ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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If that’s your full formula, I’d think that you have oils of different polarities, and that caused the phase separation. I’d advise you to chech the limit (and type) of polar oils you can mix with your paraffin. That color difference might be since paraffin is colorless and most of the polar oils you mentioned are not.
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If your issue only shows up when you deop the viscosity, then charges might be involved. After a while, do you see some precipitates? Can you make a sample with and without adding any acid to tune pH, and put both samples in the fridge for a few days? Also, what’s your pH before and after adjusting?
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Instead of reverse engineer it, I’d try to make it better, by removing both Glycerin, Ethanol and all of those useless extracts, adding a broad spectrum preservation system, and a cationic polymer for conditioning.
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Replace Decyl glucoside with Sodium cocoyl isethionate, and you’ll have a creamier foam and more viscosity. Also, I think your Glycinate could thicken with a lower pH.
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I wouldn’t replace your BTMS for PQ-37. PQ-37 is a cationically modified polyacrylate, and it has a different function than BTMS. If you want to used, I’dd add some of the PQ-37 to your original base, and see how it feels.<div>
Quaternium-80 is a silicone cationic polymer which mixes the best of both worlds, the solubility of water soluble cationic polymers, and the lubricity of silicones. I’d start with 0.2%, and increase if needed.
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There was a very nice article from Dow on the topic. PQ-10 has both more charge density and hydrophobicity than PQ-7, that’s why it’s the king of deposition. For microemulsions there was some caviat compared to large particle silicones, but I can’t recall what. Nevertheless, I believe better deposition using PQ-10 would still hold for microemulsions.
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I agree with @chemicalmatt. To address milanes, there are different tests. Perhaps in the book, they considered only a test in which SLS showed a better result than ALS. As a general rule, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfates are milder than SLS, and the same happens with Mg copared with Na, and with ethoxylated compared to non ethoxylated anionic surfactants.
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I meant mildness not milanes…damn you spelling checker ????
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The ones we use in water-based cosmetics for instance, have shorter chain lenght and have better solubility (like in soaps), which helps with the process.
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Just outbof curiosity, why would you use a cationic silicone in a skin leave on product? They were made to resist the rinsing process in hair care products, and they are for sure more expensive than non charged silicones….I’m just curious.
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Centrifugue in these type of systems is not the best predictor of stability. You need to put your sample in the oven for few months. Now, gums will peel when dry. You either change your system (emulsion) or accept that they will peel. Pentylene glycol (and other glycols) humect the gum, but there’s just so much you can add before the stickiness kicks in.
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Hi. Amodimethicone is not water soluble. Some ether silicones are water dispersible, but that’s about it. They are large molecules and unlike water soluble polymers, they don’t have enough polar groups to hep disolver them. If you’re making an emulsion, I wouldn’t worry for oil compatibility. If your base is anhydrous, then you need to check its solubility on your base (esters and silicones can be combined up to some limit).
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Keep in mind that sebum is a semi-solid, and caiclium ions are water soluble (at least partially). You need them both to be in the same phase for a reaction to occur.
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For that you need a chelant. Inorganic ions tend to attach and detach in solution, but chelants bind strongly to ions.
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The problem with calcium as with any other divalent ion, is that it coils the anionic polymer or at least, doesn’t let it expand, impairing the hydration process. Monovalent ions like sodium don’t do this and also easier to be exchanged for another cation.
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@Rav Proteins are mostly insoluble, so you shouldn’t have any problem to separete them from glycerol. I believe you might have peptides (hydrolyzed protein). There are ways to coagulate them. The one I remember is making them react with cationic surfactants, but I don’t remember how to remove cationics after, I need to check.
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You could use cationic surfactants or make a LGN like P&G does. Nevertheless, you won’t get the same performance as with cationic polymers + silicones, and they former are usually added to the latter to improve performance. Plus, they are more advanced and very hard to formulate.
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They have a detrimental effect on hair, that’s one of the reasons why we use chelants. Take a look at this article: https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acsabm.8b00386
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Is it a commercial product or raw material that you want to remove the protein from? If it’s an extract where glycerol is the solvent, then you might not have any valuable protein or to be more precise, peptide fraction to recover (proteins are mostly insoluble, that’s why suppliers hydrolyze them first).
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Close to 4.5 or 4.0. If you don’t see an increase in viscosity, then focus more on switching from Decyl glucoside to a more salt-responsive surfactante (like SCI or a sulfonate).
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That your first prototype didn’t show precipitates, could be due to viscosity, since you mentioned it’s gel-like, but it might still have issues. Hemp oil would be an issue only if you see droplets on top…but if your precipitates sink at the bottom, then it’s something else. May I suggest alto to make a sample without siligel?
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In my experience, an emulsion can pass centrifugue and still have stability issues. Heat is a better predictor. For the top layer, it’s hard to tell without knowing the rest of ingredients (eg., non polar oils tend to separate faster in aqueos formulas).
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That can be the case of some cationic surfactants, especially with CTC. But, when properly formulated, there shouldn’t be an issue. For instance, choosing BTMS over BTC for a milder product is advisable.
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The non polar part of the silicon is what gives lubricity to the skin, and on that, if both silicones have the same molecular weight, there’s no difference in performance. On the sticking part, you don’t need it (or want it), that’s why it’s a leave on formula.
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For instance, if you use calciul chloride, in the presence of a cationic polymer, calcium ions won’t interact directly with the polymer, but it’d be chloride ions since they have opposite charge to toe positive ones in the polymer. As I see it, chloride negative charges will attach and detach in solution like any other monovalent ion, without any detrimental effect. The problem would be if you add an anionic surfactant, since calcium ion would compete with the polymer to interact with the anionic surfactant.