Forum Replies Created

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    December 19, 2022 at 8:54 am in reply to: “Clean” Preservatives

    Hey @Joy

    I understand what you mean I’m sorry if my english is very bad when is coming to explanation. 
    I’m sorry if I upset you, I was just trying to explain by giving examples.
    Anyhow, yes I agree some natural/organic permitted preservatives are just useless, difficult to work with and very short life. 
    As for “true clean”companies I believer that only when a body regulation will be created then we will all know and understand what the truth of that means. Until then is just a marketing propaganda. 

    Happy holidays!

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    December 19, 2022 at 8:42 am in reply to: Spirulina, pH, colour maintenance and more!

    Hey folks,

    Thank you so much for your reply’s, I actually beloved nobody will replay to my questions. 
    So to understand besides that  is difficult to keep the colour or the pH balance is just a ingredient that is extremely difficult to work with.
    So that means that a lot of skincare products that are formulated with siprulina they may add some extra colour inside there, so they can say that the spirulina is still active? and keep that nice blue or green colour?
    I still haven’t cracked on how to keep the spirulina for more then 1 month blue/green. 
    The pH, the temperature and the stability is still something that one day I will crack it, I will not give up ask is a very nice ingredient to use.

    Happy holiday folks and thank you again!
    Marina

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    December 16, 2022 at 9:03 am in reply to: “Clean” Preservatives

    Joy, 
    I’m wonder what’s your definition of “clean”?
    Because as long you have a product that contain water there must be a preservative.
    You say “true clean” - then just make oils mixture, butters, extracts by oil, extracts by vinegar, clays mix, freeze dry powders for plants, fruits and etc… so your “true clean” in this sounds more like raw formulations.  A raw type of cosmetics that no need any type of added synthetic ingredients and maybe to keep it more “clean” don’t use heat - keep it below 45oC
    The preservatives that I listed above are sure accepted in organic skincare. 
    And as there is no such thing as “clean” I believe that one is a list of ingredients that is based on your/ company ethos. I more like in what and in what not do you believe that’s all.
    Organic, Vegan, Halal, Kosher those are companies that are there to regulate and define the meaning. How knows maybe in the future someone out there may come up and define “clean”.
    Until then good luck and happy holidays ahead! 
    Marina

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    December 16, 2022 at 4:01 am in reply to: “Clean” Preservatives

    GEOGARD ULTRA® INCI: Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate

    Solubility: Water soluble pH Stability: 3.0-6.0 Usage Level: 0.75-2.0%
    Geogard Ultra® is a synergistic, patented blend designed to provide broad spectrum preservation in personal care and cosmetic formulations. It contributes an added skin moisturisation benefit to the product and conforms with COSMOS, NATRUE and the Soil Association. Geogard Ultra™ will preserve most water-based cosmetic formulations, including shampoos, lotions and creams. It works by slowly releasing gluconic acid over time, which helps contribute to the preservation.

    OPTIPHEN™ BS/ROKONSAL™BS INCI: Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate 

    Solubility: Water soluble pH Stability: up to 5.4 Usage Level: 0.5-1.5% Optiphen™ BS/Rokonsal™BS is a nature-identical preservative for cosmetics, that offers broad spectrum protection against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mould. It can be selected for natural or organic personal care products. This preservative supports a variety of natural personal care products. It is recommended for use in products with a pH of 5.4 or below. The lower the pH of the formulation, the better the efficacy of the preservative. It is ECOCERT, COSMOS, NATRUE and BDIH-compliant.

    COSPHADERM® MULTIMEG INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate, Pentylene Glycol, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

    Solubility: Oil/alcohol soluble pH Stability: 3.5-7.5 Usage Level: 1.0-1.4% Cosphaderm® MultiMEG is one of the multifunctionals that combine several properties to boost a formulation in different ways in addition to a high antimicrobial activity. None of these carefully selected substances are listed as preservatives in the EU Cosmetics Regulation, however they show strong efficiency against bacteria, yeast and mould.

    LEXGARD® NATURAL MB INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate

    Solubility: Insoluble in water pH Stability: 4.0-8.0 Usage Level: 1.0-1.5% Lexgard® Natural MB is an all-natural, multi-functional ingredient system as it also works as an emollient, co-emulsifier and skin re-fatting agent for self-preserving cosmetics. It is primarily effective against bacteria and yeast with some efficacy against mould, therefore it is best to combine it with a stronger yeast and mould agent. Lexgard® Natural MB has a pH range of 4.0-8.0 but has been shown to work best at pH 5.5. It is especially recommended for use in O/W or W/O emulsion systems such as skin care creams and lotions.

    GEOGUARD® ECT/PRESERVATIVE ECO INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid

    Solubility: Water soluble pH Stability: 3.0-8.0 Usage Level: 0.6-1.0%
    The Geoguard® ECT/Preservative ECO blend’s novel composition offers broad spectrum protection in a diverse range of products against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and moulds. It is a preservation system that meets the ECOCERT standards and is COSMOS accepted and has a wide range of global regulatory acceptance. It is compatible for use in a wide range of skin care, hair care and sun care systems and has a low odour and excellent safety profile. It is suitable for O/W emulsions, W/O emulsions and anhydrous products.

    DERMOSOFT® 1388 ECO INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate

    Solubility: Water soluble pH Stability: 4.0-5.5 Usage Level: 2.0-4.0%
    Dermosoft® 1388 ECO is a 100% naturally-derived, COSMOS approved ingredient for natural cosmetics. It has very good microbial efficiency against Gram-positive bacteria, Gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Dermosoft® 1388 ECO is suitable for all types of emulsions and surfactant-based products; it is also pH sensitive. In emulsions, it has a synergistic boosting effect in combination with antimicrobial surface-active substances such as Dermosoft® GMCY (see above, where we mention preservative boosters) which helps to improve the performance of the preservative.

    Also you need to understand that “clean” beauty is just a marketing shit that someone out there created for they own benefit. Because if you want to put it in more simple way - water is a chemical - so there for you should not use it! LOL

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    December 16, 2022 at 4:01 am in reply to: “Clean” Preservatives

    Hey there - those are same natural preservatives 

    VERSATIL® TBG MB INCI: Triethyl Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Benzoic Acid 

    Solubility: Insoluble in water pH Stability: 4.0-6.0 Usage Level: 1.0-1.5% Versatil® TBG MB is insoluble in water and requires a solubiliser to incorporate it into water-based products and emulsions. Versatil® TBG MB is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and yeast, however it needs to be boosted in its action against mould in order to cover the full spectrum.

    EUXYL® K903 INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Tocopherol

    Solubility: Limited water solubility pH Stability: 5.0-5.5 Usage Level: 0.4-1.2% Euxyl® K 903 is a liquid preservative for personal care products, with strong, broad-spectrum efficacy against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. This is a very effective preservative at low concentrations for all rinse-off and leave-on products. Since the preservative has lipophilic components, it is not completely water soluble; at 20°C, 100g of water will dissolve 1.2g of Euxyl® K 903. For water-based products, a solubiliser will be required to incorporate it into water, however it is best used in products that contain an oil phase.

    LEUCIDAL® SF MAX INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment 

    Solubility: Water soluble pH Stability: 3.0-8.0 Usage Level: 2.0-4.0% Leucidal® Liquid SF MAX is a probiotic-based ingredient created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium. Leucidal® SF MAX provides broad spectrum antimicrobial protection. Leucidal® SF Max can be used in a wide range of cosmetic products, however to ensure optimum results it is recommended that it is incorporated into formulations at a pH between 3 and 8, during the cooling phase of the process at temperatures lower than 70°C.

    SPECTRASTAT™ G2 NATURAL MB INCI: Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycerin 

    Solubility: Oil Soluble pH Stability: 4.0-8.0 Usage Level: 1.0-1.5% Spectrastat™ G2 Natural MB is a 100% natural broad spectrum alternative preservation system made from a blend of multi-functional ingredients. It is oil soluble and may be used in emulsion, anhydrous, and surfactant systems.These include creams, lotions, shower gels and make-up. It may be added in the final stage of formulation.

    OPTIPHEN™ BSB-N/ROKONSAL™BSB-N INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid 

    Solubility: Miscible in water pH Stability: 2.0-5.4 Usage Level: 0.3-1.0% Optiphen™ BSB-N/Rokonsal™BSB-N is a nature-identical preservative for cosmetics. It is a broad spectrum liquid preservative that is effective against Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mould. Optiphen™ BSB-N/Rokonsal™BSB-N was specifically designed for formulations with a pH of 2.0- 5.4 due to the presence of organic acids in its system. The lower the pH of the formulation, the better the efficacy of the preservative. It is ECOCERT, COSMOS, NATRUE and BDIH-compliant. Optiphen™ BSB-N/Rokonsal™BSB-N can be used in both O/W and W/O emulsions.

    OPTIPHEN™ BSB-W INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

    Solubility: Water soluble pH Stability: up to 5.4 Usage Level: 0.3-1.0% Optiphen™ BSB-W is a nature identical preservative for cosmetics, it is broad spectrum protecting against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mould. It can be selected for natural or organic personal care products. This preservative supports a variety of natural personal care products. It is recommended for use in products with a pH of 5.4 or below. The lower the pH of the formulation, the better the efficacy of the preservative. It is ECOCERT, COSMOS, NATRUE and BDIH-compliant.

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    September 5, 2021 at 2:19 am in reply to: Toner

    Hey Folks, 

    I was testing by taking out one ingredient at the time, looks like Water, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate or as call “preservative eco” is the one that made my product greasy. 

    My question now is Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin at 1.00% or “Mild preservative eco” is going to be enough to preserve my product ? - I know I need to do a stability test and a microbe test and make sure that is safe, but before doing that I was just wondering if that will be enough to preserve my product  :) is my first time using this preservative and I don’t know if is also good enough and or will affect my Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 
    I appreciate your respond

    Thank you so much, 
    Marina

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    September 3, 2021 at 1:57 am in reply to: Toner

    Hey Pattsi,

    Thank you so much getting back to me
    The Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is not an extract and the supplier recommends up to 100% usage 

    I believe that some of my other ingredients creates that greasiness, will try with and without since nobody can help me on this :) 

    Thank you so much 
    Marina    

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    June 8, 2021 at 11:45 am in reply to: Reverse Formulation

    Hey Phil, 

    Yes it has a 6M PAO

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    June 8, 2021 at 12:01 am in reply to: Reverse Formulation

    Hi Folks,

    Thank you again for your reply 

    I’m based in Asia and I contacted before both suppliers before - the shop doesn’t deliver outside of Italy . The supplier just will not reply although I used my business email to try and get their attention. It’d be lovely if someone here can help me to find this ingredient / supplier who has it :) 

    I understand that the preservation system is not strong enough, but it didn’t answer my question on how to use the ingredient - the product is at 3.9pH. When I was formulating I was taking the pH though the process and the base has a pH of 5 after adding the preservative and essential oils it jumped to 6.5pH and that is when I used citric acid and bring it back down to 4pH

    Thank you 
    Marina

      

  • MarinaReneia

    Member
    June 7, 2021 at 3:25 am in reply to: Reverse Formulation

    Thank you for betting back to me

    The supplier recommended 1.25% that’s the max I can use.

    That’s why I believe that sodium gluconate acts as a preservative,  but I’m not sure on how to work with this ingredient :( 

    Can you please advice :) 

    Thank you so much 
    Marina