MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Perhaps not everything you have read is correct or overly generalized. As johnb mentioned, simply contact a Xanthan Gum supplier like Cargill and inquire what grades of Xanthan they have that are compatible with cationic.
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I find that it always helps if you list your water-phase and your oil-phase ingredients separately grouped. Your formula has an emulsifier, but no oil … so what are you emulsifying? There are several issues with your formula. Here’s a simple conditioning cream formulation using your selected ingredients:
Phase A
Water 74.8%
Aloe Vera Gel 5%VegeMoist 1%
Citric Acid 0.2%Phase B
Baobab Oil (or Marula Oil or Argan Oil or combination of the two) 12%
Coconut Oil 2%
BTMS-50 5%Cetyl Alcohol 1%Heat Phase A to 70C. In a separate vessel Heat Phase B to 70C. Add Phase B to Phase A with homogenization.When Phase A/B cools to 45C, add Panthenol (1%) and Fragrance Oil (0.3%) with mixing to incorporate.
Check pH. If necessary, add additional Citric Acid to adjust pH to desired level.
If you are making this for your own personal use in small batches, you can add a preservative of your choice, (or not) particularly if you are bringing the pH down to 4.0. But, generally it is a good idea to get in the habit of using preservatives … Something simple like Sodium Benzoate/Potassium Sorbate would work fine for this type of product.
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@MsAntipodes:
You’ll get much better results making a stable Oil/Glycerin emulsion using either Sucragel or Sucrose Ester emulsifiers http://www.sisterna.com/personal-care/sucrose-esters
The problem with your approach is twofold: It is somewhat difficult to make stable Oil/Glycerin emulsions and they tend to be quite sticky because of the high percentage of Glycerin.
It is much easier to just use a preservative.
Also, 1% Lecithin … if you’re going to stick with Lecithin, best to use 4% to 6% and in combination with a sucrose ester. You’re never going to get an emulsion using just 1% Lecithin.
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I would recommend dropping your total oils/emollients (Cetyl Palmitate, Shea Butter & Sunflower Oil) to 15 or 16% … So, you might try dropping each of those proportionately to 4%, 3%, 8%.
Yes, 5% Acacia Gum doesn’t make much sense and is probably also part of your problem. You’ll only need 0.2% to 0.3% as an emulsion stabilizer.
Ditto on replacing the Stearic Acid with Cetyl Alcohol to thicken it up.
With that much Lactic Acid … I assume your pH is around 3.5 … you won’t need much, but as mentioned above, Salicylic Acid alone is not a broad spectrum preservative.
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I really get a kick out of their EWG seal program where you can have cosmetics EWG Certified, but they charge 1% of revenues on that product for the seal. Now that’s a money-making scheme if you’ve ever seen one … going from “Safety Advocacy” to trying to get an annuity off of each product certified.
Many consumers do pay attention to EWG and I have clients who use it to screen proposed ingredients. So, rightly or wrongly, it’s one of those marketing issues that you do need to pay attention to on occassion.
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Not really anything helpful or current that I am aware of. The results of that oft-cited study are useful if you’re a rabbit, but I don’t think they translate well to humans.
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@Kyandee:
Hyaluronic Acid Powder is not soluble in water per se … rather it needs time to hydrate, so there really isn’t anything you can do to increase the solubility.
Rather, what you will need to do is instruct your customers to mix the powder in water and let it sit in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before use.
SLMW Hyaluronic Acid powder will hydrate more quickly than a higher molecular weight HA and it does not gel. Plus, it penetrates the dermis, whereas higher mw HA will form a film layer.
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There is no such thing as a Cosmetic Active Ingredient from an FDA regulatory labeling perspective. If there is an Active Ingredient listed it must be one of the ingredients specified in the FDA Monographs for OTC drug products. So, the term is being co-opted by the cosmetics industry and it’s just marketing jargon. That’s not to imply that certain ingredients do not have a beneficial effect when used, but they cannot be labeled as “Active Ingredient”
Organic is a specified term and you must go through a certification process to use the term Organic with the USDA NOP seal or the NSF seal. There is an NSF category for labeling “Made With Organic Ingredients” at 70%+ certified organic ingredients. This is a well-established protocol.
Chemical-Free is just marketing jargon.
I would not worry about any of this too much unless there is outright deception … that’s what we have regulatory agencies for. Consumers can complain and if appropriate, the FDA or FTC can take appropriate action.
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You should check out some of the pre dispersions from AppleChem
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About 40% Ethoxydiglycol … most often it is combined with about 15% propylene or ethylene glycol to bring to total glycol % to 55% or so, with 45% of the solvent base being water.
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Yes, the Ethoxydiglycol reduces the water activity. This is a very common approach to stabilizing Ascorbic Acid serums.
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Have you tried an Ethoxydiglycol “blanket”?
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We used to purge the solvent (water) with Nitrogen gas in a vacuum chamber to drive off the dissolved oxygen. It’s a lot easier to use one of the more stable forms of Vitamin C such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
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Thank you all for your comments and recommendations. I will try a couple of the options mentioned above.
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@Bobzchemist
Lab scale … batches are about 3 Liters … no issue with beakers. The main issue is mixing for dispersion of Sclerotium Gum as a thickening agent to form a gel cleanser w/o trapping a significant number of bubbles in the gel. -
You might try Heptyl Glucoside … Sepiclear G7 from Seppic
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Another reason to ditch the Suttocide A, besides the color changes, is that it can be extremely irritating, especially to the eyes.
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If you’re looking for skin brightening properties, you would be better off using an oil-soluble Vitamin C
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@jjclii:
Olivem 1000 very readily soaps … Cetyl Alcohol at 1% helps, but does not prevent it entirely. What I have found helpful is to use a blend of Olivem 1000 with RitaMulse and add a plant-based silicone replacement such as Isoamyl Laurate … give a really nice, light cream/lotion.
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3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid from Sandream Impact
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^^^ That, and it looks like your ratio of Polysorbate to Fragrance is on the low end. I would boost that to a 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 ratio.
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In addition to Sclerotium Gum, you might also try Carrageenan.
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Sounds like this is going to be viewed as a pure start-up, so using a LUSH store as a model is not a bad idea. L’Occitane would be another good model.
Honestly, your best bet would be to open a store on your own, run it for a year to prove the model and then seek capital.
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Yes, the value of the company is based on a multiple of current earnings and future projected earnings/cash flow. All of those past activities are reflected in the current value, which is some multiple of current earnings and projected future earnings … that’s what investors are betting on and buying.
Be aware that PE investors are going to be looking for an exit strategy, so taking PE money also means that at some future point in time, they’re going to be looking to sell the company so they can cash out their equity position.
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@clairec ;;
Acne results from a genetic predisposition towards a hormonal imbalance and can be exacerbated by certain foods … It can also be reduced by eating certain other foods. It generally is prevalent throughout humanity. It has absolutely nothing to do with grooming habits unless one is using highly comedogenic substances that help block the hair follicles and you are genetically predisposed towards acne.
The two “non-industrialized communities” you are referring to have a low genetic predisposition to acne and their diet is high in “good foods” that help keep acne at bay. Further, studies confirmed that these communities do not eat a “Western” diet which also contributes to the low to non-existent occurrence in these societies.