[jemolian]

Well, if you want to use Sodium Lactate or Gluconolactone, that would be fine as well.

Though with the Sodium Lactate, you will need to use Sepimax Zen or no polymeric emulsifier at all as they won’t be able to take the electrolytes. You can consider your previous combination, Sepimax Zen + Gum, if not a normal emulsifier with fatty alcohol or acid should be fine as well.  

With Gluconolactone, the pH will go in 2 directions so the ultimate amount to add would vary. Not sure if it’s something that you want to try out but it’s this formulation would be one that you’d need to observe more closely. 

[jemolian]

From my experience with making a Urea creams, here’s what i’d recommend with the similar ingredients. 

Water Phase

• Distilled Water
• Glycerin (1.5% - 3%)
• Urea (5%)
• Buffer - Triacetin (0.25%) 

Oil Phase

• Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (15% - 20%)
• Sepinov EMT 10 (1.2%)

Others

• pH Buffer - Lactic Acid (q.s)
• Preservative as required

Instructions:

1. Dissolve/add the ingredients into the distilled water 
2. Slurry the Sepinov EMT 10 in the CCT
3. Add the slurry into the water phase and mix till gel
4. Add the remaining ingredients 

— 

I’d recommend to make a fresh batch to retain the maximum effect of the Urea since it will break down in water over time. You can make one batch ever 2 months or so? You can observe the pH and for any bubbling.

The pH shouldn’t shoot up as much with the Triacetin, however you can choose to use other buffers, then you can opt for Sepimax Zen, if not the Sepinov EMT 10 should be easier to deal with as the Sepimax Zen requires some hydration duration. 

http://www.iscd.it/files/UREA-FROM-THE-CHEMIST-S-POINT-OF-VIEW.pdf

[jemolian]

Not sure if you have checked out the sample formulations from Lubrizol from UlProspector. 
https://www.ulprospector.com/en/asia/PersonalCare/Suppliers/849/Lubrizol/search?k=hand+sanitizer&st=1&so=k_0&sl=88396652

I’ve used IPA mixed with fragrance with Sepimax Zex or Aristoflex AVC and a humectant. I can’t use Ultrez as i don’t have the suitable neutralizer as it fails on me.  

[jemolian]

By “rub off” effect, it’s normally caused by the thickeners. I find that some polymeric thickeners do that for my formulation.  

[jemolian]

For me, the difference between milk, emulsion, lotion & creams would only be the viscosity which is changeable with suitable thickeners. The difference between face and body products would mainly be the choice of ingredients but not really the product category itself.  

[jemolian]

For Betaine, normally i’d only use a max of 5%, you can see the recommended range by Dupont, though they have test of about 4% or so mentioned in their marketing brochure. 

For Pentavitin, some people might find it tacky as well, so it’s best that you do a test on this ingredient by itself. 

[jemolian]

You can look into emulsifier blends that can make sprays. One of the common one would be Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, it is produced by companies so it has quite a few trade names such as Arlacel 165 or Simulsol 165.

[jemolian]

Not sure if there’s actually a range for viscosity, though i believe i’ve seen sample formulations that range from 20,000+ cPS to 100,000+ cPs. 

[jemolian]

Betaine is edible and is a supplement. You can check if any supplement stores will provide the certs or documentation you require. 

[jemolian]

Normally i’d consider using a starch if i want to degrease or give it a drier / powdery skin feel.  

Maybe you can list the preservation system you want to use,the percentage of Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate you want to use and see what feedback others might give and 

[jemolian]

Then perhaps increase the percentage of the carbomer you want to use? 

Using a starch might challenge the preservation system more than you think and the cost may be higher than just increasing 0.1% to 0.3% of carbomer. 

The pH would still depends on what your requirements would be. If your intention is to make a cream that is “pH balanced” or if it’s meant to stabilize certain actives, then it’s best you stick to it. 

Choose a logical or cost effective option. 

[jemolian]

When i use carbomers or other Ultrez i tent to leave the pH at around pH 4.8 to pH 5, slightly above the pH for gelling so personally i’m not that bothered by what you are mentioning. 

[jemolian]

Actually what kind of enhanced sensory experience are you looking for?

Normally there should be a texture or skin feel profile / description for the emulsifiers from the manufacturer, so you will be able to select by looking for their brochures. 

I use a combination of natural derived / synthetic ingredients. All of them would still change the skin feel or experience of the end product slightly so you might want to consider more than just the emulsifier.  

[jemolian]

It depends on what other accompanying ingredients you use it with, such as if the emulsifier you use contains any other fatty alcohol, your gums, your synthetic thickeners, etc. 

If i use it, i will use 1.5% to 3%. I combine it with an emulsifier and synthetic thickener. Sometimes i don’t use as well as the emulsifier already contain a fatty alcohol. 

[jemolian]

It’s possible if the rest of the ingredients are lesser than the Disodium EDTA. You might want to list the ingredient? 

[jemolian]

Some of the other humectants you can consider would probably be: 

• Sodium PCA
• Pentylene Glycol
• 1,2-Hexanediol
• Propanediol
• Methyl Gluceth-20 or Methyl Gluceth-10
• Glycereth-26

I normally will use 1% to 1.5% Glycerin with 1% to 2% Betaine. It’s only slightly tacky at higher humidity like 70+%. In low humidity, it’s far still alright. 

[jemolian]

Choose the one you want based on your formulation requirements, cost or marketing requirements. 

[jemolian]

@Cafe33 I don’t really follow the ratio actually. I just add the arginine slowly and observe the neutralization which normally happens at around pH 4.2, and then add a little more to get to the pH i want, which is around pH 4.8 to pH 5 or so. 
 
I tried the 4.5:1.0 in the very beginning when testing with Ultrez once to see what will happen, i believe it ended at about pH 9 to pH 10.  

[jemolian]

From the Neutralizing Carbopol and Pemulen in Aqueous and Hydroalcoholic Systems pdf. I use Arginine. 

[jemolian]

Perhaps it’s good to take a look at the constituents, if we were to look at the trends, i believe Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate has been there for years, and on trend ingredients would probably be Centella Asiatica or it’s constituents such as TECA (from Seppic; Asiaticoside (and) Madecassic Acid (and) Asiatic Acid) or Madecassoside. 

[jemolian]

I’ve tested in water: 

• 1% Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) 
• 1% SymDiol 68 (INCI: 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol)
• 1% Euxyl PE 9010 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)

The only warming feeling i felt was from the ones containing Caprylyl Glycol which are Optiphen & SymDiol 68. Perhaps i’m slightly sensitive to Caprylyl Glycol? 

[jemolian]

Using Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) gives me a warm feeling so i no longer use it. I suspect it’s the Caprylyl Glycol.

[jemolian]

I’m not certain what AW means since the image is from a comment from the MakingSkincare (on facebook), there don’t remember one else asking about it when i saved it for reference. We will have to see what the others say. 

Update, it would seem to mean Water Activity: https://books.google.com.sg/books?id=QAC0DQAAQBAJ&pg=PT607&lpg=PT607&dq=aw+%3D+0.8+skin+care&source=bl&ots=4gEgiwtePv&sig=ACfU3U3adq-RJUqo10EHCkWTayV4dCP-Tg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjX8LP_2tTmAhUGWX0KHc_CCNsQ6AEwCnoECAUQAQ#v=onepage&q=aw%20%3D%200.8%20skin%20care&f=false

For the essential oils, i don’t think it’s something that i’d use. But it depends if you want to go for an essential oil free product. Some people have sensitive skin so they may tend to look for something without additional additives like fragrance or essential oils. 

If pH 5 an issue with Carbomer 940? Shouldn’t they start to gel at pH 4.5 or higher?  

[jemolian]

To be honest, i’m not sure how robust the Euxyl PE 9010 is going to be but it still largely depends on the other factors, including the selection of ingredients, chelating agent usage, container, preservative boosters, and other hurdle factors. 

I believe you also has a post on this: 
Normally i’d just purchase my ingredients from China resellers (on Taobao since i have an alipay account and forwarding) in small batches which is about 200 of them out of my 240+?  Though sometimes i’d have my doubt on the authenticity of a few of the ingredients since normally i’d do my patch test with them and they don’t seem to work for my skin but works for my relatives, so it’s just very weird. 

[jemolian]

I use Euxyl PE 9010 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) for my own DIY, i haven’t not put it through testing since it’s just for my own use. If you are concerned about alternative preservatives, it’s best to use a more robust one especially if you are intending to selling it. 

For carbomers, i tent to use Ultrez 10, 20, 21 since they hydrate faster, I’ve not yet used 940 or 980. For Sepimax Zen, it can be slightly tacky i feel, so i don’t use it often. At 0.3% would be it more of a lotion viscosity?