MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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@nick75
It all depends on the percentage of ZnO you’re trying to incorporate. If it’s on the order of 20% to 25% ZnO in an oil base, then a homogenizer will be your best option, although for this my recommendation would be an overhead stirrer.
If you are trying to create a ZnO pre-mix with 40% or more ZnO, then you’re going to need a 3 roll mill.
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1,2-Hexanediol & Caprylyl Glycol is Symdiol 68 from Symrise, but you could mix it yourself with the individual components … say 65%:35%
Sodium Levulinate (and) Sodium Anisate is Dermosoft 1388 ECO from Dr. Stratemans … it may have recently been renamed … Dr. Straetmans is now owned by Evonik.You could add 1% Symdiol 68 with 2% Dermosoft which is in a water/glycerin base. Alternately, you can buy the salts without the pre-mix and add each at 0.5%
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Are you based in Europe? The dyes that can be used in Europe are much more restricted than those that are allowed in the US.
I haven’t worked on one of these projects in a while, but you will get much better results using a Basic Dye … and, if I recall there aren’t many options for basic dyes that are allowed in the EU market.
The dyes allowed in the EU market perform poorly relative to the performance you get out of the semi-permanent dyes allowed in the US.
Check out Pylam Dyes … they have lines of both Basic and Acid dyes that are for semi-permanent applications. Stick with the Basic dyes.
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Contact Sytheon … they have lots of supporting information & studies for their Bakuchiol ingredient.
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What’s the point when there a other options to smoke that don’t include vaporizing solvents into your lungs?
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I don’t know … I worked on one vaping fluid project. I, for one, would never smoke anything in a Propylene Glycol base. They’re using CCT because it vaporizes at the proper temperature, although it is also common for the THC/Cannabidiol to be cut in CCT … it all depends on where you are getting your cannabis oils and whether it is cut in CCT or not.
Perhaps I am getting old, but what’s the problem with simply rolling a joint, smoking a pipe or mixing it in with some Shisha tobacco in a Hookah.
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@Perry:
They’re using Vitamin E Acetate as a thickener for the vaping fluid because it (Tocopherol Acetate) is very viscous.
In most vaping products, the THC/Cannabidiol Oil is diluted in either Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides or Propylene Glycol, but the fluid lacks sufficient viscosity to prevent it from leaking from the vape cartridge. So, to thicken it up to prevent leaking, some companies are using Vitamin E Acetate as the thickener.
A more sophisticated approach is to use Phytol (a terpene) as the thickener.
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@GordonE:
The most common vape juices are based on Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides and Terpenes … there would not seem to be any pressing need to include Tocopherol Acetate in the mix … Tocopherol Acetate wont’ do anything in the vape juice since it does not serve an an antioxidant to prevent oils from going rancid.
Perhaps people are including Tocopherol Acetate is based on a misconception … Terpenes are usually added as the flavor ingredients
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You could always try coupling 1,2-Hexanediol & Caprylyl Glycol with Sodium Levulinate (and) Sodium Anisate which are more gentle natural analogs to Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate. It all depends on the pH of your formulation.
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Yes, it is forming little pellets over time.
Appreciate your collective help. I’ll try incorporating some lecithin and incorporating the cocoa butter at cool down. Many thanks!
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HLB is useful to know, but it is not really going to do much in terms of making you a better formulator … over time, you will learn much from simply practicing in the lab using different oils and emulsifier(s).
HLB is much like the Comedogenicity ratings of oils. They are historical relics of ideas that are based on assumptions and observations that are theoretical, but not based on properties of the molecules that are measurable, so they are assigned relative values.
FWIW: I don’t often calculate HLB … but, it is useful for you to know the assigned HLB values of various emulsifiers.
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Why do you not just purchase it from a cosmetics ingredients supplier who will have screened the product to ensure it is cosmetic grade.
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This may work better:
Phase A
49.0% Water
2.00% Glycerin
3.43% Propylene GlycolPhase B
6.15% Beeswax
5.14% Cetearyl Alcohol
3.25% Ozokerite
3.00% Carnauba
3.00% CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
3.00% PEG-40 Castor oil
1.90% PEG-150 Distearate
1.20% Sorbitan Oleate
0.40% Oleth-10Form Emulsion … Then Add Phase C Ingredients one at a time mixing to incorporate
5.00% Lanolin Wax
4.00% Petrolatum
3.75% pvp/va
PVP -
No … Glycerin is not Water. They are two completely different molecules.
Looks like you are trying to make a glycerin emulsion. Firstly, to simplify things, why are you trying to avoid putting water in your formulation? It would be much, much simpler if you made a traditional BTMS cream. So, why don’t you start by giving your reason for not including water. You can substitute Glycerin for water in the emulsion and it will work, but Glycerin is very, very sticky.
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They may be using some form of pasteurization of the aqueous phases as part of the production process. That combined with NaCl may be sufficient to get the shelf life of their product as advertised.
Note that they aren’t claiming that their products are not irradiated ( I jest )!
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In the formulas you are looking at … are they adding a base such as NaOH to create Sodium Stearate as the co-emulsifier?
If not, then Stearic Acid is more likely just being used as a thickener. If a base is listed on the LOI, then it is being used as a co-emulsifier.
And, what is the HLB of the oils in the formula?
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Yes, but did you try it with the Ethylhexyl Stearate?
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@Jar:
Yes, with 2% Panthenol + Glycerin-based extracts, you’re going to have a stickly mess in a Toner
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You can thicken your Ethylhexyl Stearate mixture with Phytol.
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Hydroxystearic acid is primarily used as a structuring agent for oil/butter gels. It won’t do anything for facial pores or ages spots. But, it is freedom formulation!
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What you would have to do is melt the SCI in hot water and then mix the water in which the SCI is dissolved with the conditioner. That will probably reduce the viscosity considerably.
It would be much easier if you just added 10% of a liquid surfactant to the conditioner and mixed to make it homogeneous. SCI, because it is a solid that will only dissolve in hot water is not a good choice for this. You could add virtually any liquid surfactant that you wanted.
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LOL, Perry!
I guess that after 6 months, just call it Mother Dirty Shampoo?
It’s a risky strategy, perhaps the base Rose Flower Water is sufficiently preserved to make it last a while, so they don’t add additional preservatives. Or, it simply is not preserved at all.
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Zaf said:From what I can tell, nothing happened? I ended up with a slightly viscous white liquid. The zinc did suspend (stable) in the water, which is kinda unusualGotta be honest, was half expecting it to do something unusual, but it was completely uneventful. The solution also didn’t feel any different than I would expect from water+salt+zinc oxide. I am working with non-nano zinc if the particle size makes any difference.
It is typical when adding Zechstein salts to water at high concentration (30%+ MgCl) that the viscosity of the mixture increases and it has an oily feeling … that’s why it is generally referred to as Magnesium Oil. How much MgCl did you add to make your solution and how much ZnO?
You would not notice anything with the naked eye … the only way to tell what happened would be to do a chemical analysis, but that is just simply not worth the expense unless you really want to know.
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It looks like they are simply not preserving the product:
Aqua (water), Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate (plant-based cleanser), Lauramidopropyl Betaine (plant-based cleanser), Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Sodium Chloride, Squalane (olive oil-derived conditioner), Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Extract (softener).
This unpreserved product is best when used within 6 months after opening. Refrigeration not necessary
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What ingredients are in your Oil Phase?
What ingredients are in your Water Phase?
What ingredients are you adding at cool down after you form the emulsion?