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Thanks for this info Perry!! I cant seem to find sorbitan oleate in our country so ill try to experiment with other emulsifiers. 🙂

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@Pharma sorry forgot to mention i adjust to ph 4.5 for conditioner

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helenhelen said:

Graillotion said:

I am more interested….to hear what you kept…and why. 

I didn’t keep much! I found all of these emulsifiers really easy to use and to get a good result but unfortunately my skin is sensitive to emulsifiers and fatty alcohols/acids, including when using commercial products. I’ve resorted to using separate water phases and oil phases (as serum and oil) on my body with no emulsifiers until I find an emulsifier my skin doesn’t mind  . I’m going to explore silicone-based W/O emulsifiers next. 

But if you are interested, I think the combination of:

Plurol Stearique MB + Montanov 202 + Behenyl Alcohol + Cutina PES + Sepinov EMT 10/Cosmedia SP (Sodium Polyacrylate)/Siligel would have made a really nice looking and feeling cream.

thanks for saying this @helenhelen. I started making things because of my issues with face moisturizers not working for me..i mean even the Clinique moisture surge (has AVC, c10-30, oleth 10) which i think has the lightest ingredients and oil free. At first, i thought it was fungal acne but when you mentioned this I realized its the same with me, separating serum and oil - i get no issues at all. Guess i just need to test each of my emulsifiers and thickeners see which is ok. 

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emma1985 said:

Anecdotally, no water based cleanser removes waterproof eye makeup and sunscreen like any oil based cleanser does.

There really is a big difference.

Thanks emma.  I also use oil cleanser for removing makeup but ive been reading a lot online on doing double cleanse even with no makeup day and night and how it helped with their skin condition (acne, blackhead, etc) so i just want to understand further. 

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Perry said:

Dirt on your skin is composed of oils.
Water by itself does not remove oils. 

Surfactants can surround oils, lift them off the surface where the oil can be rinsed away.

Now, not all surfactants can remove all oils. Some are better at it then others. So, it’s possible that even after using a cleanser on the skin there may be some oils left.  It’s like when you are painting and even after washing your hands some paint may remain.

So, if you put an oil on your skin this may be more compatible with the oil that was left behind. This can help lift the oil off your skin. You can’t rinse it away with water but you can either wipe it away or use a second step cleanser that can now remove the more easily removable oil blend.

Whether people need an oil cleanser or not is debatable but there is some sense in using them. 

Thank you so much Perry for the detailed answer. It was just confusing to me asi know water based use surfactants which can clean also the oil.  But yeah like the paint example you mentioned, oil is much better to use for double cleansing i guess coz it doesnt contain as much surfactants.  Appreciate it!