MakingSkincare
Forum Replies Created
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I know someone who might be interested and have just sent you a message
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VitalikButerin, @Perry, @SwiftCraftyMonkey and I are running a free online formulation course: http://www.learncosmeticformulation.com which will teach you formulation basics.
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http://makingskincare.com/surfactant-calculator/
Above is a link to an active matter surfactant calculator which will do the math for you and also gives active matter ranges for different products.
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@ljeoma I might be able to help. Please do send me a message if you are still looking.
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@doglilac I can send you some links - please send me a message.
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http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsions-stability/
I think you will find the above useful.
Also in our discussion group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/) we have a post on ecomulse: https://www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/permalink/522255331233629/ and a post on troubleshooting unstable emulsions: https://www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/permalink/561481643977664/
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I’m not familiar with the scilogex (torque etc matters), you may wish to take a look at my comments in this post where I do recommend some overhead stirrers: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/95/industrial-mixer-for-small-scale-manufacturer-emulsions
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The active matter of your shampoo seems on the low side so you may want to increase the level of surfactants. Can I ask why you included salt in the formula? Salt will not thicken this sulfate-free formula. Do reduce the oil level as this lead to solubilisation issues and also depresses foam. Also check you are complaint with IFRA with regard to your fragrance. Do add a broad spectrum preservative and disodium EDTA as others have stated.
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Can you get hold of Varisoft 432 PPG?
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Many homecrafters who make batch sizes of less than 300g use one of these mini mixers successfully to create the emulsion:
UK/Europe:-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Blenders-Mixers-Food-Processors/Bosch-MSM2623GGB-Dips-Dressings-Hand-White-Green/B01HODZ19K (use the white attachment for batch sizes of less than 300g and the normal metal attachment for more than 300g).The above mixers are more powerful, giving higher shear than the norpro white mixer you have which is sold in various places such as Brambleberry and on ebay/amazon etc. For obvious reasons, please do not use a normal coffee frother - the one with the wire whisk type round head!
The trick to avoid incorporating air bubbles is to hold the head of the mixer deep inside the emulsion and hold the mixer still and upright/vertical. You will need to make a larger batch size than the one in your photo to be able to do this and you can also try a smaller diameter beaker! Do not move the mixer around too much otherwise air will be introduced.Good luck
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@PharmaSpain I’m curious what you bought in the end and whether you were happy with it.
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Mich, I have the honeywell contacts for the USA so do PM me if you need this. I am not sure which Country you are located.
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There is no agreed definition of “natural” but there are organisations that have come up with their own definitions: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmetic-chemists-guide-to-natural-and-organic-cosmetic-standards/
Decide on which natural standard you wish to abide by and then check their list of permitted ingredients.
Some info on how to formulate a shampoo:-
https://itsallinmyhands.com/2013/04/23/on-surfactants-and-formulation-face-wash-shampoo-and-shower-gels/And an online diploma course on how to formulate natural/organic shampoo:-
https://formulatenaturalcosmetics.thinkific.com/?ref=82be25Chemistscorner also run a course on how to formulate natural skin/hair products.
Cosmetic Chemists Guide to Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards
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Goldie, the fragrance needs more base notes (see: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/158437-Primer-on-How-to-Make-Perfume-(Version-1-0)) and fixatives such as vertofix can also be added.
Also, for the lotion/cream itself, you can add a cationic ingredient such as cationic guar to help the lotion (and therefore fragrance) stay longer.
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here are a few options - makigel ol, kraton G or kraton A, transgel, ethocel Std 100 premium, dextrin palmitate, oleocraft
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Johnb I was actually referring to GaryDoo’s link in his first comment which is to optiphen being sold on ebay.
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You may wish to ditch your current emulsifier and replace with the ones mentioned here which are generally more stable and easier to work with: http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsifiers/
Most homecrafters in Ireland buy from soapkitchenonline or gracefruit in the UK. They stock optiphen but might have renamed it so do check the INCI. If you prefer to buy in Euros, aliacura.de is a good supplier with reasonable postage prices. I would not, generally advise to buy cosmetic ingredients from ebay or amazon.
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Also bear in mind the regulations in your Country. For the EU, cetrimonium chloride is only permitted in leave in hair products up to 1%.
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This is a useful site: https://itsallinmyhands.com/2013/04/20/how-to-formulate-a-detergent/
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As others here have said you might want to start again and learn surfactant formulation basics before tackling this. This is a useful quick site: https://itsallinmyhands.com/2013/04/20/how-to-formulate-a-detergent/
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Lauryl glucoside will need heating. I am not sure which powders you have as you didn’t specify.
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John it means “period after opening” (EU Cosmetic Regs). befremovska: You will need to conduct stability and PET tests to determine the shelf life. If the shelf life is less than 30 months it must be labelled with a best before date (date of minimum durability). If the shelf life is greater than 30 months best before is not required, and the Period After Opening (PAO) is indicated using the “open jar” symbol. But PAO is not applicable to certain product eg anhydrous, single use packs.
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Pentylene glycol is known to crash viscosity and it’s not a broad spectrum preservative. You need two emulsifiers - you only have one. Pair up glyceryl stearate with ceteareth 20 - both are sold by lotioncrafter in the USA (use germall plus). (Ceteareth 20 doesn’t produce gels). Emulsan II isn’t sold by DIY suppliers in the USA unfortunately.
Do use the right amount of emulsifier: http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsifiers/
http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsions-stability/Sepigel is sensitive to electrolytes so some proteins might not work with it. For a thicker lotion you can also increase the level of cetyl alcohol.
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Yes Matt, all the ones I mentioned above were stable with common vegetable oils.