Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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Snail Slime.
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As @Chemist77 points out, these prices are only available online for retail sources. If you need wholesale pricing, you need to call the supplier and get the pricing. There are many factors that affect pricing and they will not post this online for confidentiality.
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The claims (as touted) are bull as pointed out. I hold out hope that once adequately investigated it will have some legitimate uses, likely based upon ingested CBD not topical.As far as claiming a wide variance in the CBD products, that is for the most part in the past. The States where the cannabis based is legal the products are required to be tested, cGMP to be followed and for the final products to be consistent from batch to batch. To prove this assertion to yourself, read the 137-page Medical Regulations California issued December 2017. The Industry is generally moving to a more sophisticated standard.Many products I have consulted on were for edibles (easy to control actual dosage), and topical products. They general settle on a standard %wt/wt percentage (say 25mg/5 grams perhaps) and then generally recommend a “pea-sized” amount. Obviously, this is much cruder.
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Hemp-derived CBD oil is approved in all 50 States and has a low THC yield (less than 0.3% THC present.)Cannabis-derived CBD oil is available in US States with Medical and/or Recreational Hemp laws such as CA and CO. Many studies have shown that the cannabis-based CBD is superior due to the presence of the THC (20:1 CBD/THC or 10:1 CBD/THC). The Israeli studies and anecdotal evidence supports the need for the THC as part of the “entourage effect.”We pushed for 25-50mg per metered dose.The DEA doesn’t monitor CBD or THC in products but merely Interstate Transport across State lines. The FDA has ignored the issue essentially.Of note, in Canada where it is legal and treated as a Medicinal product, it is no longer allowed in Cosmetic products. There was a recent article pertaining to this issue in C&T recently.
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@Belassi I also found that it had some particular challenges in thickening.
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Yes, but the general wisdom in Marketing is that they assign the problems to sulfates to ALS/ALES/SLS/SLES. As someone who knows Chemistry, you can attest that you couldn’t avoid everything that is broadly called a “sulfate” based solely on the IUPAC designation. I would wager you could likely name 5 or so exceptions (especially on biological systems) that technically contain an anion with the empirical formula SO 2−.Let’s pump the brakes. I dread the day we ban raw materials just for the presence of the ‘sulf’ in the name.Sulfates occur widely in everyday life.
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@nicotiro Keep in mind that TEWL is only one aspect of moisturization. Also, these studies are done with higher percentages of oils than would be generally used outside of an anhydrous product. If I needed to deliver an “anti-inflamatory” aspect (an OTC drug function when parsed that way) I would use many actives before an oil.
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@DtdangI will give you some insight on how I approach the instinct for my clients to “stretch” their claims. It has worked great and I have several national accounts that prospered once they got on track.In the Product Development (a phase you should be doing regardless of where you are in the Market), define 3-5 COSMETIC Claims that you wish to deliver to your clients. Follow the guidelines from the FDA I posted above. There are plenty of good basic ones (moisturization, etc.) and even some “acceptable” marketing based claims (pollution protection comes to mind as it is trendy). Less than 3 (such as these high percentage L-AA Serums) will limit the success of your product and your marketing. More than 5 and you have a difficult time successfully focusing your marketing. Plus, if you are looking to create a line, would you concentrate all these functions into one product even if the Science allowed?Now, take the next step and select raw materials that can provide these benefits. Deliver these actives and materials EFFECTIVELY in a stable product with good sensorials. (This is your root goal in R&D).Your marketing is now easy. In a well-written marketing document, educate the client on the benefits delivered, touch briefly on the raw materials and make this the focus. Sell, sell, sell.The last point (sell, sell, sell) rests upon the point that honestly a Product succeeds based upon the Marketing. As a Formulator who has bumped heads in the past with Marketers I wish it weren’t so, but it is.If we were shoemakers, our shoes would be 10% leather and 90% polish.
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I would not encourage someone “extracting” their own fragrance. These products are available from multiple reputable suppliers who provide standardized and documented materials.
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Iselux is sulfate free. How do you support it being a sulfate?
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The ICI charts have been revised a bit by Croda. We no longer use an RHLB at least in my experience since 1984 when I learned this system in college. At least in the practical application of this system.Keep in mind that HLB is for nonionic emulsifiers and in my experience is of lesser value in the “natural” markets where ethoxylated compounds are avoided.
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We have used HET-CAM as our standard test for ocular/corneal irritation test. http://www.mbresearch.com/hetcam.htm
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@Fekher I submit that this may not be the best forum for you. This is at least the 4th time that I have seen you get into a spat with posters who have valid Scientific Positions. @Belassi is correct that there have been valid studies showing that Olive oil can encourage the growth of Malassezia species and in fact, if you ask microbiologists, Olive oil was in the past used as a food source in the culture of Malassezia.
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1. The FDA definition is for US products. The lawsuit is in India.2. As someone who has some Attorney friends, trust me, you can sue almost over anything. Doesn’t mean you will prevail.
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The following words that are used for cosmetics are violating the FDA rules:Natural skincare. This term will get you in trouble with the FTC (https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/press-releases/2016/04/four-companies-agree-stop-falsely-promoting-their-personal-care)
anti-aging. OK if you stick to this very closely.
anti- wrinkles “Decreases the appearance”
fading dark spots “Decrease the appearance”
anti-acne NO, NO, NO. This is an OTC claim and as such you must follow the OTC rules (monographs).even skin tones OKWhen in doubt refer to this statement from the FDA and be conservative;FDA defines a cosmetic as a product
(excluding pure soap) intended to be applied to the human body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the
appearance. -
Glyceryl Stearate is an emulsifier with an HLB of 3.8 in my experience. What source stated it had a require HLB?
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I was arguing that for growing market bias as well as the irritation potential, Decyl Glucoside would not be my choice at ALL, regardless of the other surfactants.
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To get a good answer, you will need to post the Formula with wt/wt percentages. Off-hand, I doubt the precipitate is an issue of the preservative but likely another aspect of the Formulation.
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Just this week I have heard this same claim from a line assigning “tear free” to pH incorrectly. Another favorite which you will see eventually is “they add novacaine to the shampoo.” It is so much simpler and elegant in the Chemistry and the surfactant classifications.
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ngarayeva001 said:No, pH isn’t the only factor you should use amphoteric surfactants to make product tear free. Obviously ingredients such as essential oils have to be either excluded at all or uses at a very low %Thank you. Amphoterics are the secret. There are numerous starting Formulas on Tear-Free Baby Shampoos, especially some ones from BASF.
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@Belassi Thank you! This is at best 60 minutes in the lab.
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If you want to learn more about Carbomers, look at the Lubrizol Articles. They have several regarding Carbomers and their uses. You can find them at the Lubrizol website. Carbapol’s (Lubrizol’s Carbomers) are the gold standard for many. There is a lot of guidance on the natural gums. Avoid the blogs and look at some of the information on the supplier sites. Vanzan-NF is a common Xanthan Gum and Vanderbilt (the distributor) also has guidance.Remember also my advice to know your market. Some heads might explode, but not every market sector demands “natural” and in my experience, some products are a flop when made with strict “natural” requirements. In my opinion, for example, a “natural” pomade will fall short of a product with synthetic materials.
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In my experience, you can good effect combining Xanthan Gum with other rheology agents/emulsion stabilizer with good effect. A great commercial example is Solagum AX (Acacia/Xanthan Gum). I have achieved the same effect with carbomers.However, usually with my clients, they either want to be “naturally compliant” or the OTC’s couldn’t care less. With the “naturally compliant” clients the carbomers would be an issue. If you don’t have these marketing constraints, there are synthetic thickeners I would use likely before I used a gum.Now, that is a textbook answer. Determine your market and use the best combination the limitations. Then experiment.