MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Niacinamide PC (Personal Care grade) or USP are interchangeable. Use the one that is least expensive. As for pH, best at 4.5 - 5.0.
The interaction with Vitamin C … yeah, that really is a minor concern as you will not reach the required activation energy in a cosmetic product to trigger that reaction. You may get some minor conversion over time. But, for marketing purposes, just avoid combining the two in the same product.
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That is exactly what you don’t want. It is a Grapefruit Extract that they are marketing as a preservative, so most likely it may be spiked with parabens, for instance.
@Grallotion: You can get Grapefruit Extract from Green Line Botanicals, Carrubba or Bio-Botanica … all reputable suppliers who market it as a skin conditioning ingredient, not as a preservative.
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Your better approach is to use the term “Naturally-Derived” as opposed to “Natural” and also to avoid trying to calculate a % Natural composition. As was stated earllier, if you follow the guidelines of the NPA, for instance and the “No No” list from the target retailers that your client is interested in using as distribution channels, you will then have a defined list of ingredients that are acceptable to both. If an ingredient is in question, use the rule of thumb: Is it plant-derived, minimally processed, mineral-based, biotechnologically-manufactured … or, is it a naturally occurring molecule from a plant base and not derived from synthetic chemistry. Natural-identical compounds are generally acceptable although they may be manufactured chemically.
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Yes, you can purchase Grapefruit Seed Extract from Bio-Botanica, for instance. I don’t know if it is available from any repackers.
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Correct, a 1% SA serum with claims of exfoliation can be sold as a cosmetic product provided you make no mention of acne in your labelling, marketing & advertising.
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If you are making Acne claims, then the SA range for OTC Acne products is 0.5% to 2.0%. If you are not making Acne claims, then you can use SA in this range as a cosmetic product … describe it as an product for exfoliation.
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Your best approach is to formulate to a specific Natural Standard such as Natural Products Association, COSMOS, etc. There is significant overlap between the various standards as to what ingredients they classify as “natural”. The issue you may run into is retailers who have their own definition, but again, these are really quite uniform. For instance, if your client wants to formulate NPA compliant products and sell them through Credo and Whole Foods, then it narrows down significantly what ingredients are going to be acceptable to those retailers.
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You don’t need to make any conversions. As @Microformulation noted, simply make a batch of your product and measure the specific gravity. If you are trying to calculate what batch size in grams would be required to fill 100 - 15 ml tubes (or 1,500 mls) … then you can calculate the number of grams batch size you need. In my experience, most cosmetic products have a specific gravity not far off from 1.0
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Dermosoft 1388 is Glycerin, Water, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Levulinate and you generally use it at 3% or so. No solubility issues.
If you have access to Sodium Levulinate (and) Sodium Anisate powder blend, I would check on the compositional analysis of Dermosoft 1388 and use the same amount in a 50/50 blend of Glyerin and Water. You may need to use heat to get it into solution.
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If you are looking for a deodorizer … Zinc Peroxide is what you are best off using
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Yes, absolutely go for it if you think working as a Cosmetic Chemist will be a satisfying career for you. Age is somewhat irrelevant at only 33. If you were 50+ perhaps you might face a bit more diffculty finding a job. I know a contract manufacturer who is having a difficult time hiring qualified staff. If you can find a job with a contract manufacturer before going into the masters program, do it to help you get some hands on experience.
Yes, in the interim, taking on-line program classes in Cosmetic Science like Perry’s course or the IPCS or Formula Botanica would certainly help you get a better understand of the field of cosmetic chemistry. Also, set up a little lab at home so you can start making formulas.
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Ooops! … My comment did not post. To answer your question:
“So will there be any effect that zinc PCA or sodium PCA has?”
Let’s assume you mix 50/50 Zn Sulfate and Na PCA … Yes, but why not just use 1/2 the amount of ZnPCA and not have to combine two separate ingredients when you don’t get to list ZnPCA on your ingredient list? -
Abdullah said:MarkBroussard saidNo, you will have Zn, Na, Sulfate and PCA ions dissociated in the aqueous phase. They’re all water soluble so you just add to water and stir. On your label you will still need to list the ingredients as Sodium PCA and Zinc Sulfate … you could not claim ZnPCA as an ingredient
So will there be any effect that zinc PCA or sodium PCA has?
Yes, both Zn PCA and Na PCA are dissociated in solution. The approach described above gives you the same dissociated ions, but if it’s a 50/50 mixture of the two salts, you will have half as much PCA … so, why not just add half as much ZnPCA and you have one less ingredient to purchase.
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Abdullah said:Best alternative for zinc PCA?…. Assuming this is a cost issue? A genius once whispered to me that answer… blend zinc sulfate (super cheap) with sodium PCA….and what do you have?
Will you have zinc PCA and sodium sulfate?
Does it also need specific temperature, mixing speed other requirements or by just mixing them this reaction happens?
No, you will have Zn, Na, Sulfate and PCA ions dissociated in the aqueous phase. They’re all water soluble so you just add to water and stir. On your label you will still need to list the ingredients as Sodium PCA and Zinc Sulfate … you could not claim ZnPCA as an ingredient
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Hemp Seed Oil and Cannabidiol (CBD) are different ingredients, although CBD is extracted from commercial Hemp. This product has Hemp Seed Oil on its label, but not Cannabidiol (CBD). At a minimum, this product is not properly labelled and I suspect it does not contain any CBD at all, only Hemp Seed Oil
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Looks like a CBD scam
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This does directly address your specific question, but: Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate have the same, or very similar, mechanisms of action on the microbial cell wall. Potassium Sorbate often causes a flushing reaction in people, so Sodium Benzoate is your better option of the two. While they are often combined, the specific ratios have been developed by the manufacturers, but I am unaware of any published studies in that regard and perhaps this is company proprietary information.
But, in developing a preservation system, you’ll benefit more for using a mix of preservatives that have different mechanisms of action on the microbial cell.
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I can’t tell from the way you worded your description, but to clarify. You should be first dispersing your lamellar emulsifier in the water phase where it forms the structure and then adding your oil phase to the water phase that contains the lamellar emulsifier.
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Try water-soluble jojoba esters … 20KW from Floratech
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If you include 0.01% Niacinamide, you must list Niacinamide on your label, and you can even put it as the first ingredient at your 1% line to make it look like your product contains more Niacinamide than other ingredients, even if it is the ingredient included in the smallest amount. You could even call your product Niacinamide Soap. Personally, I think the 1% line rule is often abused in this manner.
Same for Aloe Vera. Put it one drop and nothing prevents you from calling it Aloe Vera Soap.
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It does not make much sense that a supplier would apply for an INCI, get it approved, and then use a different naming convention than that approved by INCI on their documentation.
If you have questions, check with INCI to verify the naming convention.
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Which surfactants specifically are you seeking to source and in what quantities? I have never seen APG’s available in powder format.
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Yes, the Levulinate and Anisate are natural products, not synthesized. I have used Dermosoft 1388 in multiple formulations as part of a hurdle technology preservation system with good results. The major drawback is the expense, high usage rate and shipping from Germany … all-in-all, not worth the cost imho.
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- Ingredient: INCI Name, Trade Name, Supplier
- Ingredient Percentages
- Manufacturing procedure
- Final Product Specs, Stability Test Results, PCT Test Results
- MSDS
@Stanley - the best approach is the use the INCI provided by the ingredient manufacturer. Often, preservatives in an ingredient are considered processing aids and you are not required to list them in you LOI. But, if they are in the INCI registered by the ingredient manufacturer, then best to list them.
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No, what I am saying is that Sodium Levulinate and Sodium Anisate are natural analogs to Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate (synthetic) in that they have similar chemical structures. However, most natural standards allow Benzoate and Sorbate as preservatives.
But, you have to use 3% Dermosoft to get similar effectiveness of 0.3% Sodium Benzoate + 0.15% Potassium Sorbate. That could be because the concentration of Levulinate and Anisate are low in Dermosoft or it could be because they are less effective (I don’t know the compositional analysis of Dermosoft 1388).
I don’t know that there is “simple” add-in for A. Brasiliensis. I always use a hurdle technology approach, so it would be more a matter of simple add-ins (multiple ingredients)