MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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It actually appears that the correct answer is: It all depends on which grade of CCT you purchase and from which supplier.
While the INCI may be Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides across the board for all grades of CCT, they can all vary in the C8:C10 fatty acid composition. So, one grade of CCT from Supplier A may have a fatty acid composition such that the HLB is 11 while a different grade of CCT from Supplier B has fatty acid composition requiring an HLB of 5.
That’s why you see both numbers in reference materials. To be certain, unless it is specified on the product spec sheet, ask the supplier the HLB of the particular grade of CCT you are buying from them.
Virtually all grades of CCT contain 4 fatty acids, not just 2.
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That’s best covered in your development contract … a liability waiver and indemfication.
But, anyone can sue anybody for anything at any time regardless of your contract language. All they need is a lawyer and a claim.
I usually test all development prototypes on myself prior to sending samples to the client. And, I never, ever formulate a product or use ingredients/ingredient combinations that I think might have adverse effects.
This is handled during contract negotiations where I clearly specify what ingredients will be used in the formulation. If the client wants a formulation that has the potential for “harm” … PASS. Simply not worth it.
Your own good judgement is your best way to avoid any of these issues.
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Try http://www.ppibcorp.com … Professional Program Insurance Brokers. They specialize in the spa industry and related professions and offer product liability insurance on cosmetic topical products. Not sure if they cover OTC formulations, but it’s worth exploring.
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Sodium Lactate is a natural moisturizer, so not only does it raise the pH, you get the added benefit of increased moisturization. It’s going to be your most gentle, most natural option.
Ask you client which they prefer: NaOH, KOH or Sodium Lactate … they’re all going to work. Perhaps even add 1% Panthenol. Or, as also suggested Sodium Gluconate, AMTIcide, Panthenol and Sodium Lactate.
@Belassi: Lactic Acid is not going to help raise the pH, I don’t think.
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Sodium Lactate
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@ChicoB:
You’d best drop your Allantoin content to 1.0% to 0.5% and drop it in at 55C to 50C.
Two issues with your approach … Allantoin is not very soluble, so up to 1% and you’re generally good to go, but you need to add it in at 55C to get it to go into solution.
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That’s a matter to be addressed between the company and the USDA and FDA … consumers can always file complaints if they feel the product is mislabelled.
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The “Alkaline Water” is used to bring up the pH to saponify the Emulsifying Wax as it a “soaping” emulsifier … If this is an Organic Certified product, they’re probably (almost certainly) using an Organic Emulsifying Wax comprised of Beeswax, Lecithin & Carnauba Wax. It’s one of the only ways to make a cream that passes Organic Certification requirements. So, instead of listing Sodium Hydroxide on the LOI, they creatively called it “Alkaline Water”
You can’t have cationic conditioners in Organic Certified products. Same with the preservative, not really allowed in NOP Organic products.
Note: The NOP Organic rules are for food products … so they are severely lacking as guidelines for cosmetic products as the “allowed” list does not include any emulsifiers except the individual components of Organic Emulsifying Wax and the “prohibited” list includes most preservatives.
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@Perry:
LOL! … Get with the program man … in your reply you continuously used the term “Oil Phase” … it’s “Lipid Phase” … Now I’m off to make a batch of Lipid/Water emulsion using my standard 10% emulsifier to Lipid Phase ratio. Works like magic, every time!
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LOL! … if you had already calculated the HLB of your “Lipid” phase ( sorry, real “pros” call it Oil, not Lipid phase ) then you would know that the HLB calculation yields what ratio of each emulsifier to use and with the manufacturer use guidelines you would have a range of recommended use of each emulsifier.
So, if you know all of all that in advance, then you would know that your original question regarding a general rule for the percentage of emulsifier to use doesn’t have an answer.
Science is the process of experimentation … there’s a big difference between reading about it and doing it.
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One problem you would have with your proposed formula is that at 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate you are going to need such a large volume of solubilizer that it really would not be feasible. If you want to include that much Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate you’d have to make a cream. FYI: All of the studies I have seen by the manufacturer of THA have been at 3%. This is not like Ascorbic Acid where you get optimum results at 17%. More is not necessarily better.
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Try Sepiclear G-7 … Heptyl Glucoside from Seppic … no foaming as a solubilizer.
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There is no protocol as such matching the % emulsifier as a % of the oil phase.
Each manufacturer will have a recommended % of their particular emulsifier to use and stabilitzers/co-emulsifiers to get the best result.
For instance, if your oil phase is 17% and you’re using Olivem 1000 (HLB 9) you’ll want to use 6% to 8% Olivem, 0.2% Xanthan Gum and 1% to 2% Glyceryl Stearate. The co-emulsifier that you use will also be a function of the required HLB of your oil phase. But, using the same exact oil phase, if your using a different emulsification system, say Montanov 68 and Montanov 82, you might use 2% to 3% of each.
So, the question you are posing does not have an answer … it all depends on the HLB of the oil phase and the emulsifiers that you are using.
BTW: That manufacturer/laboratory that told you the 10% rule regarding emulsifiers/oil phase ratio … I’d think twice about the advice they are giving you.
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Or simply use something like RetiStar Stabilized Retinol from BASF in combination with Retinyl Palmitate
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Animal skin tends to have a higher native pH than humans and is thinner and more sensitive. For pets you should formulate at neutral to slightly basic pH.
Pet products are pretty much Shampoo, Conditioner, Detangler … as Johnb mentioned … cruise the isles of the pet store to get ideas.
Other that the pH, formulating for Pets is not much different than formulating for humans.
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You might consider using Lactic Acid (lowers pH and provides moisturization) combined with Gluconodeltalactone (and) Sodium Benzoate. It’s a nice combination that provides benefits beyond simple preservation and lowering of the pH.
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I think the confusion here is the source of the CBD oil. There are two types:
(1) CBD derived from Medical Marijuana which will contain THC
(2) CBD derived from commercial hemp which will not contain THC, can be used in cosmetics and is legal in all 50 states.
@Dcan … if you need a referral to a reputable supplier of industrial hemp-derived CDB, drop an e-mail to me.
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Glycolic Acid is an exfoliating acid. If you want to make a moisturizing AHA cream, you should be using Lactic Acid, not Glycolic Acid.
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The ingredient in Crisal Soap is Lactobacillus Ferment, not live bacteria … it is the components of the bacterial cell wall that have been sonicated to release the contents and then, most likely, any remaining solids are filtered off.
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It could well be that this is combination of extracts in Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Water/Glycein 50/50, Propylene Glycol … impossible to tell with an incomplete ingredients list.
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I’ll caution you that the only “safe” technique to incorporate bacteria into cosmetic products is to use lyophilized bacteria in an anhydrous matrix. Anything other than that and you’re courting trouble. There is no reason to take that risk.
To answer your question: Any bacteria, when lyophilized, will reconstitute when it is rehydrated with water.
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Here’s the INCI for their Serum:
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil*, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Isoamyl Laurate, Lactobacillus, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Vanillin, Gamma Decalactone
What they are doing is including lyophilized (free dried) Lactobacillus in an anhydrous base. Upon contact with the skin, the lyophilized Lactobacillus reconstitute.The “trick” in the marketing language is the statement about over 1 billion “live” bacteria … technically, that is correct as the Lactobacillus will reconstitute upon contact with water.
@Bill_Toge: Lyophilized cell culture are not dead … more like in suspended state … once they come in contact with water, the bacteria will repopulate.
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What is the name of the Brand that claims they are the only ones in the world to successfully incorporate live bacteria in a cosmetic product?
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Fact of Life: There’s idiots all over the face of this planet and any one of them can can post anything on the Internet at any time. And, you have no control over that … so forgettaboutit.
Your best bet to be successful is to pick a niche market with an easily, well-defined “problem” or “need” and develop the best product you can to address that need. You then need to craft a good story for your marketing line and promote your product to bloggers who run specialty blogs catering to people with that particular skin issue ( Yes, some of the same people you so very much disdain … they have followers (ie: potential customers).
Example: If you develop natural products for infant skin care … you have a clearly defined niche target audience & consumer base.
If you create yet another moisturizing lotion for the general population … good luck.
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@dariawes:
Why don’t you list your formula and then it will be much easier to give you advice to directly address your issue.