Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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@Pasko If I were looking at it as a learning exercise, this is not a bad Formula to start with. As I posted above it touches on several areas of education;
- The HLB System and how it is used to design emulsions with nonionic emulsifiers; https://caliscc.org/images/presentations/Mentor_2015_HLB.pdf
- Intelligently addressing market bias. This Formula uses parabens, Formaldehyde donors, silicones, propylene glycol, petrolatum and mineral oil. In the base market (mainstream Cosmetic markets and Pharmaceutical bases these products are generally more acceptable as the raw materials are less stringently critiqued form a “natural” marketing point of view. If you were making this product for a niche market where “natural” (not a real term) you would need to evaluate these issues closer.
- The role of Carbomers and other viscosity modifiers as “emulsion stabilizers” and how they are “neutralized” to gain their effects.
- What are the actives (such as Allantoin here) and what benefit they bring to the product?
Again, if you are looking at it as a learning experience, it is a good start. If you are looking for a product fast or in a “natural;” market, it isn’t your best option.
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You may want to look at the ProCutiGen Bond product from Active Concepts. It is also available for retialpurchase at Formulator Sample Shop. https://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/ProCutiGen-Bond-p/fss20829.htm
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It is a pretty simple product, much like every Pharmaceutical disappearing base I was making when I graduated in the late 80’s. However, as @Doreen81 properly points out, the Chemists in this forum pay their bills by “creating this Formula from a list of ingredients.” If you are set on doing it yourself, I would study the HLB system (that is how the emulsification system was designed), evaluate any marketing bias that you must deal with in the selection of raw materials (parabens, Formaldehyde donors, etc.), look at typical percentage levels and solubilities of common actives (such as Allantoin) and lastly look at how carbomer is used as an emulsion stabilizer and how to neutralize Carbomer. It is not the most daunting starting Formula, but to be successful there would be a learning curve.
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That is an extremely basic question for a Formulator.
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I would avoid the term “non-toxic” since you are using it incorrectly. Almost any substance is toxic at the correct dose. Toxicity is not a binary condition but rather directly dosage related. Also, from recent FTC statements, if you label your final retail product as “non-toxic”, someone could request actual testing results conducted specifically by you on the final retail product.
It is simply better to either refer to a third party Natural standard or to set a defined standard (XYZ Cosmetics avoids {insert the standard materials that we all get scaremongered against such as parabens, etc.) AND uses naturally occurring plant and mineral material minimally processed to create SAFE and effective products.
Likely if you are new to the Cosmetic Industry, you are not a Toxicologist as well.
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Google is a horrible source. What many people don’t understand is that google itself uses internal marketing algorithms. Go to a few “natual” beauty blogs and outlets and soon you will see that Google almost always directs you to EWG (a horrible source) as a first citation. Google Scholar is better but ultimately trade magazines and credible blogs are your best resources.
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Here was a Starting summary article to use as a jumping off point; https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/20766/ingredients-focus-cosmetic-waxes-and-butters
https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/20771/formulating-with-natural-waxes-and-butters
https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/13988/analysis-of-cosmetic-waxes-and-butters
As you can see I cite the same source over and over. There are also plenty of other references out there.
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Honestly, this is a huge topic and one which would quickly exceed the “band width” of a blog. There are numerous texts and credible resources from which to get “book knowledge” which you would follow-up with hands on experience. This question is analogous to “tell me about every possible condiment and flavoring used in cooking” in the following responses. Credible resources coupled with experience is the secret. There is no short cut.
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We specify that the client owns the final approved Formula and Process. Honestly, this is a topic that people put far too much thought into. If we are honest, in most of our cases there is no patentable material or process. We are all “digging through the same parts bin.” In the end, any Cosmetic Chemist can reproduce your product functionally with some time. However, it is the Sales/Marketing and Business Relationships a line fosters that can’t be stolen.
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I was aware of that. I suppose I assumed that he was speaking of percent solids in his initial post. Didn’t look atthefollow-ups as closely.
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Are the Okra Extracts purchased from a reputable supplier who provides specs? If not, it is essentially a non-starter.
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Do you have an issue with the quality of the Texapon N70? If you simply want to know the percent solids, you can refer to the Technical Bulletin which sets the allowable percentage at 68-72%. The tested percentage of solids specific to your sample would be on the COA.
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Susan Raffy of Raffy Cosmetics is in your area, She is great to work with, very knowledgeable and a frequent contributor to articles in Cosmetics and Toiletries.
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Be sure to do a great deal of Market research before getting too far. This is especially critical in the Vet market. For example, I have seen some “prestige” products for horses and dogs fail horribly. You need to realistically guage the demand for any high end products. Get actual numbers and don’t go with the emotional response that you have acquired being immersed in the market.
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If you check, L’Oreal has a patent on the product in acne as seen here. https://patents.google.com/patent/US20070025947A1/en?q=Capryloyl&q=Salicylic+Acid&oq=Capryloyl+Salicylic+Acid
I am unsure if the patent is still valid and I believe a patent attorney would be your best source. If you read the body of the patent, they go through the process of formulating with the product. However, if the patent is still valid you may have some obstacles to offering a product for sale.
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Why would you make your own Aloe Vera? If you are ever looking to sell at any of the more involved markets, having a home-crafted product without the proper documentation (SDS, TDS) will be a deal breaker. It is feasible at some smaller informal sales outlets, but eventually, you will have to confront the lack of proper documentation.
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@tanelise While I know that ultimately marketing will win out on these types of ingredients, I feel it is educational to know the real Chemistry behind them and to objectively see the actual issues. Also, I enjoy hearing some of the myths. “Can’t use Propylene glycol because it is in antifreeze.” “Silicones will suffocate your hair.” The science and the marketing is often far removed from each other.
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From BobxChemist’s link, down the page, they list the actual ingredient list versus their misleading “marketing” description. It makes a good bit more sense despite still being inaccurate regarding INCI names.
Ingredients: Geranium Blossoms Water, 100% Bio Olive Oil, Almond Oil, Pure Unrifined Beeswax, Vegetable Emulsifier Wax, Raw Honey, Bio Aloe Vera Gel, Grapefruit Essential Oil, Rosemary Essential Oil.
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Post the product. In many cases, the ingredient declaration could be incomplete or the emulsifier is in there, but it requires more experience with the raw materials to see it in the listing.
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Several years ago I reverse engineered a sunscreen for a client. The product used Dow Sunspheres (INCI: STYRENE/ACRYLATES COPOLYMER). It was an easy job and the product went straight to a Contract manufacturer. The Contract Manufacturer couldn’t get the Formulation correct. The client flew me to the plant and asked me to intervene and paid me for a full day. I walked into the lab and they had ordered a totally different DOW Product that had the same INCI but wasn’t an SPF booster. It was Accudyn Shine, an emulsion with the same INCI. I found the error within the first 5 minutes and spent the rest of the day networking and checking out their cGMP/SOP’s for the root client.
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Good luck with that. Some sectors of the Cosmetic Market can not easilly deliver these benefits.
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Under a comprehensive cGMP/SOP program, you would want to send them out. Firstly, it gives you third party validation. Secondly, unless you are a Microbiologist, the interpretation of these tests could be sub-par.
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Aquaguard NK12 INCI: Aqua, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate -
Grape Seed Extract is in many cases adulterated with Quats having a cationic charge. Xanthan gum is anionic.