments with different oils and Polysorbates. The thing that works for sure is Alkyl Benzoate and Polysorbate 80. I have disagree on 3%, it will leave greasy after feel. 10% is a bit more pleasant, although I use 15%.
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You can’t guess by the feel of it. There are w/o moisturizers that are gel like and have exceptionally light feel. Sisley Black Rose moisturiser or La Mer eye concentrate would be good examples. W/Os generally repel water although it’s hard to establish type of emulsion this way.
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Just a blend of oils and a surfactant. It will stay transparent, sprayable (but you would need to consider viscosity of those oils), and emollient enough which is important for such a product. Get Cithrol 10 GTIS by Croda because although you can even make something like polysorbate 80 work, Cithrol is compatible with a wider range of oils. It will turn into emulsion upon contact with wet skin (something as simple as 90% of Isopropyl Myristate and 10% of Cithrol). But speaking of foot cream in general, I would say there is nothing better than a plain moisturiser with high enough concentration of urea (but it’s a pain to formulate)
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Skin is pretty good at not allowing various stuff to be absorbed. It’s called barrier function. All claims you mentioned above are marketing nonsense.
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I am still confused. Do you have a benchmark that is sold or it’s just a concept? What is it supposed to do? There are plenty of products in sprayable format, from oils that turn into emulsion on wet skin and low viscosity emulsions to mists with humectants.
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Does it have to be transparent? What else is in the formula?
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Benefits provided by alpha arbutin aren’t very noticeable, so you won’t lose much by not using it.
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It’s not w/o. I can see surfactants and water phase stabilisers. There is no salt, and no oil phase stabilisers, which I would expect to see in w/o. My guess would be that it’s the surfactants that act like high HLB emulsifiers here.
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I have never seen a transparent product that’s called lotion. I guess most equate lotion with emulsion although it’s not a scientific term anyway
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Propanediol might be sufficient for that
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The last two points is a surprise for me. Taking this with a grain of salt.
Thank you very much @Perry. I might consider it for a couple of my products. -
10% lactic acid should lower the ph below 3. How are you measuring it? AHAs shouldn’t cause significant peeling and 10% lactic can be used as leave on, but nevertheless ph is crucial and damage can be made even with 10% concentration.
re TCA peels, these are more serious and in general should be applied by dermatologist. I saw it on Amazon but would not risk
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Are you trying to skin yourself alive? If that’s not your goal, neutralise that to ph 3 and don’t rub your skin that was just exposed to a chemical peel. Skin isn’t supposed to fall off in chunks, that’s not how acid peels work.
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Those are chemically different and there shouldn’t be stearic acid in cetearyl alcohol. Your supplier is probably confused. Cetearyl Alcohol is sold in many places. Where are you based?
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It’s very sad that there’s not enough good researches. I feel like finding an independent study that was properly conducted and peer reviewed is a huge luck. But then when you finally find it you realize that the researchers tested it on 12 subjects ????
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I agree there are too many unnecessary things there, but the 4% Niacinamide+2% NAG is somewhat substantiated
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17348991/I believe the party who conducted the research wasn’t independent, but at least it’s double-blinded and placebo-controlled. Although I must say I noticed no effect after several months of use.
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Another decent option is germall plus. No parabens
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Check the refractive index of esters and select the highest one.
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Thank you very much @Perry. This is very useful.
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Which is an emulsion so, in theory, if you find a proper emulsifier you can add a little bit. Depends on the formula.
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@ggpetrov, it’s not fake, I ordered from them before but they don’t provide any customer support and refuse to share manufacturing dates. They have three interesting ingredients in my opinion, betaine, Cithrol 10GTIS (croda’s) and Propanediol ester. Since I found the first two from much more reliable supplier (glamourcosmetics) I don’t bother with formulary. Italian suppliers are amazing. They are not obsessed with being ‘natural’ and have ingredients that aren’t sold by DIY suppliers elsewhere: BHA, anti dandruff actives, aluminum chlorohydrate, water in silicone emulsifiyers, and many other cool things. Also they were delivering to London within a week in the middle of the lockdown. I recently discovered another one in Italy: http://www.farmaciavernile.it/index.php? page=shop.browse&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54&vmcchk=1&Itemid=65
the search function is non existent but they have gems. I bought BHT, BHA, and Na2 EDTA from them last month.
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You might want to explore urea. It’s a great humectant but a pain to work with. It requires a ph buffer in o/w. It’s easier with w/o but making a stable w/o is a problem on its own. Another interesting thing about it is that it’s a humectant at lower % but has keratolytic properties above 10%
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Betaine is ‘aristoflex safe’. I never use it alone, usually mixing with other humectants. 1-2%
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I read that DMI works for oil rather than water soluble actives. I am sure someone mentioned it on chemistcorner too (run search function). On this other hand the Ordinary sticks it in every second formula most of which are aqueous serums. I don’t know if what they do can be considered best practice though. I think for a spray your best bet is propylene glycol. Keep in mind that you should be careful with penetration enhancers because our skin has a barrier function for a reason and by delivering active ingredient deeper to skin you step into drug territory. Only do it if you know exactly why you are doing it. Some actives must stay on the surface too.