ketchito
Forum Replies Created
-
@Abdullah The stability of 3 months at 40°C would be OK to check for creaming of the silicone. Regarding your system, you really need to test it, but usually Xanthan gum is not as good stabilizer as Carbomers, and 5000 mpas might not be enough (start at 7K). Also, the amodimethicone emulsion is not soluble in water, but dispersible, and the silicone droplets are not miscible, so instability might occur. One option to reduce risk of creaming is to use a microemulsion.
-
@Abdullah I’d check for the heat stability of that formula, since creaming of silicone macroemulsions without a suspending a stabilizer can be an issue.
-
@Adamnfineman I believe you need a more polar media for menthol to exert its cooling action. For instance, water base shampoos that use as little as 0.05% of Menthol, already show a perceivable effect on scalp.
-
@Abdullah i’m not aware of a ratio for this, every formula is different and surfactant selection always play a role.
Btw, if you use a cationic polymer as deposition aid, you better use a non ionic silicone (like dimethicone) instead of amodimethicone.
-
drjayseesunish said:ketchito said:@drjayseesunish You could start with this book: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Detergents-Surfactant-Science-2005-08-23/dp/B01A1M5CE0.
This is unavailable dear, any other source if you know.
You can check for this book in Genesis Library.
-
@drjayseesunish You could start with this book: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Detergents-Surfactant-Science-2005-08-23/dp/B01A1M5CE0.
-
@GeorgeBenson If I remmember correctly, the distearate forms more flat crystal sheets, which allows to get more shine, compared to the monostearate. Now, I’d advise you to get a sample of that commercial product and put it in the oven to see if the pearlizer holds still…I’ve had many dissapointments from commercial products with the same lack of suspending agent, which on the other hand allows you to have a better pearl effect and use less of the pearlizing agent.
-
@Abdullah By dry hair I was just referring to free water (there will always be some water within the cortex, but that’s bound water, and won’t act as solvent for actives). When hair loses lipids, it loses insulation, which means water exchange with the environment is more constant and dependent on factors like temperature.
-
jemolian said:From what i’ve seen when comparing the SDS, Sepinov & Sepimax seems to have a higher biodegradability percentage. Is there a particular reason why that could be the case compared to the others?
- Sepinov - 93 % - Inherent - 28 days
- Sepimax - 79 % - Inherent - 28 days
Not reviewing that data, I could tell you that since all polymers are not equal, you could actually expect different biodegradability profiles. Carbomers are hyglhy crosslinked polyacrylates, which make them less biodegradable (without this necessarily mean they are unsafe, as @Perry mentioned). Sepinov for instance is acrylate based, but has more functional groups (cleavage sites) and is not crosslinked.
-
@mikeylamar I’d reduce the sesame oil…some vegetable oils are sometimes sensitizing, especially at higher doses, and you actually don’t need that much. I’d add some esters like caprylic/capric triglycerides. You could also try with some dimethicone and/or mineral oil for improving emoliency.
-
@drjayseesunish CAPB behaves differently at low pH. Did you try a sample with a higher (above 7) pH?
-
@Abdullah If your hair is dry, part of the water would be absorbed and adsorbed (bound) by hair. Also, you’d need to make sure you’re covering all your hair with the product. Keep in mind that deposition of actives is a surface phenomena.
-
@Jimmychemie If the issue is Maillard reaction, you could add some Ascorbic acid, ti see if the issue is resolved. But as @Perry mentioned, many of the ingredients in your formula don’t have any purpose, so if you want rommto keep them for marketing purposes, keep them at the lowest amount possible (0.01% or so).
-
@zetein Peg-80 sorbitan laurate has a higher ethoxylated head and a shorter alkyl chain compared to polysorbate-80, and that’s why it’s better fitted as a detergent (for instance, it foams better). And since it’s a highly ethoxylated detergent, it has very little irritation potential, and that’s why it’s used in tear free shampoos, either as a primary or secondary surfactant.
-
@Abdullah No worries! So, conditioning agents to go where they’re supposed to go, need certain media (polar) to move and diffuse, and water is the perfect media…also, to keep both hair and conditioning agents in the right ionic state for deposition to occur. If your hair is dry, you won’t have this available (except for the water from your product and the one that is bound to the most external layer of your hair, which is barely enough). An exception to this are anhydrous oils, which composition is obviously water free (natural oils, esters, silicones) and whose coating function requires no charge interaction.
-
@MariaSibon it’s nice that you want to improve your knowledge about formulation. Here’s a good reference book: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Detergents-Surfactant-Science-2005-08-23/dp/B01A1M5CE0.
Good luck!
-
@ggpetrov I’m not sure adding carbomer to an emulsion at 40°C would be enough. Keep in mind that at that temperature, a good deal of the micellar structure has already formed. I’d make a test, trying both ways to add it, and evaluate the final result and the stability.
-
Also, you need some media to let conditioning agents diffuse…it’d be like trying to swim in a pool with no water (not sure this is a good analogy, though ????)
-
@Camel I’d increase BTMS-25 up to 5%, and Dimethicone up to 2%. If possible, switch to a 1000 cps dimethicone.
-
Polymers used as ingredients have a wide array of molecular structures and hence, of biodrgradability. For instance, ethoxylated polymers have many cleavage sites which make them both more water soluble and biodegradable than non ethoxylated. Polyamides and polyesters also have a more biodegradable tendency, same as some new polymers, so I wouldn’t treat them all the same way.
-
@Cosmetic_Chemist I hate when clients make these nonsense statements, but I understand now your situation. If it was me, I’d try a sample switching the concentrations you showed in your first post, making the glucoside the main surfactant, and see how it performs.
-
@Rafacasti As far as I know, antioxidants once deposited on the skin, help preventing the formation of reactive oxygen species, a type of free radicals, being a secondary aid to skin protection…but only if they didn’t oxidize yet.
-
@geekchic Cocamide DEA is actually a hard material to replace. As long as you don’t exceed the secondary amine content (5% max for the ingredient, 0.5% max for the finished product) and you don’t use nitrosating agents in your formula (like Bronopol and Bronidox), you’re good to go.
-
@evchem2 Got it. I think it depends on how much polymeric stabilizers reduce the difussion of polyols to the micelles (amount ant type of your polymer), but I believe the only way is to try.
…