Forum Replies Created

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  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 23, 2019 at 5:38 pm in reply to: BTMS50

    Technically, that may be true.  You oftentimes see re-packers rename the ingredient and slightly switch up the LOI … usually an indication that they do not have a formal distribution agreement with the manufacturer of the product.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 23, 2019 at 2:20 pm in reply to: Anywhere where I can buy some rice ferment filtrate (sake)?

    FormulatorSampleShop … seach for Sake

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 23, 2019 at 1:17 pm in reply to: Cosmetic ingredient labeling requirements???

    This is an issue that the FDA really should consider changing as the labeling requirements often create the need for additional packaging that would not be required otherwise. 

    This does not much more than generate unnecessary waste in the form of boxes, cards, etc. that are simply thrown away and drives up costs to produce them when consumers could simply look up the LOI on their phones.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 23, 2019 at 12:51 pm in reply to: BTMS50

    @Garifuna:

    Virtually all variants of BTMS are MS + Cetearyl Alcohol or MS + Cetyl Alcohol + Butylene Glycol.

    Perhaps someone has developed a versions comprised of MS + Cetyl Alcohol only.  Are you finding this on a re-packer website or on a manufacturer’s website?

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 23, 2019 at 12:37 pm in reply to: Tocopherol and Rosemary usage amounts? - Lip Balm

    you can add Tocopherol at 0.2% to 0.3% and Rosemary Oleoresin at 0.05% to 0.1% and you’ll be fine. 

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2019 at 9:33 pm in reply to: Magnesium/MSM Cream - Preservatives & pH?

    @Zaf:

    Here’s a formula that was used in this referenced pilot study:

    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5389641/

    Magnesium Cream:
    Lot # T10224:  Aqua, magnesium chloride (10%), cetearyl olivate, sorbitan
    olivate, isopropyl palmitate, emulsifying wax, glycerine, butyrospermum parkii
    (shea butter), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate,
    phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol

    You might want to start with a more simple formulation to begin and then add other ingredients from there.  I have developed MgCl cream formulas similar to the above.  As I stated earlier, this is a challenging product to make.  The alternative therapy market prefers the use of Zeichenstein salts as the source of MgCl.

    With dissociated Cl ions in solution, all you need is a proton donor and it’ll form HCl and the ZnO will react with the acid to decompose to Zinc Cloride.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2019 at 1:09 pm in reply to: “Creamy Balms”

    Since it’s primarily Shea Butter it’s going to melt in high heat.  I did ship some in July from Texas to California and it did not melt.  But, if you want it to hold the whipped texture, best to not ship this type of product during the summer months.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2019 at 2:34 pm in reply to: Citrus essential oils making anhydrous balm unstable

    This is a mechanical cooling issue, not necessarily an ingredient issue.  The top of the balm is in contact with the air, which I presume is conditioned, so it cools more rapidly than the interior forming the hard outer surface.

    One approach would be to put the filled containers on a chill table to expedite the cooling process.

    As for it melting then cooling during shipping … not much you can do about that … that is why lots of companies do not ship body butters and such products during the summer months.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2019 at 2:23 pm in reply to: Watery Cream

    Actually, it’s very simple to use … just mix Oil and Water Phases with an overhead mixer and you can make O/W emulsions with this as the primary emulsifer:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kgx16A-gPrg

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPmvUr257b4

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2019 at 1:03 pm in reply to: Watery Cream

    It’s simply yet another emulsifier, but of course, has its own unique properties.  Use it like any other emulsifier  … “water drop macro emulsion” is simply marketing gibberish.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2019 at 10:22 am in reply to: “Creamy Balms”

    @myraqureshi

    You’re referring to a whipped balm.  Heat your waxes, butters, oils to make a homogeneous liquid.  Add 3% Tapioca Starch while rapidly stirring the mixture to get an even distribution.  When the mixture cools down and begins to solidify, whip it with a whisk attachment at very high speed.  This will introduce air into the mix and the Tapioca Starch will hold the whipped texture.  Continue whipping until cooled to room temp.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2019 at 10:15 am in reply to: Magnesium/MSM Cream - Preservatives & pH?

    @Zaf:

    You have chosen perhaps one of the most difficult creams to make … not a good place to start for a beginner.

    I’ve developed a few MgCl creams and they are not easy formulas.  As regards pH … the pH of a 30% MgCl solution is 4.0.  You have a pH incompatability between the MgCl and ZnO which is most stable at a pH of 7.0.  So, you’d best ditch the ZnO.

    Your biggest problem is that you don’t have an emulsifier.  You’ll need to mix your waxes and oils together with an emulsifier(s) and a touch of water to form the cream.  You might try Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Oleate.  Once the cream is formed and completely cooled down to room temperature, slowly add the MgCl solution in small aliquots and mix in.  Then add a bit more and mix in.  Keep doing this until you have added all of the MgCl solution.

    MgCl readily breaks emulsions which is why you must add it to a cold cream and in small increments at a time.  The cooled cream will be crazy thick and even after you add the MgCl solution it’s going to be “lumpy” so you’ll want to process it further to create a “smooth” cream.

    Your next biggest problem is some confusion as to what is and what is not a proper preservative.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2019 at 9:53 am in reply to: CBD containing facial cleanser

    @NeilL

    You might consider a two-component system.  The cleanser without CBD and a small vial of CBD in a separate companion container. 

    The use instructions would be:  “Gently massage cleanser onto face.  Open container of CBD, pour down the drain.  Rinse face with water.

    Why don’t you try using a water-soluble CBD?  You won’t get a high load of CBD, but in a cleanser it’s not really going to matter, but it would make your formulation easier.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2019 at 12:30 am in reply to: Guar Gum (Cationic) with nonionic surfactants and anionic emulsifier

    @jjciii

    Try replacing the Decyl Glucoside with Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine or Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate.  The Glucosides are notoriously difficult to thicken.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 20, 2019 at 3:35 pm in reply to: CBD containing facial cleanser

    The real question is:  Why would you put a very expensive ingredient like CBD into a rinse-off product that will simply wash away all of the CBD before it can absorb into the dermis?

    Regarless, try PolySugaMulse D9 as your solublizer or combine it with the PEG-40HCO.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 18, 2019 at 12:30 pm in reply to: organic, vegan anionic surfactant

    @margi:

    You’re looking for a naturally-derived surfactant.  The only Organic Certified surfactant I have found is Sapindus mukorossi … the problem is that it is chocolate brown and a not-so-great foamer.

    Try Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate + Cocoamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine + Decyl Glucoside.

    BTW:  Vegan … most synthetic chemicals are vegan and that term is greatly abused.  I always laugh when I see adverts for “vegan” cosmetics that are chock full of synthetic chemicals.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 14, 2019 at 12:23 pm in reply to: Turmeric/Curcuminiod-related Topical Ingredients that DO NOT Promote Skin Whitening?

    If I read the published study correctly, I think you can conclude that Tumeric may make your skin lighter if you are a mushroom and it’s safe to use if you’re a mouse.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 12, 2019 at 8:29 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    @majman:

    Without having lists of ingredients from specific products, it is not really possible to know anything other than broad generalities.  If you post an LOI then we can have a discussion that is not just speculative and hypothetical.

    Brightening and Bleaching are two very different things … which of the two are you referring to?  Vitamin C will brighten skin, but it certainly will not bleach it.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 11, 2019 at 8:20 pm in reply to: Clay mask and shrinkage

    It sounds like compaction needs to be incorporated as part of your filling process, although that might be a bit too complicated.

    I am assuming the issue is that the client opens the container and thinks that it was short-filled … they paid for 8oz of product and only got 6oz from the looks of the product in the jar, so it’s more of a perception issue than it is a product performance issue.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 11, 2019 at 6:42 pm in reply to: Clay mask and shrinkage

    @zephyrsg:

    It sounds as though the product is simply packing down in the container during shipment/handling.  I am assuming you are using wide-mouth jars?

    Alternately, you may be getting some evaporation during storage/shipment and the issue could be the lid on the jar is not creating a tight-enough seal to prevent evaporation.

    Or, it could be both of the above.  Sounds like a packaging issue more than anything else.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 11, 2019 at 12:59 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    I Think
    any Skin lighting ingredient only work, if people have deficiency of that ingredient.
    Is that true?

    No, incorrect.  OTC cosmetic skin lightening/evening skin tone/reducing hyperpigmentation is all about using topicals to reduce melanin synthesis.  It has nothing to do with deficiencies.

    Skin bleaching is something completely different … @Majman … some of the techniques used include products containing mercury, high loads of hydroquinone, the IV drips and others that are just plain dangerous.  Most all of these products are banned in the US and Europe.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 11, 2019 at 12:13 am in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    @majman:

    The evidence is not definitively conclusive:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5808366/

    Yes, it appears to be safe to use in topicals and may have some effect.  There are a number of ingredients for evening skin tone that can be used in combination as they have different modes of action.  IMHO it’s kind of crazy to administer L-Glutathione IV drips to try to lighten skin tone … as though there is something wrong with the skin you’re born with.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 10, 2019 at 10:45 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    Exactly my point.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 10, 2019 at 1:27 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    Yes, L-glutathione is used as a lightening ingredient.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 10, 2019 at 12:32 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serum help

    Of course.  I just finished making a Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) powder formulation for a client that included L-Glutathione as an ingredient.

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