Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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Raffy Consulting, contact Susan Raffy.
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Wow, didn’t see that coming! I believe it means “manure” if I am correct.
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If you search the knowledge articles from Lubrizolm they have a full multi-page pdf on making hand sanitizers, the proper carbomer selection and nuutralization agent. https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1017234.pdf?bs=76&b=28581&st=1&sl=73357078&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbY2FyYm9wb2xd&k=carbopol&r=na&ind=personalcare
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EVchem said:It might work, I just feel I should point out in the US this is not a cosmetic, it’s a medical deviceAnd such needs to be registered as a Medical device and receive FDA 501(k) clearance. It can not be sold as a Cosmetic.
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The 10% AHA’s are not for “beginners” but rather the safety protocol’s addressed by the CIR. AHA Peels with higher levels are “Professional Products” Only.
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Why is the coconut oil so important? You could easily switch that out for something more suitable oil that doesn’t have the issue.
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Replace the oil. If you look at the grade of coconut you may see that it solidifies at Room Temperature. It isn’t really bringing anything to the table and is generally avoided in facial products.In is an error to retail a product like this and to have them run it under water especially since it is an easy solution.The lack of preservatives has no effect on the issues here.
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You may want to check out some retailers. I know that Formulator Sample Shop offers several silicone bases as well as some starting formulations.
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@Posmatrac10 No issue. At least you express a desire to learn and you know that you have things to learn. Had you professed to be an expert since you did tons of research on google, you would have a barrier there.Silicones are certainly advanced. I would suggest reading up on them as a targeted subject. Also, Shinetsu (a silicone distributor in the US) has some very similar starting formulas. That could help as well.Here is also a search result with some Silicone references from Tony O’Lenick, a very knowledgeable author; https://www.google.com/search?num=100&client=firefox-b-1&ei=g5o2XJS8Moq3gge5lK3oAQ&q=Tony+o%27lenick+silicones+and+their+uses&oq=Tony+o%27lenick+silicones+and+their+uses&gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i299l2.4902.18017..18250…3.0..0.262.1784.9j6j1……0….1..gws-wiz…….35i302i39j33i160.W2pT2ZtgzKgI would ask first, define the benefits that you believe that the silicones will bring to the table. (Not in here necessarily, but in your Product Development). Then, if you have difficulty obtaining any of the raw materials it is easy to suggest a functional substitute.
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In my experience, this change in an organoleptic benchmark (change in color) would be a presumed failure due to an OOS result.
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Sorry, it is my trigger word…
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Ok, then the INCI would be Dimethicone.
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Could you better define “silicone oil?”
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We could discuss that issues for hours. I would say that if you want a guide for the approved processing (plant-based materials minimally processed), you should read the COSMOS standard. They do a great job of explaining the allowable processes. Again, if we mumble “natural” and fell we have established a defined guideline, we are not furthering good Science.
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@MarkBroussard We will follow the raw material standards based upon the Third Party Standards as well. It does take educating the client and not using “natural” as a standard. Most clients are happy to define the term. I dislike the term “natural” as it is imprecise and a barrier to Product Development.
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Dr Catherine Pratt said:Yes and do think this will ever happen??Yes. In our first call with our clients, we address the term “natural” and we get the client to agree upon a rough, internally defined standard. It is not difficult and in fact, our successful lines (>1 million USD per annum) run with the new definition and will educate their clients in their marketing.This approach is allowing my clients to promote their lines credibly and successfully. They integrate it into their marketing. The LOHAS clients love a defined standard. They are killing it in the “naturally compliant” markets and in fact, they have a STRONG presence in Detox Market. I will simply say that the success of this approach is proven by the results.It is an absolute error to leave this undefined for both parties. For the Formulator, it will save you multiple calls from the client where you must walk them through the pedigree of each raw material as they will adjudicate the raw material selection based on an undefined standard that can change day-to-day. It wastes time, creates unnecessary revisions and is contrary to the goals of the Formulator. For the client, leaving it undefined is a mistake. Remember this one fact; these emerging clients are entering into markets where everybody is “natural.” It is not the golden bullet anymore that people think it is. The focus of their line should highlight the “WHY” behind their lines and products. Saying “You should buy my products because they are natural” does not tell me why I should buy them since everyone else is “natural” also. Again, you are creating barriers to success for both the Formulator and the client when you blithely use this term without recognizing it’s lack of any real definition. Lastly, do we want to be Marketers (natural is best) or Scientists? I want to practice Cosmetic SCIENCE.If I had anyone issue with the naturally compliant market (compliant to an internal standard or a third party certifier) it is that while they third party standards are well-defined, they are poorly promoted to the Cosmetic Markets themselves. For example, it is difficult to press a client into producing an NSF Certified products UNLESS the buyer requires it. Otherwise, NSF means very little to the average consumer.
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DavidW said:Agreed. I guess it’s because when I do need outside help I work with people I already have a relationship with and there is trust on both sides.I work with emerging lines and start-ups. The challenge here is in determining which lines are ready to go to manufacturing. Unfortunately, we do establish new clients and have to build those relationships. It comes down to comfort with risk. For the most part, I have had great luck. My only real issue was a line that paid 50% down, begged for the Formulas to “price them out” and never paid the remaining 50%. I see my formulations, without changes, on their website for sale.
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Dr Catherine Pratt said:@Microformulation so if its not scheduled then you can use it all you like. Who said you cannot use it?You can use it. I just think that “natural” is a horrible metric to go on. It has no definition. It allows anything to be fairly called “natural.” It is a term that MUST be refined to effectively engage in any real Cosmetic R&D in a naturally compliant market.
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@DavidW In a perfect World, this is the case. However, the resistance to transferring the IP comes from the Contract Manufacturers. They will either want to own the Formula or will make minor changes and declare that the new “IP” is their property.For Formulators, the contracts are more to define the scope of the work as well as to define payment terms. Without certain terms (such as defining that the “job” does not include unlimited emails) you also can keep from working off the contract. I have had clients who pay for a finite amount of time (say 3 hours perhaps) and then send me 28 emails (I answered as well as possible) as well as calling anytime an unlimited number of times (16 times in a 2 week period). In the end, I did over 4 hours of extra correspondence. Also, it helps to establish payment terms.I too have accounts I don’t need contracts with. However, working with emerging lines, you do need to be more formal.
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There are now plant derived versions of Pentylene Glycol from Minasolve.Nothing can be called “natural” since it isn’t a defined term.
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The transfer of IP is actually part of my base fee. It is stipulated as the ownership of the final approved Formula. I work with clients who need to own their Formulas.
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Not to ruin the joke, but Brillo is a steel wool scrubbing products which has cleansing agents as well. It is used to scrub pots and stubborn grease.
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Regardless of what you do, you should have sanitation policies, SOP’s and logs in place if you want to adhere to good practices. The basic philosophy parallels what Dr. Pratt said. Remove any adhered solids, cleanse with an approved detergent, rinse with copious amounts of water (in the lab I use DI since I have it) and then spray with alcohol. You should even consider defining how they are stored when not in use.If a product is meant to be disposable, it is a false savings to attempt to re-use it. I use enough disposable pipets to order every 6 months. I do however use them at a rate that I would have to stock so many pipets that sanitation would be a burden. Just buy the disposable pipets. If anyone needs a source, I can email them the link.
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Many times an oil is perceived to be dry due to spreadability. (Oils really aren’t “absorbing” into your skin to any significant extent). If you are looking at the esters and emollients, I believe that you can get more benefit by evaluating the oils based upon spreadability, much as BASF does.