[Lara]

I ve worked with a Dow corning product - silicone elastomer blend 9040. For clearness you have to watch out for the polarity of the oils you add. I dont like it so much due to its strong inherent odour.
Dow already developed elastomer blends not containing cyclomethicone. Im curious when i will get my sample:)
In the datasheet they say the product is not as sensible for the polarity. May be also the odour is not so worse.

[Lara]

This Sounds interesting!
If you have communicating Problems May be i can help for translation.

I also think there is no problem with the pricing if your product really works and usable at low dosages.

[Lara]

Hey all,
Sorry i wasnt Online a long time.
10days results are available now. Rf, rt and 50℃.
All samples shower to be unstable at 50℃ after 10d. Fortunately the old STD is the worst when it comes to separation an Top of the formula. All the samples showed to build Kind of liquid filled craters on the surface. Besides the sample containing sorbitan stearate.-here a complete Phase separation was visible.
For all the reworks i combined the phases at 70℃. Seems to be a good point to start. Im Looking forward for one month 40℃.
Thanks for the advise about cutina hr. I will try this when the Test failes.
Thanks for all your help

[Lara]

Hey yq1,
We are using the same kind of starch. May be this is the point. I will later have a look an the datasheet again.
Unfortunately priorities have changed in my department, so we were not able to solve the Problem by now.
As we just prepare small batches it was concluded to be stabile for two months and when base is needed it will be stored in fridge.
I dont like this result

Lara

Member

February 13, 2015 at 5:21 am in reply to: Preservative

Ive read recently that glycerin is a preservative enhancer as it is a glycol. Is this right?

[Lara]

Ive read recently that glycerin is a preservative enhancer as it is a glycol. Is this right?

[Lara]

Hey yq1,

What Kind of starch are you using?
We have also tired to recreate a market product containing starch, water, oil, fatty acids…we did not recognize clumping, but water separation at room temperature after Three months. All other tested conditions were stable. Even 50℃. Ridiculus!

[Lara]

Thank you so much perry!
There Seen to be some interesting topics in there.
I will discuss with my boss if we can order this book.

[Lara]

Good morning all,
Yesterday i was able to Set up the Test serie. Three months of waiting and we will have the results.
As there was some time left i set up an additionally test where i acded 1% of sorbitan stearate to the oil Phase to see what happens. When cooles down i had to recognice the emulsion was way thinner Than the starting formula. Does this mean my formula is overloaded with emulsifiers?
Really im making the first experiences with formulating w/os

[Lara]

Do you want to use it for ph regulation? Sorry, im not so experienced with lactates, as the lactates i tried once changed the odour of my formula to very unpleasant when stored at 40℃. Thats why i cant answer your question.
But for sodium lactate you could try ashland disribution company

[Lara]

May be its enough to use an steril Filter and an deonizer column?

[Lara]

Sorry, i am just wondering if the recent comments have been deleted?

[Lara]

Hey Belassi
The texture of the formula is w/o like. But unfortunately i have defenetively no w/o - expierience wether theoretically nor practically. Additionally i am left alone at work with this problem.
is there another way to detect if it is an w/o or an o/w with an easy quick test.7
Some of the contained ingredients i would not put in any formula that i develope from the start. But i just have to look that we are on the safe side with the use of the surfactant.
Sorry, that i am so a newbie

[Lara]

Thank you for your very fast answer.
Sorry, that i was not clear enough! The preservative is added, when the emulsion is cooled down to RT again.
As the formula was developed a while ago before i started i am not so into the ideas behind the mi.
But i think i should really try to use a lower temperature to combine the phases to see if they are stable longer than three months RF, RT, 40°C.

Today i had another thought…In some literature i found, that glycerin/glycols and/or magnesium sulfate can be used to stabilize the w/o, but if added at a too high dosage of both, they can react also to make the formula unstable.
As the new preservative now also containes a glycerine i thought that may be this border is reached….
So I will also go down with the total glycerine amount in the formula to see what will happen.
Thank you for your support!

[Lara]

For example i have a formula like this:

Phase A:
Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate                                          1.0
polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxy stearate                            4.0
Ceresin                                                                       1.0
Mineral oil, low visc.                                                     8.0
Isopropyl palmitate                                                       7.0
Dicapryl carbonate                                                       3.0

Phase B:
Aqua, demin.                                                                67.7
Glycein                                                                        6.5
Magnesium sulfate                                                        1.0

Phase C
Mixtures of parabens (OLD)
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin(NEW)                      0.5

Fragrance 0.3%

The phases are combined at 80°C
With braking I mean that the surfaces are bleeding.

Additionally I have to say, that we dont do microbiological test, we just evaluate visually and olfactively the single bases and we also compare the new one against the old one.

[Lara]

I’ve also read abou the hydrolized lanolin, but the question that comes in my mind is the reactivity of the product. Does it have the Same properties? Do you need a higher amount?
I can understand that there are perfumed products. The company i am working for is also into ‘malodor coverage’.
But i just knew some other products that are covered.
For the First time it works really well, but before testing you never Know what will happen when stored at increased temperatures.

[Lara]

Hey zink,

Sorry, but i think that sheep-derived lanolin will not be available odourless, as the ingredients contained have this inherent odour. As i read in the Internet some sientists are developing vegan ingredients that are chemically comparable. May be its possible to get one of this, or to use an ingredient with comparable properties.

Another option would be to Cover the odour

[Lara]

Ah, ok.

I’m still not so much into the possible side effects like acne. Please let me know about the results. Im curious about it.

In the meantime i think about thickeners i’ve already worked with. May be i can find something usefull.

[Lara]

Hey Belassi,

thank you so much for your answer!
I did not knew, that there is a possibility to have a white microemulsion, as all the information I found said, microemulsions are translucent to clear due to the small droplet size.
Earlier last year I also developed a sprayable emulsion that is very low viscous, but the technique of this i think was pit-emulsion, using very light feeling esters.

I really think when I am back at work tomorrow I have to look up if we have some kind of silicone esters on stock!

For the thickening/stabilizing of your cream what do you think about adding low dosages of waxes like candelilla wax? Or adding an co-emulsifier like caprylyl glycol? As I am not so long working in the field of cosmetics I hope this is not a bullshit…

For the way to go…once my boss said a good thing: There are no mistakes in development because there can always come out new ideas

[Lara]

Hey Perry,

sorry for my newbie-questions.
I looked your video and find it super interesting.
But when I think about dry water, powdery water comes into my mind. The formula, where water is dispersed in really small droplets to be ‘encapsulated’ in silica.
When i search dry water in google i can also just find this version.

But I also found a related video about ‘super hydrophobic coating’, which could have been covering the finger that had been put in the water in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPM8OR6W6WE

I would like to think about if it could be an alternative for surfactants, but as I am not sure what this technic is about I wanted to ask you if you have a link to read something about the technic you wanted to discuss?

Thank you!

[Lara]

Hey,

Maybe you can use ultrasound afterwards? I dont Know how it works scaled up, but i use it in laboratory size.

Another idea would be to use a centrifuge if there is nothing in your formula that could separate.

Hope this helps!

[Lara]

Hey zink,

Take a look:

http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/product.asp?product_id=oilolsquales720

Hope i typed it right!

Regards,

Lara

[Lara]

Hey belassi,

the formula you created before was a macroemulsion?

I have heard that microemulsions are almost clear, with blue shimmer and Show a loss of viscosity (regarding macroemulsions). Did your emulsion Change from creamy white to clear bluish?

I did a lot of research about microemulsions, but all testresults I had did not fit my aims:( I have the feeling this needs a lot of studying… All formula I created contained lots of surfactans, showed a higher viscosity with edges occuring when stored for 1month at RT. Also they were more Sticks Than light feeling (due to the higher amout of surfactants I think.)

Maybe I should try your emulsifier?

Do you have any tips for formulating microemulsions?

Thanks a lot!

Lara

[Lara]

Hello all,

my name is Lara and I’m from Munich.
I’ve made an apprentinceship as a chemical laboratory assistant at a university for food technology.
Since 2 1/2 years I am working at a fragrance house as a ‘laboratory assistant development’ and my job is to rework existing formula to actual customer desires or - our new aim - developing new cosmetic formula (regarding physical properties/skin feel/…).
This contains planning, development and stability testing for all personal care but decorative.
Before this job I never gave a single thought about cosmetics but now I am really passionate about it!
I can’t stop doing research and I would like to find solutions for all existing problems in the formulations I know ha ha

I’m so happy that I’ve found this page and I’m looking forward for some exchange.