[natchemist]

Unfortunately, no one is on top of this matter in my organization, hence the need to figure this out by myself. I’m in NY metro area so any guidance in this forum would be greatly appreciated.

[natchemist]

Sorry, when I said similar, I meant an anhydrous scrub with warming effect. 
Formula:
Glycerin q.s.
Magnesium Sulfate Anhydrous 15%
Montanov 68 (cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside) 2%
Silica dimethyl silylate 2.5%
Coconut Shell powder 1.5%

[natchemist]

@Bobzchemist

My melting point with 25% candelilla was around 48-49°C. 

I know it doesn’t make sense….still trying to figure this out

[natchemist]

@AuroraBorealis It does burn when I leave the liquid emulsion on my face, without the actual sheet 

@Microformulation Phenoxyethanol is in my formula at 0.825%

Still curious why most these products are hydrogels

[natchemist]

I actually started digging into the calcined kaolin thing since Brenntag mentions these are good for absorbing oil and perspiration….the ones we have at work are only colloidal 

http://www.brenntagspecialties.com/en/pages/Markets_IndustriesServed/Personal_Care/Kaolins/index.html

I will try to speak to a representative next week.

[natchemist]

It is separating together with some other surfactants … Because the amount of waxes at the bottom look like it’s more than 1% of the formula

[natchemist]

My viscosity is 3,100 cps LV4@60rpm … so EGDS will settle if not enough viscosity ? … I’ll make a batch with no salt adjustment and see how fast it settles compared to the adjusted one.
My final pH is 5.5

[natchemist]

Sure, here’s my bubble bath formula…

Water  q.s.

Disodium EDTA  0.05%

Propylene Glycol 1%

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% active) 23.2%

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.5%

Cocamide DEA 3%

EGDS 1%

Fragrance 0.25%

D&C Red #33 (0.1% aq.sol.) 0.25%

Citric acid 0.1%

Sodium chloride 0.8%

[natchemist]

@Bill_Toge I’m actually seeing a lot of sedimentation- almost like 1/4 of the jar at the bottom is a waxy pearlized concentrate…based on your insights, I’m thinking it’s not EGDS that settled, but the other surfactants…can that be possible? and why would it look pearlized? is it just like when you use too much stearic acid in a shave cream up to a point that it looks pearlized?

@Perry What do you mean by proper formulation? 

[natchemist]

@erindlea You mention getting a viscous liquid with sodium hydroxide and fatty acids…could I possibly make a thick flowing gel by following what you say? I’m not trying to make a deo, instead I remember trying to duplicate a clear gel that’s in the market and sold in a tube…I was never able to duplicate it by following the IL (see below)

Water, Stearic Acid, Propanediol, Sodium Stearate, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,Xanthan Gum, Capric Caprylic Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol

[natchemist]

Hi Belassi….in which state is your company located? Mexican cosmetic chemist here, but have never worked as such in Mexico

[natchemist]

@milliachemist thanks for your great help!

@bobzchemis I was thinking the same at first but from what I’m seeing, bentonite has Fe impurities so I’m not sure if I would need to end up removing bentonite from my formula

I will make 2 more batches, one with chelating agent and one replacing bentonite and will let you guys know the outcome

Thanks a lot!

[natchemist]

If this lot# of CAPB had more salt than the previous ones, shouldn’t I’ve had to add less salt than before? What happened was the opposite, I had to add much more salt to get the viscosity I wanted. What could’ve been the real cause of haziness and low viscosity?

[natchemist]

After doing some experiments, it was CAPB the one to blame. I used several samples I kept from previous lots and my shower gel came clear and viscous. The CoA’s all look the same though….I wouldn’t have known it could cause an issue by just reading at the specifications like % salt, etc.

[natchemist]

are u using anything to suspend them?

[natchemist]

I’ve never heard about increasing cetyl alcohol to reduce whitening, thanks chemicalmatt!, I will definitely try it in a formula I’m working on. It’s a “natural” formula with no PEG emulsifiers and no silicones. For this reason, I’ve been looking around for ways of solving this issue. 

So far I’ve found raw materials that claim to help address the soaping effect. Some examples are silicone replacements like Softolive from Soliance and Olive LD SP from Clariant. I’ve tried changing my emulsifier with Simulgreen from Seppic. I’ve even tried replacing waxes like stearyl alcohol and stearic acid with things like Cutina HVG from BASF and Compritol 888 from Gattefosse…but nothing has worked so far!  What has worked so far is adding 1% dimethicone, but unfortunately I can’t include it in my formula.

I found an interesting article from BASF explaining that the soaping effect is due to friction foam?? but still I haven’t been able to fully understand why this happens.

http://www.skin-care-forum.basf.com/docs/archivausgaben-1-20/scf10_gb_december1994.pdf?sfvrsn=2

[natchemist]

@chemicalmatt  I’m having stability issues with my clay mask and after comparing  samples before and after adding preservative, I can definitely say it’s the preservative that is causing it.

My mask is actually an emulsion (I’m also against the idea of having oils in the mask, but that’s what our customer wanted) with kaolin and MgAl Silicate. I’m adding phenoxyethanol at the end of the process. 

Is there a reason why adding it at the beginning would make a difference- more stable?

[natchemist]

The only issue I had with this raw was that it was giving a weird odor to my final product…haven’t used it since then

[natchemist]

sorry…I meant to say my final pH without any adjustment is 4, then I want to adjust it to 5.5-6.5

[natchemist]

My final pH is 4, that’s why I need to adjust. I have stearic acid there just for the thickness. 

[natchemist]

For natural pearlizing check out Euperlan Green by BASF…for natural thickener, Glucamate CCO from Lubrizol

[natchemist]

I can’t use Laponite….but will keep it mind for something else in the future, I’ve never used this synthetic clay before. Thanks

[natchemist]

I’m making anti acne so I’m using 2%….so far I’ve been able to solubilize it in 15% propanediol with no recrystallization………..I’m thinking I should be able to use less propanediol, but I haven’t tried though

[natchemist]

Can anybody recommend me where to read about solubility of s.acid?

From what I’m seeing in sample formulas, I’d like to know why surfactants like C14-C16 olefin sulfonate and ethoxylates are used to aid in solubilizing s.acid.

[natchemist]

I just found out Earth Supplied has ESP Mango Grit 20-40 and ESP Mango Grit 40-80 with INCI name Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed.

I’ve requested samples and will let you guys know how they look like when I receive them