[jemolian]

Normally i’d consider using a starch if i want to degrease or give it a drier / powdery skin feel.  

Maybe you can list the preservation system you want to use,the percentage of Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate you want to use and see what feedback others might give and 

[jemolian]

Then perhaps increase the percentage of the carbomer you want to use? 

Using a starch might challenge the preservation system more than you think and the cost may be higher than just increasing 0.1% to 0.3% of carbomer. 

The pH would still depends on what your requirements would be. If your intention is to make a cream that is “pH balanced” or if it’s meant to stabilize certain actives, then it’s best you stick to it. 

Choose a logical or cost effective option. 

[jemolian]

When i use carbomers or other Ultrez i tent to leave the pH at around pH 4.8 to pH 5, slightly above the pH for gelling so personally i’m not that bothered by what you are mentioning. 

[jemolian]

Actually what kind of enhanced sensory experience are you looking for?

Normally there should be a texture or skin feel profile / description for the emulsifiers from the manufacturer, so you will be able to select by looking for their brochures. 

I use a combination of natural derived / synthetic ingredients. All of them would still change the skin feel or experience of the end product slightly so you might want to consider more than just the emulsifier.  

[jemolian]

It depends on what other accompanying ingredients you use it with, such as if the emulsifier you use contains any other fatty alcohol, your gums, your synthetic thickeners, etc. 

If i use it, i will use 1.5% to 3%. I combine it with an emulsifier and synthetic thickener. Sometimes i don’t use as well as the emulsifier already contain a fatty alcohol. 

[jemolian]

It’s possible if the rest of the ingredients are lesser than the Disodium EDTA. You might want to list the ingredient? 

[jemolian]

Some of the other humectants you can consider would probably be: 

• Sodium PCA
• Pentylene Glycol
• 1,2-Hexanediol
• Propanediol
• Methyl Gluceth-20 or Methyl Gluceth-10
• Glycereth-26

I normally will use 1% to 1.5% Glycerin with 1% to 2% Betaine. It’s only slightly tacky at higher humidity like 70+%. In low humidity, it’s far still alright. 

[jemolian]

Choose the one you want based on your formulation requirements, cost or marketing requirements. 

[jemolian]

@Cafe33 I don’t really follow the ratio actually. I just add the arginine slowly and observe the neutralization which normally happens at around pH 4.2, and then add a little more to get to the pH i want, which is around pH 4.8 to pH 5 or so. 
 
I tried the 4.5:1.0 in the very beginning when testing with Ultrez once to see what will happen, i believe it ended at about pH 9 to pH 10.  

[jemolian]

From the Neutralizing Carbopol and Pemulen in Aqueous and Hydroalcoholic Systems pdf. I use Arginine. 

[jemolian]

Perhaps it’s good to take a look at the constituents, if we were to look at the trends, i believe Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate has been there for years, and on trend ingredients would probably be Centella Asiatica or it’s constituents such as TECA (from Seppic; Asiaticoside (and) Madecassic Acid (and) Asiatic Acid) or Madecassoside. 

[jemolian]

I’ve tested in water: 

• 1% Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) 
• 1% SymDiol 68 (INCI: 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol)
• 1% Euxyl PE 9010 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)

The only warming feeling i felt was from the ones containing Caprylyl Glycol which are Optiphen & SymDiol 68. Perhaps i’m slightly sensitive to Caprylyl Glycol? 

[jemolian]

Using Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) gives me a warm feeling so i no longer use it. I suspect it’s the Caprylyl Glycol.

[jemolian]

I’m not certain what AW means since the image is from a comment from the MakingSkincare (on facebook), there don’t remember one else asking about it when i saved it for reference. We will have to see what the others say. 

Update, it would seem to mean Water Activity: https://books.google.com.sg/books?id=QAC0DQAAQBAJ&pg=PT607&lpg=PT607&dq=aw+%3D+0.8+skin+care&source=bl&ots=4gEgiwtePv&sig=ACfU3U3adq-RJUqo10EHCkWTayV4dCP-Tg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjX8LP_2tTmAhUGWX0KHc_CCNsQ6AEwCnoECAUQAQ#v=onepage&q=aw%20%3D%200.8%20skin%20care&f=false

For the essential oils, i don’t think it’s something that i’d use. But it depends if you want to go for an essential oil free product. Some people have sensitive skin so they may tend to look for something without additional additives like fragrance or essential oils. 

If pH 5 an issue with Carbomer 940? Shouldn’t they start to gel at pH 4.5 or higher?  

[jemolian]

To be honest, i’m not sure how robust the Euxyl PE 9010 is going to be but it still largely depends on the other factors, including the selection of ingredients, chelating agent usage, container, preservative boosters, and other hurdle factors. 

I believe you also has a post on this: 
Normally i’d just purchase my ingredients from China resellers (on Taobao since i have an alipay account and forwarding) in small batches which is about 200 of them out of my 240+?  Though sometimes i’d have my doubt on the authenticity of a few of the ingredients since normally i’d do my patch test with them and they don’t seem to work for my skin but works for my relatives, so it’s just very weird. 

[jemolian]

I use Euxyl PE 9010 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) for my own DIY, i haven’t not put it through testing since it’s just for my own use. If you are concerned about alternative preservatives, it’s best to use a more robust one especially if you are intending to selling it. 

For carbomers, i tent to use Ultrez 10, 20, 21 since they hydrate faster, I’ve not yet used 940 or 980. For Sepimax Zen, it can be slightly tacky i feel, so i don’t use it often. At 0.3% would be it more of a lotion viscosity?  

[jemolian]

I don’t think you will need the Montanov 202 unless you want to change the skin feel aspects. Using normal thickening co-emulsifiers should be able to do a reasonable job. 

One of the combinations i have is by using Lotionpro 165 + Olivem 1000 + Sodium Carbomer to produce a body cream. So it depends on what you really want.

There are blends can promote liquid crystal formation if that’s what you need which you can combine with a normal emulsifier, eg, Oliwax LC (which is sold at lotioncrafter) or DuraQuench (from Croda, which is named as Moisture REG at Makingcosmetics)

[jemolian]

@Zink yes, you can try the 3% Montanov L with 1.5% Aquaxyl & 1.5% Glycerin and see how it goes. If I am going to launch a face/body lotion maybe in the future, it would be the combination I will use and one of the emollients that I mentioned previously. So far my Montanov L formulations are doing alright with Aristoflex AVC as the co-emulsifier. 

[jemolian]

@Joliee there are some available but i’ve not tested them out at the moment since i’m usually using volatile silicones. Not sure how much soaping reduction can natural silicone replacements will be capable of since they seem to be only replacing them for skin feel purposes. 

[jemolian]

It largely depends on how educated the customers are and how you do your marketing for your products / ingredients. With the supposed “no no” ingredients, it depends on how you educate the customers to be able to accept them if required.     

[jemolian]

If there’s already glycerin in your ingredients, you might just want to deduct some percentage of it off the 5% you are using if not it would be too tacky. 

For the soaping, you can add some silicone? Probably about 0.5% to see how it goes. 

For the Panthenol, you can also move it to the cool down phase? Not sure about the Watermelon Extract too?

[jemolian]

@zink, There are a few things that you can consider: 

• Finding more alternative for the Montanov 82, if you are looking into the liquid crystal emulsifiers, you can consider the others from the Montanov series, like Montanov L which i believe they have tested for having the highest TEWL reduction in the series though it would need a co-emulsifier. 
• You can look into moisturizing emollients or emollients that reduces TEWL such as Isononyl Isononanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Sensolene (Ethylhexyl Olivate), etc. For the plant oils, you can use a smaller amount of Grape Seed or Safflower or Jojoba Oil or Squalane
• For the humectants, besides from Pentavitin mentioned previous, perhaps you can consider Betaine (Trimethylglycine) for the skin strengthening effect (see brochure from DuPont), Aquaxyl (from Seppic), etc. You can consider using glycols or diols as well. 
• There are also preservative blends that has hydrating effect as well, such as Symdiol 68.