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  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 13, 2018 at 3:09 pm in reply to: Alpha arbutin

    @Belassi I read the study, but my only issue is statistical. Ten subjects and no follow up studies for a commercial use. Try doing a statistical analysis on that study and see what the result is.

  • Too many generalizations. “Arginine improves almost everything” is broad and hard to digest.
    Arginine can be used as a neutralizer. In fact, Inolex uses it in some of their hair care line. It is fairly uncommon since I have never seen any huge advantage despite it “improving everything” and the cost is generally higher by a scale of 10 at least than other neutralizers.
  • Personal feelings have no place in Science.
    There is not a valid fear of TEA being contaminated if you use a reputable supplier. They will provide a TDS/SDS to disprove any concerns.
    This is a huge oversimplification. In general, you will select a neutralizing agent that is appropriate to the Formula. So, let me pose this rhetorical question if you are making a 70% SD40B gel for a hand sanitizer, would NaOH be the best neutralizing agent.
    Again, sorry, but as a Scientist, I chafe at “my personal feelings” promoted as a basis for a material selection. It is not so one-dimensional.
    Have a great day everyone.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 13, 2018 at 2:13 pm in reply to: vegan, 100% natural oil
    @savetheplanetearth I see a lot of anecdotal testimonials and product recommendations. This is more of a Formulating site.
    As @Perry properly pointed out, all matter contains chemicals. It is a huge fallacy to promote it otherwise. It is pure chemophobia.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 13, 2018 at 2:09 pm in reply to: MAKE SHAMPOO WITH BAR BLACK SOAP

    I have never been in a Cosmetic lab (and I have visited many) that utilized pH papers. They are NOT acceptable in Cosmetic manufacturing.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 5:28 pm in reply to: Cosmetic Product Labeling
    You can’t operate without registering. If you are already manufacturing, you are in violation.

    Cosmetic manufacturers are still required to get permits
    from the state in order to manufacture cosmetics.  That has not changed,
    nor have the requirements for getting said permits.

    General requirements for a permit are:

    • The permit may only be issued to a natural person (not a business entity) who is at least 18 years old.
    • An establishment that is a place of residence may not receive a
      permit and may not operate as a cosmetic manufacturer or repackager.
    • Good manufacturing practices must be sufficiently in place to ensure
      that the products produced are safe and are not (and won’t become)
      adulterated.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 3:15 pm in reply to: Alpha arbutin

    @ngarayeva001 “just sounds better” is silly, especially when purposefully separating and delineating the differences assists in the proper design of a targeted Formulation. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 2:05 pm in reply to: Alpha arbutin
    @ngarayeva001It is really a rough scale and honestly, best interpreted by a Dermatologist. What it really demonstrates best is that there is not one “perfect” skin whitening Formulation that will work for everyone.
    Years ago I did a line of Asian Pacific focused whiteners based on Arbutin. DSM had a great starting Formula.
    Lastly, in the way these products are promoted, there is a difference in a “Whitening Product” {meant to whiten a large area} and “Brightening” {usually less area involved, addressing age-related pigmentation changes). If you are really making a “Brightening” product, it is a very different approach.
    So, the first question is who is my demographic and what am I trying to accomplish? (Whitening versus brightening).
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 12:48 pm in reply to: Alpha arbutin

    @Majman I wouldn’t even recommend making this product without experience. At all. The products used can be irritating. Do some Professional reading first.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 12:34 pm in reply to: No Rinse Foam
    @Fekher There are numerous naturally derived betaines now, for example, Evonik’s “Betain P 50 C.” These products even have a COSMOS certification.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 12:26 pm in reply to: Alpha arbutin
    @ngarayeva001If you look at the scale, you are referring to a III/IV.
    @Majman Kojic acid dipalmitate is the most stable.  
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 3:09 am in reply to: How does Lush UK get away with it?
    @Sibech I think if you walked through that checklist in order at the facility, you would get the full picture. cGMP covers a lot of ground and a lot of proper documentation.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 5:48 pm in reply to: Alpha arbutin
    Real ROUGH guidance.
    Hydroquinone (avoided) and Kojic Dipalmiate (less effective) work best in Western African skin types, Irritation is an issue.
    Alpha-Arbutin works best in an Indian subcontinent and the Asian Pacific area.
    Do the botanical actives work? I am skeptical, but I include them for label copy primarily.
    Keep it simple. If you need starting formulations for either compound, there are numerous starting formulations from the distributors.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 4:58 pm in reply to: Nanotechnology in skincare?
    @SJane Believe me, the FDA monitors claims and will intervene. I would look at your claims before you get a warning letter.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 3:58 pm in reply to: How does Lush UK get away with it?
    @Sibech cGMP encompasses a great deal and while in many cases it is still unfortunately not mandatory, it is crucial. I saw numerous issues as well.
    For a quick overview of the FDA’s cGMP Checklist, which the WILL go through during a site inspection, here is a link.  https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/guidanceregulation/guidancedocuments/ucm2005190.htm

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 3:53 pm in reply to: Nanotechnology in skincare?
    @SJane I see lots of Marketing, no Science.
    I have never seen a prohibition on the use of hashtags. I have never seen the moderator delete a post for this reason. @Perry?
    Could you address;
    • The manufacturer is making really bold claims about using “nano-size collagen” that “penetrates” through stratum corneum and “rebuilds lost collagen”.
    • “Collagen Rx Plus uses Nano Technology to shrink the Collagen Molecule so it can easily be absorbed into the skin.”
    These are unauthorized drug claims.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 3:16 pm in reply to: Alpha arbutin

    Remember when selecting whitening actives, there is no one size fits all. You need to design each product by to the demographic and their Fitzpatrick scores.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 12:30 pm in reply to: Please help, water based hair clay/paste
    That question would require lab work on my part to really answer, but I really believe that all the previous posters have pinned it down. You are getting water to condense due to pouring temps and using tin packaging. This is maybe a point where you would consider calling in a trained Chemist as a Consultant.
    Here is what is really a bigger issue than the condensate and that is the relative simplicity and commonness of the Formula. I would wager I could pull down a similar product off one of many sites. So, as the consumer, why should I purchase this Formula? No offense, but several months ago I attended a presentation by a prominent Cosmetic Marketer. I am a Formulator, but it helps to get the opinion of an expert. She said (amongst many other things) that a product like this which is likely available at numerous Farmers Markets and Craft Shows, it would be difficult to differentiate yourself from the rest of the market.
    So, again, no offense, but let me pose a challenging question? Why would we buy this product? I submit that the Formula is pretty common and will fail if compared to the mainstream products. The fact that it is “natural” has a difficult time overcoming the compromise in performance. You need a good story and you also may want to explore finding ways to differentiate the product in the Marketplace.
    Again, no offense. I have done about 5 similar products that were marketed in the “natural” markets. The compromise in performance over an elegant product using synthetics is difficult to overcome. Remember, years ago we had products that were less effective and as Chemistry evolved, we replaced these less effective products with synthetic products and they became more popular. Reverting to “natural” essentially eliminates these advanced materials. Your Marketing will need to overcome this hurdle.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 12:12 pm in reply to: New Preservative
    Let’s not let marketers and other bullshitters bastardize the word “chemical.”  Chemical should never be used when you mean synthetic.

    @Perry I could not have said it better!
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 12:53 am in reply to: Cosmetic Product Labeling

    Have you registered as a Cosmetic Manufacturer with the State of Florida?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 10, 2018 at 10:30 pm in reply to: Need help with personal lubricant formula! 🙂
    Keep in mind, that if you sell these products in the US (Personal Lubricants), according to FDA regulations, personal lubricants are classified as medical devices and require agency approval before going on the market.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 10, 2018 at 11:04 am in reply to: How do I make a replica of this?

    I think that is nowhere near the standard. Also, with what you are using you have no SPF protection. Honestly, sunscreens are advanced Formulations. With the limitations in materials as well as the Technical gap, you would be best not to do a sunscreen. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 9, 2018 at 10:28 pm in reply to: How do I make a replica of this?

    It is likely that the bulk of these ingredients are not available in that region. In that case, I would discard that standard and select a less complicated base.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 9, 2018 at 10:24 pm in reply to: Please help, water based hair clay/paste

    At a certain point, you may need a Chemist. “Can advise an alternative formula of paste and clay, and describe the production process” is a bit much as that is what many of us do for a living. You will get some advice, but it is doubtful you will get a formula and manufacturing instructions. Teach a man to fish and all that…

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 9, 2018 at 3:39 am in reply to: Please help, water based hair clay/paste
    @Belassi Thank you!!!! I do recall this being an issue in a particular job. We fixed it by monitoring and reducing the RH as well as pouring at a proper temperature.
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