ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Sepimax Zen can deal with 2% of sodium PCA. But I prefer not to add electrolytes when use polymeric emulsifiers/stabilisers at all.
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What’s in the formula?
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HA, pantenol, sorbitol, glycerin, betaine are out. You don’t need that many and pantenol is sticky. I don’t know if allantoin is any effective but you can keep it for claims. Definitely keep sodium lactate. Move urea to waterphase. Introduce lactic acid to buffer the ph (I think 6.2 is ideal for urea). Completely rethink your preservative system. Cut sunflower oil to 10-15%. You don’t need vitamin e, you already have BHT. Centella asiatica… it’s a fluff ingredient. Keep it if you want, but cut to an insignificant amount (less than 0.5%). You don’t really need alcohol there I would say.
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By the way, I tried to make Seppic’s gel trap with Sepinov and it had separated in a month, but the same formula with Simulgel EG looked unchanged for over a year (until I discarded it because I have too many samples). I tried to experiment with PEG-30 DPHS (my logic was it’s part of Easynov) but it didn’t work. Don’t get discouraged if it separates. W/Os are tricky.
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Yes, it could be buffered and neutralised to the point where AHA is not even active.
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Speaking of denatured alcohol, I recently found out there could be different materials under this INCI. Does anyone know which types are allowed in the US and EU?
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@LincsChemist, I think it’s an urban myth re: alcohol is drying. I was of that opinion when I was a consumer and was avoiding it religiously, but now I can’t find proof. I think it depends on the formula. Re; dry feeling esters, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is one of the greasiest ones. There are much dryer options like IPM or Isododecane (which is even volatile).
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Well if you are looking for a perfumer who will help you to develop your own fragrance and make sure it’s within regulatory limits for allergens etc be prepared to pay way above 5k per one formula (it’s actually 10K in the UK if you want to own the formula). “Mixing yourself” doesn’t work with perfumes. It takes years of studying and a very special talent.
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Hi @Perry, I might be wrong but it looks like Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is an exception. I saw it in products with anionic surfactants (a couple of examples below)
https://incidecoder.com/products/glenmark-bontress-hair-revitalising-shampoo
and some suppliers suggest it can be used in shampoos https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/product/i-evonik-tego-amid-s-18
Also, I am not sure if
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is the same thing but this is a formula from Harry’s 8th edition (p 629)
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I haven’t seen Sepinov EMT 10 in W/O products except for Seppic’s Gel Trap. Have you observed it for separation?
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There might be different products under this INCI. I tried Abil EM 90 by Evonik. It’s not an easy-going one and needs some practice. It doesn’t like high oil phase, in fact I only managed to get it working with 22% in the oil phase. You would also need to pair it with another w/o emulsifier.
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Germaben II is an option too, but it is misbehaving with some ingredients and gets cloudy. I know it does with some cationic material and electrolytes. What else is in the formula?
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Germall plus powder is your best bet.
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If you want a serum with niacinamide, just use 4-5% of niacinamide. I looked through several studies and haven’t noticed the use of more than 5%, although some brands use 10% it doesn’t seem to be justified. Water, niacinamide, glycerin, preservative and HMW hyaluronic acid as a gelling agent.
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I guess if that was so straightforward anyone could reverse-engineer any cosmetic formula by just reading LOI. It only comes with a lot of reading and experience. And wasting a lot of materials.
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EHG is used in 9010 at 10%. Higher price says nothing until you determine use rate.
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If you see products that are using one of them as the only preservative these are either not properly preserved or LOI isn’t correct. A preservative must cover from gram positive bacteria, gram negative bacteria, yeast and mold. There’s no single preservative that covers from all four. Phenoxyethanol is effective from gram positive and gram negative bacteria and has no coverage for yeast and mould. EHG has some coverage for yeast and mold but I would argue that not enough. Although PE9010 is considered broadspectrum on paper it isn’t the most reliable preservative.
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Glycerin is water soluble, if you add it to oils it will separate. And yes, don’t expect any effect.
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Germaben II. There are different components that start as PEG-120. Glutamate is very difficult to thicken but you can try crothix liquid. I can’t guarantee it would be very viscous.
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Haven’t you noticed that if a product includes them, there are both? Euxyl PE9010 by Schulke.
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This is an alternative to SCI. It’s very mild https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/3904/97777/Iselux
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There’s an easy answer. SCI isn’t supposed to be used at aqueous products at any significant percentage to make it primary surfactant. It will precepitate.
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It’s non-polar oils that improve stability of both w/o and o/w emulsions not the other way around. Hydrocarbons and silicones (although these aren’t technically oils) are non-polar, triglycerides are mostly polar.
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/chemistry/17390254.html -
Not a colour person either, just learning, but pretty sure that fumed silica although is worth adding won’t make the product matte. What is needed here is a specific film former. I tried this one and it’s very matte even when oils with high refractive index are used: https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/1664/223212/Novatext-MAT
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Methylparaben alone isn’t a broad spectrum preservative. Rethink your preservative system.