johnb

Member

December 23, 2016 at 7:29 am in reply to: Product Specification Sheets

In Europe all cosmetic products must comply with laid down regulations and be approved by a “responsible person”.
The current regulations can be found at Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009

together with amendments:

johnb

Member

December 22, 2016 at 3:16 pm in reply to: What things prevent pearlization of EGDS in shampoo?

Something that’s just come to mind is a memory of a batch of EGMS which refused to form a pearl. After much investigation and consultation with the suppliers it turned out that the stearic acid used for the esterification contained an appreciable amount of unsaturated acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic, etc) due to incomplete hydrogenation of the tallow fatty acid starting material.

I had a look at this effect and found that yes, the presence of unsaturates does affect the ability to produce a pearl effect in EGMS/detergent products.

This was a very long time ago and I’ve forgotten most of the detail.

johnb

Member

December 22, 2016 at 1:31 pm in reply to: Chocolate face mask creates excessive redness and burning sensation

Anahit: Your understanding of a “mask” is different to mine and, I’ll wager, a number of other members here.

My meaning of giving body to the mask is the inclusion of either a clay material which dries and is then washed off, or of a film forming polymer which dries to form a peel-off film. There is no significant absorbtion of the bulk of a mask into the skin.

The items you say give body might well give solidity to the product en masse but are normally classed as emollients and moisturisers intended to be left on.

johnb

Member

December 21, 2016 at 1:47 pm in reply to: What things prevent pearlization of EGDS in shampoo?

“are there other ingredients to produce shine and luster?”
Depends on the product. Under certain conditions some quats (particularly stearyalkonium) will give a pearl effect. Stearic acid can give a very intense pearly sheen under the right conditions/in the right formulation. Guanine crystals obtained from fish scales used to provide a pearl essence but this is no longer available - it was very expensive. For special uses powdered metal flakes (aluminium, copper, copper bronze) give a pearly sheen but these are all but impossible to incorporate into cosmetic products.

johnb

Member

December 21, 2016 at 10:17 am in reply to: Where to find glyoxylic acid

To baldly state that glyoxylic acid is “a compound of two chemicals” shows a fundamental lack of understanding of chemistry. Ozonolysis (as suggested by Bill, but I don’t think he was serious in his suggestion) is a particularly dangerous synthetic procedure - even for those with knowledge and experience.

I always take the view that if a raw material is difficult/impossible to obtain for development work then the likelihood of it being available in commercially useful quantities is zero.

I then start looking at a new approach.

johnb

Member

December 21, 2016 at 8:32 am in reply to: Clothe conditioner

As you are so inexperienced in your venture, it would be best for you to at least learn the basics of what you are trying to do.

A book that helped me in my early days in the soap and detergent industry is

Synthetic Detergents

by

A. S. Davidsohn

(Author),

B. Milwidsky

(Author)

It may be old but most of the information is still current.

It is out of print but is still available from online secondhand booksellers.

johnb

Member

December 21, 2016 at 8:17 am in reply to: Chocolate face mask creates excessive redness and burning sensation

Please clarify what you mean by “mask”. There is little or nothing in your listing that would give body to the product unless it were present in an amount grossly in excess of the norm. Resveratrol at 2% seems an overdose, as does CoQ10 at 5%. What is the function of the cacao powder?

In my opinion a revisit to the whole concept would be best.

johnb

Member

December 20, 2016 at 1:12 pm in reply to: “bee cosmetics” formulator required

Burt’s Bees has the bee cosmetics market pretty much sewn up http://www.burtsbees.com/

Are you looking for someone to produce look-alikes for these or to venture into new areas? If the former then you need a formulator who is able to interpret the LOI into a practical formulation. If the latter you need an innovation chemist able to formulate new and interesting products - these are few in number and, bear in mind, any market for these products is likely to be quite small.

johnb

Member

December 20, 2016 at 11:30 am in reply to: Micro encapsulated retinol - how?

I always think that microencapsulation (especially microcapsules made by coacervation) is a good way of throwing ingredients into the trash without them ever having a chance to show their effect.

You will find that the vast majority of microcapsules in any product remain as just that - microcapsules still containing their payload - even after use.

johnb

Member

December 20, 2016 at 11:22 am in reply to: Chocolate face mask creates excessive redness and burning sensation

To give us a better idea about this product would you give us an ingredient list in order of quantity of each component. (I can’t believe that resveratrol is the third quantitative ingredient).

johnb

Member

December 17, 2016 at 8:34 am in reply to: Adding licorice to a hair conditioner

Your first mention of coffee products on here was October 30 when you were in the process of formulating your shampoo. You state the product is already on the market.
Have you carried out any stability testing on any of these products? Physical/chemical stability, storage testing, microbiological testing?

johnb

Member

December 16, 2016 at 10:05 am in reply to: Light Hydrant Face Cream Help welcomed

MKnight - I think you’ve misunderstood the aim and function of this forum.

johnb

Member

December 15, 2016 at 8:21 am in reply to: Saponins

Saponins can never compete with the price of synthetic detergents, are difficult/near impossible to formulate into an acceptable product where they form a significant proportion of the detergent blend.
The foam generated by saponins tends to be “dry” and unpleasant - it carries this over to the hair which it is treating.
As you say, saponins tend to be irritating to the eyes and also to the skin so, all in all, probably best to give it a miss.

johnb

Member

December 14, 2016 at 2:01 pm in reply to: Advice for new buisiness?

You have the information, what do you expect from here?
We cannot (figuratively) hold your hand to produce these things, you have to put in some effort yourself. Having said that, the lack of expertise on your part is quite worrying considering you hope to capture the majority of the market in your country.

johnb

Member

December 14, 2016 at 8:10 am in reply to: Advice for new buisiness?

The easiest thing in the first instance would be to obtain a bottle of each of the brands you are trying to emulate or check on the Internet and read the list of ingredients.

johnb

Member

December 13, 2016 at 3:35 pm in reply to: Preserving unstable actives

The thing that raised my curiosity was the use of the term “blanket” in this context. I was considering that “blanket” was a covering.

Thanks for your explanation.

johnb

Member

December 13, 2016 at 2:57 pm in reply to: Preserving unstable actives

“Have you tried an Ethoxydiglycol “blanket”?”

Can you explain, please?

johnb

Member

December 11, 2016 at 2:17 pm in reply to: found the formula use by china manufacturer and claim natural?

The list of ingredients does not correspond to the appreance of the products illustrated on your link e.g. a product containing mica or iron oxide would not be transparent.

There is no water in the declared formula thus the title “water based” is incorrect.

Phenyl trimethicone is completely a product of the chemical industry, not nature. It is very unlikely that the propyl paraben is naturally sourced, likewise the fragrance

johnb

Member

December 11, 2016 at 12:54 pm in reply to: What things prevent pearlization of EGDS in shampoo?

The pearl effect of EGMS or EGDS is lost in soap.

The only reliable method of pearlising soap is with a suitable grade of treated mica.

johnb

Member

December 11, 2016 at 8:48 am in reply to: Best Impeller Type For Overhead Stirrer For Mixing Cleansers

If anyone is interested in making their own stirrer in the design I highlighted above be aware the the toothed disc on the stirrer shaft is at an angle of about 10 degrees off horizontal. This is not apparent from the illustration on the IKA site. The offset is necessary to give efficient stirring action.