JonahRay
Forum Replies Created
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The second formula has borax instead of Naticide tho.
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Its hard to say what is most sufficient. Even if someone recommends one its important to have a preservative efficacy test performed.
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Whats fascinating about the trend of using plant oils is the idea typically is to simplify skincare,make it more pure and closer to nature - ‘a pure oil like olive oil is so basic and comes from nature’. Plant oils are not pure substances, they are mixtures of fatty acids, sterols, tocopherols, phenolic compounds etc., not very simple. One of the articles even says “monounsaturated FFAs such as oleic acid, may disrupt skin barrier and act as permeability enhancers for other compounds present in plant oils”. Sure you could see this as a benefit… but to me its a drawback of using such ingredients.
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Do you mean its forming little pellets? Usually prilling is when a molten solid is dropped and the drop cools to form a pellet. The product is spontaneously forming little pellets?
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Imagine going backwards in cosmetic science advancement and calling it something new… I just feel bad for the consumer - they just want healthy skin 😥
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Lysofix (INCI: Glycerin (and) Glycine soja (Soybean) Seed Extract (Lysolecithin)) is a surfactant in that it emulsifies oil and water but it will not cleanse. You need to revisit your studies on what a shampoo is and what a surfactant is.
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@Jar I think what Perry is saying is that the main ingredients that are contributing to the effect of the product are ones you’ve eliminated therefore you are creating a completely different product, not a copy. It would be best to describe what benefits you want and shape the formulation around that since you aren’t actually trying to copy a formula - just create one with similar benefits.
There are no direct ‘natural’ ingredient alternatives to the main ingredients used in the benchmark product - that really is the challenge.
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Wow! We received a quote from them years back for a service but chose another company - phew!
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I guess that’s why they say to always do a knockout on the fragrance, emulsifier or preservative for issues like this! Good to know!
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Sometimes suppliers will give a concentration range in the SDS.
From the datasheet provided by Lonza - they give a breakdown of Benzyl Alcohol (77–86%) Salicylic Acid (8–15%) Glycerin (3–5%) Sorbic Acid (1–4%).
From the concentration you put in - recommended 0.6%-1% you can get a rough estimate of the concentration of each individual ingredient - likely below the 1% mark anyhow.
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Floor cleaner - but too harsh on skin?
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Well the watermelon glow mask is actually quite nice but really it has nothing to do with the watermelon (mostly water, glycerin, AHAs). The water is just a claims thing. I don’t know whats happening in that video considering that on the LOI for the glow mask there is no preservative. Maybe this information was miss represented in the video and they are just extracting the ‘goods’ from the watermelon. They cut it into slices yet in the barrel its in little balls so clearly there are some process steps missing. The mask works well as a light gel overnight with glycolic/lactic acid for light exfoliation. Glow Recipe products are also very hyped so I’m not convinced its due to their use of fruit juices. Also fragrance is on this list of this particular product so the watermelon isn’t really imparting much fragrance either.
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We used phenoxyethanol + caprylyl glycol as a preservative and did a panel test of 100 to find out nearly 30% had burning / warming / tingling sensations. We found out it was phenoxyethanol and had to switch preservative systems. Just because its in everything right now, doesn’t mean its not potentially an issue. If anything, it being in everything at the moment is precisely the problem.
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Its more a consumer perception thing. They can be formulated any way you please. You just have to pay attention to what the consumer expects which for toner is something much more liquid designed as more of a preparatory step before the remaining steps of a skincare routine.
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Maybe this might help? https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=19001651
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Is it due to the volatility of the silicones?
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Some people will use straight vaseline on their face/body for this - to provide that occlusive layer to trap everything in.
I think the reason for opting for an emulsion as opposed to straight up oil is that you can deliver water soluble ingredients that boost water retention but also cut down on the ‘greasiness’ of the oil phase so that it’s more enjoyable and feels better on the skin.
Also humectants tend to not draw significant moisture from the air unless the humidity is quite high. They will however hold water present in the top layers of the skin and potentially draw water from deeper in the skin up towards the surface.
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I find it bizarre and super shady…like yeah.. the word ‘oil’ doesn’t show up in the formula..
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@MarkBroussard Not lowering for the sake of fudging stability but for getting results for more reasonable conditions. If it’s going to be stable at 45C then I’d like to keep the current formula and be mindful of temperature when shipping. Others seem to be reasonably confident off their 45C stability data.
If it fails 45C after 8+ weeks then that’s another story.
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It might be too late for reformulation in this case. Maybe 50C is pushing it… I could try stability at 45C instead of jumping to reformulating maybe. I’ve had pretty great success with that emulsifier and I like the feel it imparts.
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@MarkBroussard What would suggest as a replacement. The viscosity of the formulations are actually quite high though I’m actually having issues with separation so they won’t go back once at RT.
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Hmm, well if that is the case, lets say I’m shipping across North America, how important do you think stability at 50C is - with the knowledge that it can withstand F/T from freeze - RT- 50C?
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The other components of the oil phase are liquid at RT, we heat to 70C before emulsifying oil and water phase and the emulsion is O/W.
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^ Sorry and Glyceryl Stearate SE as well.
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The emulsifier is cetearyl glucoside/cetearyl alcohol (melting point between 60C-70C) and there are some other thickening agents for the water phase.
I’m doing a more accelerated F/T, from freezer to RT to 50C 3 times over and its going well after 2 cycles. @Perry would you say those results are more reliable?
Maybe I should have done 45C if that is more the standard, they may hold up at that temperature..