MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Yes, the Euxyl PE9010 should work just fine. Try it with Gluconolacctone as a solo ingredient and see if that solves your problem. Yes, you can try Sodium Citrate … don’t know if that will work as a buffer, but certainly give it a try.
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The reaction you are experiencing is probably from the Sodium Benzoate + Low pH. Gluconolactone + Sodium Benzoate does tend to cause a pH shift. Your skin may now be sensitized to the Sodium Benzoate … it can cause a flushing reaction and it sounds like that is what is happening to you.
You can purchase Gluconolacctone separately and switch to a preservative that does not contain sodium benzoate. Try Benzyl Alcohol (0.8%) or Caprylyl Glycol (1%) + 1,3-Propanediol (3%) … that should do the trick
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If you have an LOI for the original product, then an experienced chemist can take a crack at reverse engineering it. You’ll probably get something that may be reasonably close, but without an original to directly benchmark against, you essentially would be creating a new product, but using the same ingredients as the original.
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You should not have a problem with either of those preservatives at 1%
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You have been provided a quite comprehensive list of all the programs in the US. If you simply e-mail each, you will receive the information you are looking for.
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Your best bet would be to include some sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate … both are available as powders.
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If you want a pearlized effect … add either Glycol Stearate or Glycol Distearate at approximately 3% … that will give you the pearlized effect.
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You can also add 1% Sodium Citrate and use Methyl Gluceth-20 Benzoate (Finsolv EMG-20) instead of Propylene Glycol
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Unless you intended this … Salicylic Acid at 1.5% puts you in the OTC drug category, so this would be classified as a drug as opposed to a cosmetic.
60% Ethanol and Menthol in a Toner?
Your best bet would be to go back to the drawing board and start by reviewing the LOI’s of some popular toners on the market and try to do a knock-off until you better understand what you are doing.
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The other advantage to getting a MS in Cosmetic Chemistry is that the companies in the industry recruit at these programs and the professors have industry contacts. Corporations will scout the talent here before looking elsewhere for entry level positions.
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I would suspect the pH of your bentonite gel and body wash formulation are each above 6.0? Perhaps a Phenoxyethanol/Caprylyl Glycol blend using 1,3-Propanediol as a booster would be more effective.
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EWG Verified is trying to charge a royalty of 1% of revenues on each product carrying their stamp … it is purely a money-making scam in my opinion as their Verified stamp provides nothing of real value. A client of mine looked into it and well … would you pay EWG 1% of your product’s revenues?
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INGREDIENTS:
Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Aloe Vera 100x, Carbomer, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Triethanolamine, DMDM Hydantoin, Fragrance, Tocopherol AcetateAs stated before … these are your 3 most likely culprits. I am assuming you are using Carbomer 940? You can switch to Carbopol 30 that gels at pH 4.0. That would probably help. But, yes, it is probably the fragrance … what are you using for fragrance?
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I recently received a sample from a supplier that was all of 10 grams. Just barely enough to make one prototype. Luckily, I was able to “recreate” the ingredient by just purchasing the components separately and creating my own “dupe” … saved my client a lot of money going that route, but it is a rare instance where you can do this.
I’ve even offered to purchase samples from a supplier who would not charge me for them even though they complained about the volume of samples I requested. Strange approach in my opinion, but sometimes smaller quantities are just not available for purchase. No problem … on to the next substitute ingredient.
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Agree completely with your approach. I probably spend more time researching and thinking through the formulation than I do actually making the first prototype. It’s not an issue of purchasing materials as much as it is a time management issue. When I get down to making that first prototype, I expect the first attempt to fail, particularly if I am using new ingredients. Then I spend some more time evaluating what may have caused the failure and make the necessary corrections. I find this to be a much more efficient, and productive approach than making batch after batch after batch.
On a similar note, I had lunch today with a supplier/distributor who was lamenting the large number of samples they process, free of charge. I mentioned to him that oftentimes, a large enough sample is not provided to complete the development work and that I was more than happy to pay for additional samples. Then I mentioned to him that they should make their “samples” available through re-packers such as ingredientstodiefor.com and that they could turn their sample department into a profit center or at least cover the cost of sending out samples. He nearly peed on himself thinking about it.
When it comes to very expensive ingredients, I usually make prototypes including everything but that expensive ingredient and when I am confident the base formulation works, then I start prototyping including the expensive ingredient.
Remember, although the ingredients may be “free”, your time is a more valuable asset than burning through a few hundred grams of ingredients.
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I come from the Venture Capital world … The first consideration is going to be your management team … If you don’t have a management team with deep industry experience AND a great product line with some sort of competitive advantage, you won’t get their attention.
If you do not have those two in place, you will not get that type of funding. But, you could pursue the family & friends route. If you don’t have access to capital from family & friends, you might try a kickstarter of something of that nature.
Your best bet would be to develop your line and start generating some sales proving that your products do indeed sell. If you’re just a pure startup with an idea and no products and no sales … it’s going to be a very difficult, long haul.
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Anything short of discarding the batch is taking a very high risk. What I would be really, really worried about is this … If this batch failed and I have some sort of systemic source of contamination, will this happen to subsequent batches of other products and I end up having to discard lots of batches.
I would expeditiously try to sort out if this is a preservative failure in one product or do I have a much bigger problem.
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You’re missing the point … The preservative failed. Without knowing if the manufacturer did a PCT on this formulation, you don’t know the cause of the failure. Perhaps the issue is adding more of the same preservative, perhaps the issue is that this particular preservative does not work in this formulation, perhaps the overall preservation strategy for this formulation is ineffective and needs to be thought through again.
There are various factors that need to be considered. The first approach would be to completely sterilize all equipment and run a batch of another formulation and see if it is a process source of contamination or if the contamination is specific to this particular formulation.
The batch failed the test. Tossing the batch is the only option.
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I think the thing that he should be concerned about in the first place is that his preservative did not resolve the issue on its own. Regardless of where in his process the contamination occurred, if he were using the proper preservative to begin with, batch would not have tested positive.
Interesting that dumping the batch is even a question.
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I think the carve-out here in the regulations is that if a product is sold to qualified professionals only, and not the general public, then the regulatory requirement does not apply provided the product is safe.
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You would not have an issue selling such a product here in the US “For Professional Use Only” … The total acid concentration is well below the maximum level that can be applied by estheticians (up to 40% acids).
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Thank you … Transgel 110 MOF is what I am looking for.
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You can always make you own blend: 6.0% 1,3-Propanediol + 0.5% Benzyl Alcohol + 0.5% Caprylyl Glycol (or Ethylhexylglycerin).
If you don’t like the scent of Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol is similar, but the scent is reduced considerably.
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Potassium Alum functions as a deodorant. I does not function as an antiperspirant as it does not block the sweat glands, but does kill bacteria.
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I just started using this from Lincoln Fine Ingredients:
Linatural Ultra 1: Propanediol (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Pentylene Glycol
All natural ingredients from renewable plant sources. No complaints.