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Chocolate face mask creates excessive redness and burning sensation
Hi dear all,
I am working on formulating a chocolate face mask with the following ingredients:
Water, Glycerin, Resveratrol, Green Tea extract, Guar gum, Coconut oil, Shea butter, Cetyl alcohol, Soy Lecithin, Sunflower oil, Jojoba oil, CoQ10, Hyaluronic acid, Cocoa powder, Mixed Tocopherols, Chocolate extract ( flavor), Sodium Phytate, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl alcohol, DHA.The pH of the finished product is 5.5, and yet when applied to face it creates a rather unpleasant burning feeling and deep redness of the skin in just couple of minutes. None of the ingredients I use is supposed to trigger such effect, and yet some combination of the components obviously does it. Can some one help me to recognize what exactly combination is that?
Thanks beforehand for an advise!
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10 Replies
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There are absolutely no other ingredients? No clay, for instance?
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To give us a better idea about this product would you give us an ingredient list in order of quantity of each component. (I can’t believe that resveratrol is the third quantitative ingredient).
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(I can’t believe that resveratrol is the third quantitative ingredient).
- Exactly, and not only that, resveratrol is not soluble in any of the listed ingredients. -
Have you tested each ingredient separately on skin yourself? Because “not supposed to irritate” isn’t at all the same thing as “doesn’t irritate in our tests”.
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1. I have certainly tested all ingredients separately: none of them is irritating. 2. There is no clay in the mask, because it is supposed to be nutritive rather then cleaning. 3. Resveratrol is used at 2 % and is dispersed in glycerin. Could it be that the concentration of it is high? Or maybe I should rather dissolve it in ethanol? CoQ10 concentration is 5%.
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does it cause redness on other people as well? lower your solvents, “fairy dust” in all the INCI claim materials, coq10/DHA/BzOH/etc etc
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Please clarify what you mean by “mask”. There is little or nothing in your listing that would give body to the product unless it were present in an amount grossly in excess of the norm. Resveratrol at 2% seems an overdose, as does CoQ10 at 5%. What is the function of the cacao powder?
In my opinion a revisit to the whole concept would be best.
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@ Johnb : “There is little or nothing in your listing that would give body to the product ” - disagree. I have Coconut oil, Shea butter, Cetyl alcohol as thickener, and Soy lecythin as emulsifier. The whole mask feels, looks and smells yummy, like a chocolate. I will try to lower resveratrol and CoQ10 - see if it helps
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@ chickenskin: what do you mean by ‘Fairy dust’? Could you please clarify? ‘Benzyl alcohol & DHA’ is just a commonly used preservative (Cosgard), and I use it in many other products without any problems.
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Anahit: Your understanding of a “mask” is different to mine and, I’ll wager, a number of other members here.
My meaning of giving body to the mask is the inclusion of either a clay material which dries and is then washed off, or of a film forming polymer which dries to form a peel-off film. There is no significant absorbtion of the bulk of a mask into the skin.
The items you say give body might well give solidity to the product en masse but are normally classed as emollients and moisturisers intended to be left on.
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