ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Well, L’Oreal says goji berry extract has amazing skin benefits and quote “proved effective in down-regulating tyrosinase activity and melanin content, which are responsible for skin coloration”. They give a reference to a research paper. The summary of the research paper says that it “may” have “protective skin properties”. The key word here is “may”. So, nothing is proven. You can’t rely on the article written by a company who is definitely biased.
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@Microformulation, I am very interested in this topic. I will really appreciate if you can direct me to researches (if any). I heard that world brightening is a marketing term for the western markets, because whitenning associates with scary pictures of people who overused hydroquinone. And, I will use a generalization here saying, that people in western countries prefer to be tanned, so word “brightening” just sounds better than “whitening”.
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@Perry, this is exactly what I am afraid of. Sorry to bother you with this, but does this product seem propery formulated to you in general? I thought I followed all rules but I am questioning everything now.
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@BCBull, I might consider it after I contempate this failure :smiley: but I will definitely exclude ubiquinone.
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@Majman it was discussed many times on this forum. L-Ascorbic Acid is very very very unstable. I will tell you more, I did several experiments myself. In a hot temperature (I am talking 30-35C) under direct light it oxydizes in less than 3 days! It stays relatively stable in a fridge for no more than 6-7 weeks (it is my experience and many professinals would critique me for this statement) Also, to be effective it should be formulated at a pH below 3.5 and the maximum absobtion happens at about 20%. Such a product is very irritating for many people. I do not recommend you working with L-Ascorbic acid, especially if you don’t have enough experience. And I can’t agree with Perry more on that extracts do not do anything.
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Thank you @BCBull. I will be asking everyone to do a patch test after this! I really hope it is one-off case. But since my sample size is only 7 people I can not be sure.
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@Microformulation, what I find very confusing about Fitzpatrick scale, is to find my type in it, because on one hand I have never had a sun burn in my life (I lived in Atlanta, GA and had a lot of sun exposure) and tan easily, so my skin fits into “never burns tans easily”, on the other hand I am not that dark (not even III). And alpha-arbutin works like a charm.
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@BCBull, I don’t think the preservative is an issue. I am making skincare for myself, family and friends. That particular batch was made one month before the person tried it and had a reaction. Also I have been using the same exact batch myself since then. The reaction happened after the moisturiser was applied at night. She felt a light burning but ignored it and fell asleep and woke up to severe rash everywhere she applied it. So, probably has nothing to do with the sun exposure. The reason I had licorice root, is pretty much the fact that I was copying an existing product (Chanel Sublimage) that has it. What I changed to their formula is replaced one of the oils to rosa canina, added bisabolol, resveratrol and ubiquinone. I don’t have any colorants and fragrances in it. The pH of the product is 6… She has just confirmed that she is using rosa canina oil from The Ordinary (pure oil) and has no reaction. So, probably ubiquinone or bisabolol…
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Thank you @Perry, I am suspecting either Ubiquinone or Rosa Canina Fruit oil… Five people including me have been using this moisturiser for a couple of months, and no adverse reaction at all.
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I will add from my experience that alpha arbutin works on darker shades of caucasian skin (what is called olive skin).
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See above: “Alpha-Arbutin works best in an Indian subcontinent and the Asian Pacific area”.
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I would say Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate blend at 4% (HLB is 11.5)
Add 3% of Cetearyl Alcohol and 4% of Cetyl Alcohol (thickeners, emollients). Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol and Mineral oil will be your oil phase with HLB of 11.7, so Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate should emulsify it. Please note the HLB is just a starting poing. It doesn’t mean that perfect HLB match ensures perfect emulsion, but the combination I mentions above usually works. -
Thickness depends on percentages. Nobody would be able to comment on this without %
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@rjd1234 Sorbitan Oleate, (which I think is the same as Sortbitan Monooleate) has HLB of 4.3. Mineral oil has HLB of 10.
4% of Sorbitan Oleate is not enough for that much of oil. Change an emulsifier. Are you willing to use PEGs? -
They put avocado in their products. A fruit not an extract. Is it even possible to preserve it effectively? https://youtu.be/BCoyvPp1IQ8
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There’s also an interesting product by makingcosmetics. Mix of silica and silicone polymer. Also used in color cosmetics. It’s called wrinkle blurr. Have a look, it might be even better.
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@Microformulation I started a thread about it, but there are no responses. I read that some ingredients that work for caucasian skin are not effective for ethnic skin and vice versa.
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I probably missed something about hashtags. @SJane, I am sure your product is an excellent product 🙂 You have a right to believe in it, and we have a right to stay sceptical. There is no legit study that proves that topical collagen does anything except for moisturising skin. If you can provide that study I, and I am sure everyone in this forum, will be happy to change our opinion. But going back to the claims, what is the size of your collagen in dalton?
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@Perry thank you very much for the full study! I agree the sample size is tiny.
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@Sibech, I agree with you but as you correctly pointed out, it is almost impossible to re-educate consumers. Most people don’t know that parabens are preservatives but they “know for sure” that it is bad. And it’s actually not surprising. Every time I google an ingredient the second or third link is “Why xx is bad for you” followed by a chemophobic article written by some dilettant.
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Nomenclature_of_Cosmetic_Ingredients
Ewax is a common name for an emulsification system. It usually consists of several emulsifiers. For example: emulsifying wax NF contains Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60. In this case Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60 are INCI. Bottom line all ewaxes are different. When you list ingredients, you should list INCI name, so that everyone understands what exactly you are using. In my formula above, I listed INCIs except for Paraben DU and T-resveratrol, but I specified a manufacturer.
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I analysed their ingredients and agree with @mikethair they are not so “natural”. They use parabens, SLES and PEGs. Their marketing claim is that their cosmetics is “Fresh and handmade”. My guess is that uneducated consumers think that “handmade” and “natural” (whatever it means) is the same. I actually think it’s a good trick.
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@Perry , I couldn’t get an access to the full article to understand their methods. Have you heard about this study?
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1046/j.1468-3083.2002.00527.x
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@Perry I totally agree that individual experience is not a proof (I admit that I am biased in this case). However, I think that sometimes it is worth trying. At least to know how to formulate with ceramides. Thank you very much for this paper and the knowledge that you share.
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There are hundreds of emulsifying waxes… What is INCI?