MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Actually, there are a number of ways to make the consistency of this concoction such that it can be packaged/dispensed in a tube.
Vary the proportions of the butters/oils, use liquid coconut oil instead of solid coconut oil, for instance Just last evening I made a 22% Zinc Oxide natural sunscreen that I could spray using oils and butters as a base. One only need experiment with proportions to get it right.
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There’s a company TBK Trading https://tkbtrading.com/ the sells makeup ingredients to the DIY market that has a client base that you are seeking to tap into. You might contact them to see if you could work out some sort of distribution deal with them for a makeup formula e-book. You might also see if there is some sort of national organization for professional makeup artists if that is your target market.
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5% Sunflower OIl is just fine … If you total up your oils your totaling around 11% which is just where you want to be. Are you using golden jojoba oil or decolorized jojoba oil? … that could account for some of the color differential.
You might want to hold off on adding your SAP to Phase A because it is heat sensitive and it is recommend to add it at 35C or below.
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Pardon the pun, but this formula is butt simple. Just combine the oils, butters, sterols and preservative. Heat to melt. Once melted, add the Zinc Oxide while stirring continuously @500RPM until the mixture starts to solidify. Pour into containers.
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There are several issues to working with Lecithin:
(1) It isn’ t a good emulsifier … yields highly unstable, heat-sensitive products
(2) It’s a mess to work with
(3) Lecithin-emulisified products are virtually impossible to preserve, particularly against mold
I cannot think of one benefit of using Lecithin in any formulation. Yes, I do have experience working with Lecithin and my advice would be for you to find something that actually works to your benefit if you are trying to develop a commercial product.
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The oils with the best balanced high lineolic/low oleic acid fatty acid profile are: Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Kalahari Melon Seed Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Rose Hip Oil
The oils that are highest in Lineolic are Sunflower Seed Oil, Safflower Oil.
I would recommend you use Sunflower Seed Oil as it is your least expensive option and accomplishes your objective.
I think you can substantially cut down on your Acai Sterols content (maybe 3% is fine) and you’ll have to play around with your Shea/Coconut/Carrier Oil ratios to get a product viscosity that works in a tube for packaging.
Yes, p-Anisic Acid could be a good preservative compliment.
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You can add 1% … should be fine. If you want to couple it with Naticide (Sinerga) for belt & suspenders, that’s another option.
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The blend is Glyceryl Caprylate (90%) (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate (10%) … since your formula is anhydrous, Glyceryl Caprylate alone would probably be sufficient.
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Try some of the European-based cosmetic ingredient re-packers.
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80g Shea butter (unrefined, raw, certified organic by the Soil Association)
45g Zinc oxide powder
20g Coconut oil (unrefined, certified organic by the Soil Association)
15g Bentonite clay
10ml Vitamin E oil (Natural, certified organic)
10ml Grapeseed oil (Certified organic)
Nothing wrong with your ingredients list here. You’re trying to make a diaper rash balm. As mentioned, the Bentonite Clay is not the greatest of ideas. A note … in cosmetics chemistry everything is on a weight/weight basis, so calculate your Vitamin E Oil and Grapeseed Oil in grams, not ml. And, your proportions should add up to 100% … it’s easiest if you calculate your ingredient percentages based on a 100 gram sample size.For Vitamin E Oil, 0.5% should be fine. To make this effective, you’re going to want to add an occlusive … if you want to stay all natural, use Acai Sterols as a direct replacement for the Bentonite Clay.
If you want to add a natural oil-soluble preservative glyceryl caprylate (and) glyceryl undecylenate at 0.6% would work just fine. Not absolutely necessary since your formula is anhydrous, but it’s an option if you want to add a preservative.
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You’ll want to properly hydrate the Guar under any circumstances. But, Yes, my suggestion was to use both Guar and Xanthan if it is not thick enough. Just make certain you are using a Guar that is compatible with Xanthan.
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If they are putting 20% Tetrahexadecyl Ascorbate on the label, then technically is should be 20% Tetrahexadecyl Ascorbate. The manufacturer’s studies are conducted at a 3% THD Ascorbate load. That’s a very expensive formula at 20% THD Ascorbate. Some of these companies are getting somewhat ridiculous on the elevated levels of Vitamin C they are adding into serums, just imho.
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The 15%+ is the most effective range for Ascorbic Acid … actually, it’s 17%.
What “oily derivatives” of Vitamin C are you finding loaded at a 15% level?
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You’ll never get 15% Ascorbyl Palmitate into a serum. As @doreen noted it has poor solubility in oil and at that you have to heat the oil phase to 115C to get even 0.3% in solution.
If you want an oil-based Vitamin C serum you should use tetrahexadecyl ascorbate. 3% should be fine … serums with 15% to 20% Vitamin C are generally when you use Ascorbic Acid as the Vitamin C ingredient.
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You’re going to have to use a base (20% NaOH solution) to increase the pH of the Glycolic Acid mixture to get the pH to the proper level. It’s a process … as I said before, it will take a couple of months of daily use to fade the spots.
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Once you disperse the Guar in water, you should take the pH down to the range 3.5 to 5.0 … let it hydrate for an hour or so. Then proceed. I suspect your Guar is not fully hydrating may be an issue.
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Certain Guars require incorporation in a specific pH range to properly activate, generally around pH 4.0. At what pH are you incorporating the Guar?
SCI at 14% should give you a pretty thick shampoo. You might try switching from CAPB to CocoBetaine to help with thickening.
Your easiest solution may be to just add 0.5% Xanthan Gum.
You can also switch from Glyceryl Stearate to Glycol Stearate or Glycol Distearate for opacity and pearlizing … usually adds some to viscosity.
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You can do it either way, but I would recommend that you best first add all water-soluble ingredients and add the thickener as the last step
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It is no different than working with Xanthan Gum … simply pre-wet it in Glycerin or Propanediol to form a slurry and drizzle the slurry to your water phase while stirring @500RPM or so.
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As Perry said, just make a batch large enough to fill all of the units and load your master batch with the equivalent of 250 mg CBD and mix it properly to get an even distribution of CBD throughout the entire batch.
You should have on the CofA for each lot of bulk CBD oil the exact mg CBD per gram of total oil. Most bulk CBD oils contain 60% to 70% CBD. But, each lot of CBD oil is going to vary in CBD content within a range, so you will have to adjust your formula for each lot of CBD that you use to ensure you are getting 250 mg CBD in all of your unit runs.
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Honestly, that does not even look like Tocopherol Acetate, which should be a translucent yellow color … this looks crystal clear.
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Not at all … it greatly accelerates cell turnover. Nothing “drying” about it as you are rapidly replacing new skin cells.
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You’re not going to see any noticeable results from using Alpha Arubtin within a 2 to 3 months, at best. So, any improvement you are seeing after only 4 days is an optical illusion … we all like to self-delude that our skin care products make more difference than they really do when we look in the mirror.
If you want something to work faster than that, I would recommend applying a Trichloroacetic Acid peel once weekly, combined with serum containing a cocktail of melanin inhibitors: Alpha Arbutin, Kojic Acid, Daisy Extract, Niacinamide, Bearberry Extract, Mulberry, Licorice Root + 8% Glycolic Acid
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@kat:
The most likely culprit is unsaponifiables in the Moringa Oil precipitating out. You might temporarily solve this by heating, but over time, they will probably again form a precipitate. Moringa is not a good oil for this type of product because of this.
Also, 12% Seabuckthorn Oil … it’s likely to stain clothing, if not leave an orange tint to the skin. You might consider dropping that down to 1% or less.
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There is no “correct” amount to use … I generally use Tocopherol and Tocotrienols at 0.5%.